Precise1

Arkansas has a population of 2,673,400 people and an area of 53,178.62 miles for a population density of 50.27 people per square mile. California has a population of 33,871,648 people and an area of 163,695.57 miles for a population density of 206.92 people per square mile. Big difference there!! What I did not say was that not ALL of California is under smog laws, only the major cities and urban areas which have a certain population density and size. I live 50 miles north of San Francisco and have to smog check my vehicles. Another 50 north and there is no smog checking. While is does cost $ and can be inconvenient, I'm actually quite glad for it. If 10% of the population were to go Redneck on their cat/exhaust/intake system with a hacksaw to get more performance or generally neglect the vehicle until it barely runs, I really don't think I would want to live here anymore... Back to the blower though. If I was in a non smog area, I seriously think I would buy that and a VG33, put them together with moderate cams and a Jim Wolf ECU, drop it in my WD21 with the Thorley headers, Magnaflow cat and custom Flowmaster exhaust. That should set me up with what, a 250hp WD21 minumum. 270-280hp maybe?? There wouldn't be a Mall that could stop me!!! Seriously though. You could do everything under $4k and it would be awesome!! B

Basically anything you bolt on/change must be CARB (California Air Resource Board) approved. I doubt a SC onm a pathy is approved. There are some loop holes, but for major mods you had better know exactly what you need to do/have to be legal or you'll never get it registered. 1975 or earlier is smog exempt so that's what the hot rodders use as a base. It sucks some times, but the fringe benefit is having breathable air so I don't cry too loud. B

DO you think the smog referee will notice that sticking out of the hood?? Oh well, I'm out... B

This is why it won't budge. Take the two locking screws out and it will come right loose with a few light taps, unless it is rusted in place... B

You bought a Honda with low pro slicks on it?? Sure thing Kyle... B

Yes. B

X2 Classic symptom.... You can try giving it a shot of WD-40 to see if displacing any water helps. B

No, you silly hillbilly, it's fine the first time!! Don't thank me, thank Derek, the Nissan/Infinity Mastermechanic who did the write up... Seriously, a lot of (us including me) have used it as a definitive guide. It's not too hard if you have a little experience and common sense and only requires a few tricks or special tools. The biggest thing is that if you think you have screwed something up or have a problem, STOP AND READ/ASK. We will help... Good Luck!! B

Yes, there are only a few minor differences and those are even noted in the write up. The VG33 is the VG30's older brother... B

They are all just a bunch of posers. In 15 years and 3 different Nissan trucks, I have NEVER had one over heat EVER, even in Baja Mexico in July. Two possible benefits is slight HP increase (1?? 2?? 3?? ) and deep water crossings so you can shut it off to avoid spashing water and cracking fan blades. BUT this is only if you have it set up to a kill switc; I suspect many kits just wire them in for automatic function only. B

I believe the point is yes, they do. Just like strut tower braces, those don't look like they move either... Just a guess, I haven't crawled under the vehicle yet to examine it. Makes sense though and it seems pretty damn easy to make. B

Thank you, I was looking for my hammer... B

The core of the problem!! If both wheels spin at the same rate, the car can't turn correctly, it has to slip. If one wheel slips while cornering with poor traction while accelerating, they will generally both start to slip together. You now have a rear axle that is sliding not rolling. Add steering in the other axle/end of the vehicle and the slide can go any direction, although is sometimes steerable... B

Limited Slip Differential is exactly that. It has clutch plates that bind up under load, until a certain point where there is enough torque to overcome the clutch friction and even then it will be a progressive slip. This is a good explanation... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm B

^ Pretty much, but it usually happens when accelerating and cornering or accelerating on an off camber, slick surface. My 1 good spin was a left hand turn at a traffic light. Thankfully, it was a large intersection so I just looked like an idiot but didn't contact anyone/anything. Since then I have learned to moderate the throttle and let up the moment it acts like it may slip. B

You'll be lucky to get 200 of those, the vast majority are inactive or only log in when they have a problem/question. B

No big difference in lifts and the 4x4parts.com one has everything you need including completely useless bumper relocation brackets... B

Yes, they are talking about the O2 sensor. The cylinder is what the piston rides in, with a fuel injector, spark plugs and valves above it. You know, the bang chamber... Maybe and possibly. Don't worry about that right now, as I said above. Fix the misfire first... Here is probably the best place to start and what to look for/replace, quoted out of the above text. You need to go through and inspect/test/replace the items on this list first, odds are your problem is one of them... B

It's all in the labor, you have to remove the T-bars and crossmembers (frame and exhaust). I've never seen a clutch kit that cheap!! I went with OEM and replaced everything incl the fly wheel and paid around $350 for everything, including brake cleaner, hydraulic fluid, etc. No need to sell it, just do it yourself... B

Clutch can cost $800-$1500 depending on labor costs and how much is replaced. It isn't terribly hard, just time consuming and you usually need an alignment afterwards. The tranny can just be scooted back and the clutch disk/pressure plate put in, all the way to completely removing the tranny, resurfacing the flywheel, replacing the rear main seal and throw out bearing, etc. It pretty much depends on the condition of things, how long you plan to keep the vehicle and how much you believe in PM. I prefer to be thorough with something like this as I don't consider pulling the tranny a casual afternoon job... PS if you do it yourself, you can replace everything for about $300-400 in parts/supplies B

Good point, a tranny cooler is not price drop material... It's almost worth getting one on the west coast and driving it back. You have experience with that, no?? B

X2 to what Kingman said. 87 octane is all that's needed. At least inspect the tune up related items and timing to make sure there isn't anything obviously troublesome. The knock sensor code can be triggered by other things, more of a symptom sometimes as 5523Pathfinder said... B

I'm going to scoot this over to the R50 section where it will get maximum exposure (and keep our filing system straight)... B

I can't help with any time estimates but I will say that you probably only have to tighten the valve covers back down (I've only had to replace them on aircooled engines) and you forgot installing a tranny cooler (required IMO). Make sure to pay attention to the front end when you drive it, that can get a bit pricey when you start replacing things when it is more than a tie rod... Nice gift BTW!! B

Nothing like that on the wife's 99.0... B