Precise1

Yup!! B

86.5-92+ are square tooth belts and pulleys that are 60k mile rated while 93+-95 are 105k mile rated. I don't think the early ones are more prone to break, just need more frequent replacement and therefore are more often neglected... Both my 95 frames aren't failing at all. B

x2 That's why the vast majority of semi's are stick shifts, because they tow less or are less reliable... Ever see how a fully loaded semi gets rolling?? They pop the clutch... B

Looks good as long as it is mechanically sound and has no rust (it may not be from Ca). Good luck!! B

Exactly what was said, not to mention it depends what size tires and rims it came with, some clear better than others. Adjust the stops and it should help. B

Congrats Man!! It feels good to do it yourself, doesn't it?? You are welcome, of course. I had questions also when I dove into mine so I'm actually obligated, in my book anyway, to help if I can. Yep, thats probably an accurate estimate of savings and certainly nothing to sneeze at either!! The best part is that now you are set for another 100k miles!! Well, for that part of maintenance anyway... B

That looks really beefy!! I like the tie rod set up also. Your own design?? How is that working out for you?? B

Audi has always liked it's straight 5s. Only thing cooler than that is the Mercedes 5cyl diesel. Pretty much. Yep. Always disliked them and do so even more now that the 3 near my house are basically straight piped. I don't want to hear you (or see you), you pathetic attention whores!! American icon my arse, more like embarassing dinosaur smothered with insecurity or ego. B

Either that or (yes, I'm going to say it) buy an R50 for the wife. They have good road qualities, have the larger engine already and you still have all the support you need here. With just a tune up and Mile Marker hubs, my wife's R50 gets 20-22 mph @ 80mph and that's with 160k miles on it. Worth thinking about... B

Longer engine bays= more material= more weight=longer wheel base=more cost?? B

That about sums up this maroon. Because he had a different use/need than that of a pickup, that makes them all useless?? What a carte blanche idiot. His contraption has a certain 'do it because you can' value, but otherwise... Tell you what, buy a trailer hitch and a car trailer. That way you can unhook it the other 360 days out of the year and just drive a minivan, which seems to suit him just fine. B

LOL There is that too... B

Yes, I believe we are saying the same thing but let me paraphrase and say it differently. Mark on the old belt where pulley punch (clocking) marks are (sounds like they are right being 40/43 teeth) and remove the belt. Match the new belt to the old belt and make identical marks in the identical places. Install the new belt with the marks lining up to the marks on the pulleys like the old one was and you are all set. This method maintains relativity, see? It can only be done when it is known that there is no issues previously, but is a perfectly valid method without finding TDC of cyl #1, etc like you would have to if the belt jumped teeth, broke or whatnot. I wholeheartedly support practical paranoia, especially when it comes to something like this. It took me 2 days to replace my timing belt but then I replaced everything; all seals, hoses, T-stat, water pump, belts, fan clutch, etc. Then I counted teeth and adjusted tension 3-4 times, just to be sure. It is now good to go for the next 100k miles. If you still aren't certain, ask away and I or someone else will answer in kind again. No one will fault you for your caution... B

I'll ship them next week, I promise... It's just been hectic lately. B

The marks you are looking at may be the ones from the cam pully to the crank pully, not cam to cam. Also, the marks are only for install, once the motor is rotated, they no longer line up until x number of revolutions. Assuming the motor ran fine and like you said, the belt has not been removed, this is what I would do. Mark the belt appropriate to the marks on all the pulleys. Count the teeth in between the left to right cams and right cam to crank, and record. (43 and something else, it is listed in this thread. These numbers are the key) Take note of the tensioner position. Remove old belt, watch to see if the cam pulleys move. Don't panic if they do. Mark new belt (if not already marked) and install on the pulleys, aligning marks appropriately. I found left pulley to right to crank was easiest for me. Move the cam pulleys now if necessary as appropriate to align. Tension belt Count teeth between marks to double check. Done!! B

Yep, especially if you have large tires and/or heavy rims, putting them on the roof of a lifted truck does you no favors. I'm reasonably strong and I don't care to hoist spare tires over my head. That said, go check the Members Rides section at the bottom of the main page. There are plenty of people with baskets... B

