Precise1

I doubt you will get a straight answer to that, but Vsicks put one in his Terrano along with a SAS (truck engine though) and wheeled it pretty hard so, yeah, it should work. I understand that WD21 drive train (other than the front end) can handle a lot more than the power it gets from the 3.0. I'm pipe dreaming about the VG33 swap myself, especially with my headers, custom exhaust and the intake that I plan to do should make the most of it and still be smog legal... B

Several people have done it. It is not hard but it is a lot of work and there are enough little things that it is best done with a good donor vehicle handy. $1100 may not be much more expensive, but it is a lot less work. Will the rebuild come with a warranty?? Do you trust this guy and his work? Does he know Nissans, they are hard to rebuild I have heard. Not trying to talk you out of it, just making sure you have thought it out. If you have it rebuilt, do you want them to install a shift kit?? B

Yes, good point. I noted that in the first post and will provide the link for it here. Thanks for the heads up!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5446&view=findpost&p=49954 B

The rubber lines will almost vulcanize themselves to the filter over time so either lever/pry the ends back off (do it around the entire 360 degrees) or sometimes grabbing the hose with pliers and rotating it radially will work. Worst case, you just cut it off. As for gas running out of the lines, simply wrap the rubber line with a rag and clamp it lightly with a pair of vice grips (needle nose are best, I always have 2 just for this reason) and voila, no gas spilling other than what is in the filter. B

And the bonus is that now you can set up a loo on your roof rack... JK Bud!! Are there any threaded holes under the trim you can tie off to?? If not, you'll have to put screws into the sheet metal. I've seen stand off clamps for securing piping along a wall in hardware isles, so that may be an easy way to go. B

Really? Source?? B

Before you junk it or part it out, download the Factory Service Manual (found pinned in the Garage section) and go through the AT diagnostic section. Hopefully it will help you get a better idea of what is going on. B

The leak could be on the low pressure side, Nunya. Honestly, I'd wipe things down along the reservoir, pump, lines and box as much as is reasonable and refill it in order to try to find the leak before determining how to fix it. Stop-Leak is not always worth trying... B

Misalignment, improper engagement or wrong mating threads. I have made threads for a living and I still get suprised sometimes... B

No, mainly because grade 8 is standard specs, not metric. You would probably want to use at least grade 10.9 or maybe 12.9; grade 8 falls in between, closer to 12.9 IIRC. 'Brittle' is too vague as shear strength is in play as well as more tension load so actual bolt specs are the way to go, not ballparks. I haven't looked into it yet, but see if you can find the specs on the stock bolts (and remember how long they lasted) and then it is easy to spec out the 'new and improved' bolt. Seriously, try to find the info and let us know either way, I'll help if you need it. I'd love (and several others) to change to other bolts before this happened, it's worth investigation and pinning. B

Stuck on the length issue again?? Dude, I was looking at the big picture in answering his question. He may have inadvertently put in superior longer bolts. FYI I just checked there are no markings on the UCA bolts so I'll have to figure it out some other way. B

Interesting. Need more pictures before I'll judge. I think it will either be popular or a flop, nothing inbetween. I could see people liking the idea though... B

Is the power steering pump working?? Is there sufficient fluid?? B

Are you saying it cools much better?? How about a few pictures?? B

Actually, it very well could have. What grade bolts did you use and what grade are stock?? If you went with a higher grade, less chance of snapping them... I'm going to have to try to figure out the stock bolt grade now. B

Most of these things can contribute to black smoke (too much fuel) but I always advise to check the ECU for stored fault codes first. It doesn't always help but it is a free and easy first step. The directions are in the Garage/How To section. B

So the fuel gauge registers the same level?? If so, that makes me wonder about the sender unit. Nothing at all out of the tach, eh?? It 'came back to life' in my parts truck but either that was a fluke or it didn't like being shipped (I tried to pack them as good as possible). Barring other things, leave it in for a bit and see if it ever registers. Other than that, I can't help you much more... B

Automatic trannys want the fluid level at a specific amount, too much and too little does not do it any good. What condition is the fluid in, pink and clean? When is the last time the tranny was serviced? Removing the pan, replacing the filter, having it backflushed and all the fluid replaced may help and it may not if there has been sufficient damage done already. It also won't address if the stock cooler in the tranny is clogged. I am positive that driving it around in it's current condition only guarentees complete failure. B

Is that the dealership behind you in your avatar?? Sorry bud, I left the tank behind but I could have gotten 3-4 of them yesterday... B

Something needs to be purchased or fabbed up. If you have a decent local fab shop, they could set you up no problem. B

There is a seal on the bottom and a 45* for it to seat against. The right size o-ring would work fine also. B

Did you break the bolts or strip out the threads?? There has been some input about insufficient thread engagement with some aftermarket UCAs, especially if a lot of shimming is required. Longer bolts are recommended, +5mm IIRC. I believe it was MY1PATH who went into depth about this? Sorry it happened, that sucks. B

Well, the bit says #1, but it was the 4th of that size that I tried, since different manufacturers don't even come close to the same size with blunt tip diameters, flute depths and fin angles. Here is a picture of a dime to make you feel rich happy... B

My answer is yes without even looking, but let me qualify that. The new tire size (245/70/17) simply means the width is the same (245mm or 9.65") but the side wall is taller (70% of the width instead of the original 65%) which is more desirable for an 'offroad' tire due to the larger sidewall approaching 'high flotation' effect tire sizes like 31x10.5x15". You won't find many low profile 'off road' tires. Here is a break down... Original tire Sidewall: 6.27 in Radius: 14.77 in Diameter: 29.54 in Circumf: 92.80 in Revs/mile: 682.75 New Tire Sidewall: 6.75 in Radius: 15.25 in Diameter: 30.50 in Circumf: 95.83 in Revs/mile: 661.16 Conversely, you could run a 235/70/15 as the diameter would be closer to stock... Original tire Sidewall: 6.27 in Radius: 14.77 in Diameter: 29.54 in Circumf: 92.80 in Revs/mile: 682.75 New Tire Sidewall: 6.48 in Radius: 14.98 in Diameter: 29.95 in Circumf: 94.10 in Revs/mile: 673.33 Be aware though that theoretical tire size and actual sizes are different since they vary from the manufacturer by easily 1/2 an inch to as much as an inch for 'identical' sizes. Don't worry though since you (or your pathy) probably won't notice any tire size difference in this range anyway. Find a tire you like/want in a size that is close to stock (you can probably go larger if that suits you, but not what you asked) and call it good. B

I don't know the R50s well at all so I recommend going to the Garage section and checking towards the top for the thread of where to download the FSM. That's going to be your best diagnostic tool available. I'm assuming you have the auto tranny? Why do you think you damaged the ABS or Speed sensor?? Have you filled the reservoir or bled the brakes?? B