Precise1

Yep, most people do. B

IMHO the 'thinner and more prone to warping' mentality is a joke fostered by those who don't work metal or do math. If a rotor is 20 mm thick and you remove .2mm to straighten it, you just removed 1% of the material. Ok, you do it to both sides and it's 2%. Big whoopie, that is only 2% of the contact surface, not the entire mass of the rotor so it matters even less. Even more so, the warping may come from stress relief from prolonged heating and the rotor will actually be more stable once remachined true again. Generally speaking, if you are warping rotors it is due to one or a combination of the following factors: poorly designed or inadequate braking system for the vehicle, poor quality rotors, faulty braking system (frozen calipers, air in the lines, etc) or poor driving/braking habits. New rotors are not necessarily better rotors and warped rotors are not necessarily the rotors fault. This may give a layman's insight... http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/80045/undercover_putting_brake_rotors_under_the_microscope.aspx In my experience, a chattering clutch usually occurs from contaminates on the contact surfaces or problems with the pressure/pressure plate. B Sorry to thread jack Unccp, but it is somewhat related. Right?

Just out of curiosity, what is wrong with a refaced flywheel?? Is it the same mentality some people have about turning rotors?? As a machinist, I don't see the problem, but I'm not a ME... B

*warms up comment generator* B

Automatic tranny?? Reverse failure is generally the first sign of problems/damage but I am not used to hearing about shaking either. Does it do the same thing on the flat VS incline?? B

No worries, I hear what you are saying and needed the reminder. Yeah, I get a bit frustrated with people who expect everything to be repeated just for them when it can probably be found with a little perseverance. Thanks for calling me on it. Sorry Nismojunky, that wasn't the best approach and I probably would have done better by just passing it by entirely. That said, I have a lot of things going on right now and have been snapping at people lately. Perhaps it is time for me to take another break from the forums... B

Yeah, you are right, I never help at all... Yeah, the search engine is pretty funky, but I find things with it daily. Sorry if you don't want to waste time, but you want other to do the same?? I'm not crapping on you specifically, but pointing out that the info is here and can be found without too much trouble most of the time. That said, have you downloaded your FSM yet?? B

No, you are the first person to do this. Please take pictures, notes and do a full write up. Now that I have your attention, please search. B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23072&st=0&p=411924&hl=cooler&fromsearch=1entry411924 There is more info that you can dig up if you search but it is pretty straight forward... B

Accurized... B

Don't you have an Xterra forum to go to?? B

Also, an old dune buggy trick is to keep a can of WD-40 handy. When the engine stutters or drowns out due to wet ignition components, just give it a few strategic shots of the stuff and drive off... B

LOL No, most of the stuff I have at home is cheap crap, intended for 'garage work'; the good stuff stays at work. I did use a pitman arm puller, but not the same quality/design you have. I seriously tried everything (heat, penetrating oil, shock, puller, etc) and then just gave up. I honestly think I'd rather just drill it out on the truck rather than pay $50-60 (IIRC) on a tool I will only use a few times in my life max. <--- Cheap Bastage... B

Cool, that was probably one of the cheapest (and strangest) tranny fixes I have heard of. The best place for a tranny cooler is in front of the radiator and condensor. B

As a machinist, no. But I can see how it could work fine too. Unccp, and JamesRich even more, are correct about the proper 5/8 end mill in a mill approach. I simply said drill as that is what most people understand. Hell, I have the drill, end mill, boring head, reamer and mill in the garage to use if I could have just gotten the damn arm off!! I hand drilled out mine with a 1/2 stub drill, then 5/8 and did a good enough job that it seems to be fine. Your idea is great in a "git-r-dun" manner and is not a bad thing other than having to drill from both sides which compounds alignment issues and is not a good recommendation to someone without experience. TWENTY LASHES!!! B

There are a few threads here that go into head removal but they have to be dug up. I know there was a discussion in one about reusing the head bolts or not; sorry, I can't recall the answer but it is worth considering... B

Correct, even Cragar website shows the closest one is 3427160 with 4" backspacing. http://www.cragar.com/ProductView.aspx?id=1158&bq=%3fc%3d15 You have to go here and special order them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-3427160-SPEC/ That is as close as you are going to get. Quite frankly, if .25" of backspacing is a make or break if you can use the rims, you are cutting it too close in the first place... B

Exactly. It is some specialty 600+ BHP car... B

It is not especially hard, just a lot of work. You will need some tall jackstands to lift the entire truck high, a tranny jack to deal with the monster and a decent place to work, hopefully indoors. Then there is the normal assortments of wrenches, sockets, extensions and curses. Go to the Garage section, pinned near the top is a thread on where to download your free Factory Service Manual which will tell you all you need to know. 1994 is the earliest year, but it will work for you for everything other than interior and some trim. Also, there are threads on auto tranny diagnostics (as well as in the FSM) so look them up and try to figure out what is going on before you tear into it. I don't recall where they are off hand, maybe in the Garage/How To section. Yes, if the truck is in good condition it is definitely worth repairing... B

Search for a write up by MY1PATH, he made a psudo snorkel that is hidden inside the fender and the intake is up by the firewall. It should be quite effective... B

Ok, what I have heard is that when reverse fails, it is due to lack of fluid pressure since it requires the most. It is the classic failure mode for pathfinders and may be caused by the stock radiator cooler clogging and the tranny overheating/starving. If the radiator cooler is not (replaced or)* bypassed, it will happen again. *cheaper to bypass Moving on, did you mention any bearings being replaced? Are you certain it is coming from the tranny or could it be other drive train parts or rotational components?? I've been fooled by signs before... B

True, but I was feeling generous... Crap, I went out last night with a flashlight and tape measure, but never posted. The forward most bolts are 6" or 150mm for a 2" lift, using all the stock washers and isolators + the 2" (50mm) puck with no more than 20mm thread protruding. I installed the bolt upwards with the head on the bottom so it could never contact from below and there is no issue of clearance or interference above. Want a picture?? B

Finally!!! B

Don't feel bad, many people have struggled with the starters, here is the proof. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1754&st=0&p=13670&hl=%20starter%20removal&fromsearch=1entry13670 This is in the Garage/How To section... B