Ok, just got this from RockAuto's web site. ACDELCO Part # 86726 washer pump: $20.79 HONDA PASSPORT DX (1994 - 1996) HONDA PASSPORT EX (1994 - 1997) HONDA PASSPORT LX (1994 - 1997) ISUZU RODEO (1991 - 1997) NISSAN 240SX (1989 - 1993) NISSAN 240SX LE (1991 - 1992) NISSAN 240SX SE (1989 - 1993) NISSAN 300ZX (1984 - 1989) NISSAN 300ZX 2+2 (1984 - 1989) NISSAN 720 PICKUP 1986 NISSAN D21 PICKUP (1986 - 1994) NISSAN D21 PICKUP SE (1991 - 1994) NISSAN D21 PICKUP XE 1994 NISSAN PATHFINDER (1987 - 1992) NISSAN PATHFINDER LE (1994 - 1995) NISSAN PATHFINDER SE (1990 - 1995) NISSAN PATHFINDER XE (1990 - 1995) NISSAN PICKUP (1995 - 1996) NISSAN PICKUP KING CAB XE-V6 1996 NISSAN PICKUP SE (1995 - 1996) NISSAN PICKUP SHORT BED XE (1995 - 1996) NISSAN PICKUP XE (1995 - 1996) Please refer to catalog for application details. I looked at the set I have out, and while the motor appears the same, the wiring connectors and intake/outlet ports on the bottom are quite different so I don't know what the hell they are talking aboot. The one pictured looks like it is the bottom (front) pump. B

You are welcome but you actually went farther with it than I did. No pictures though?? Thanks for the written description though. I considered disassembling it all the way but the only way I could see to do that is bend back the 3(?) metal tabs that that crimp onto the plastic impeller housing and I was afraid of breaking something. Is this what you did?? No problems?? B

No one I know of has done this, mainly for the reason you stated I'd guess. That and the fact that you don't change the oil often and the shifter isn't hard to remove... B

Ok, fair enough. You obviously have all the information and far more knowledge of the auto trannys than I do (I have none). Just wanted to offer. Have you considered installing a shift kit?? Good luck with everything. B

Seen it earlier?? Hell, you got it within 28 minutes... Reply much sooner and you'll be psychic!! Yeah, I know... I hate to disappoint, but the bumper hasn't been removed yet and I'm house hunting like mad so I really can't say when it will happen. I do have 2 sets of lights and a winch to mount so it will happen asap?? B

Same as 30 miles away, I'm guessing... Thorley has done limited runs as long as I have had a Pathfinder. Some people get them in 2 weeks like me, and others wait 6 months. I got the Throleys here. http://www.rocky-road.com/ They were drop shipped direct from Thorley, so have the sales rep call check if there are any in stock. I went with a CARB legal magnaflow high flow cat and a Flowmaster Delta60 IIRC. Should all be smog legal, I'll find out here in a month or so. B

Where in NorCal are you?? I have the repair manual for the auto tranny if you want to borrow it to try to fully isolate what the problem parts are... B

Is it the 1/2" square drive pipe thread type 'set screw' plug? If so, they have a tendancy to be a biatch to loosen. Don't mess around with it, go straight to the breaker bar, that's what I had to use to get it to budge and remember, righty tighty-leftie loosie... Also when assembling, give it one wrap of teflon tape but do not overlap the first thread or two so nothing is hanging inside the case. You won't have to torque it too much to seal it and it will come loose a lot easier next time. B

Hey Bud, I'm just over the hill from you in Santa Rosa!! Ok, first off, SEARCH!!! Now that we have that covered, cams are good, headers are good but cams and headers are better. Thorley resumed production of the WD21 headers, I have a set that I put on about a year ago and they fit/work quite well. Pace Setters are another option but are generally considered lower quality, painted not coated and there are mixed reviews of installment issues. They are also quite a bit cheaper... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27455 Also, the cams may be an issue if you have to smog the vehicle and unless you have the ECU reprogrammed, you wont get much more out of one than a stage 1, or 1 step up from stock so no point going further. B