Precise1

You may have to drop the cross member to have clearance to get the mount clear of the studs in the bottom of the tranny. Is that the cross member that has the T-bar anchors in it? I can't recall, but it shouldn't be an issue. Pretty straight forward, just a jack or two and a few bolts... B

Semi-gloss... Gloss is fine, all the other parts are shiney too. Thank you!! I fed you, sheltered you, worked on your truck and gave you parts and this is the thanks I get you bastage?? Do not mistake me for Nunya again!! B

Ok, remove the defective unit and tap the metal housing moderately a few times against a solid metal object. FYI, the top pump is for the rear, the bottom/harder to get to one is for the front. Plug in the connector and test it for function by holding it in your hand and activating the switch. It will either function normally, not function but clunk internally ever so slightly (this is why you are holding it in your hand, so you can feel it) or do nothing what so ever. If the results are the last two, try this. Remove the 3 screws in the end of the impeller housing and remove the end cap. You will need the EXACT size philip driver!! I had the pump in a vice and used a right angle ratcheting hex bit driver and went through 4 bits before I found the right one. The impeller just slips over the motor's output D shaft. Try turning the impellor by hand. It's frozen, isn't it?? With some precision needle nose pliers, grasp the D shaft and try to turn it. If you aren't careful or the D shaft refuses to turn and you bugger it up, throw it away, the motor is seized. If it turns a little, keep rotating it one way and another and it will loosen up some. Put the impeller on and use it to spin the shaft a bit more. Remove the impeller, plug the motor in and actuate the switch. It's spinning, isn't it?? Clean, reassemble and reinstall. There is a seal around the shaft and it may be getting tired, allowing moisture into the motor and freezing it up or it may just be age. Just thought this might help people who's pump 'doesn't work', just like the junk yard item I picked up today. A little messing with it and it runs like a champ now... BTW, I grabbed the two motors today because a few people had been asking me for them in my part out thread. Anyone want to buy a set of tested/working washer motors? check out the parts for sale section. B BTW, the motor/end cap orientation depicted above is correct for assembly. If you are looking at the bottom of the assembly with the electrical connector pointing up, the fluid input pipe should point to the right. I almost goofed that...

Quite frankly, I don't think $2k is too much, but prices are higher out here. $2k isn't much for a vehicle that is in good shape, as that one appears to be by the photos. Watch out for the rust as was said, under the rear seat, the rear frame mainly (bring a hammer to tap with) and rockers/fenders. If is it a problem, there will be holes. The 2 reasons I wouldn't buy it is you haven't done a rust inspection and it isn't 4x4. Yes, you say street only, but you are in NY and I can't imagine 4x4 isn't useful in the winter. I understand the sentimental part, I bought a second 95 to fix up and have done most of what I wanted to. I'm into the vehicle for 2x what it is 'worth' but it is worth it to me and I plan to drive it for the next decade, not resell it. I'm still WAY less than what a new, comparable vehicle would cost. My advice is to be patient and look around for something closer to home that you can really check out before the purchase. B

Uh, sure, black would be great if it is no problem just so I'm not flying Calmini colors... If not, I can sand blast it myself and rattle can it. B

You have a welder and know how to weld. I'm a machinist and don't feel like cutting it out of one piece. I really need to learn how to weld... B

Now aren't you glad you did the write up?? B

I might be interested in that. Don't know if I will do the steering box mod and I have the bushings to rebuild my idler arm anyway. B

LOL, greasing a friction drive surface!! I second the glazed pulleys. If everything else is proper, all a belt needs is proper tensioning.

Thanks Rob, that's exactly what I needed to know. Too bad it slims down the chance of finding the right ones. Yes, I have heard it advised to replace the o-rings but thanks for the reminder!! B

Yep. Here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27313&view=findpost&p=508166 B

Sorry, but I just had to laugh about this. Good advice, but for one detail. He is in SoCal where rust is a mythical creature... B

Well, either it gave up the ghost or I convinced it to fail. The resistance call out of the injectors is 10-14 ohms @ 75 degrees. I checked injectors 1 & 3 and got 34 ohms and 12 ohms. I started the vehicle (it ran rough), let it warm up,then sit for 10 minutes for everything to heat up and rechecked the injectors. Infinite resistance on injector #1 and 14 ohms for #3. For kicks I checked the wiring harness for proper voltage and no problems there. The good news is that all vehicles with the NA VG33 use the same injectors so that gives you a pick of earlier R50s, some Fronties and Xterras to scavenge from. The local PickNPull has a fresh 98 pathy and older 00 Xterra that will get a visit from me Saturday. I have a question aboput injectors though, I see talk about blue or black marks or stripes in the description. I wasn't looking for this but didn't see anything like that; they are Nunya injectors, a lovely shade of pink. I'll look again when I get home. Are these colors not to be mixed and matched for some reason? Is there some significant difference? Thanks, B

$240 for e brake cables?? WTF!!!! That is INSANE!! B

Yes, a spring base is almost required if you put it on the roof. As for the CB location, I plan to put mine on the back of the center console near the top and angled forward. Should be well out of the way for the passenger area, not cluttering the dash and easily accessable by any seat. B

That definitely doesn't look right, so I'll buy your your truck for parts, say $800?? B

They are discontinued so jump on one if you find it. Speaking of which, there are a Craigslist add posted in the Classified section just the other day. Congrats on the second pathy, I've done the same thing... B

I just picked up an OEM clutch for about $100 IIRC, worked fine for the 25k miles I drove that truck. Call Alkorahil (Rob Lacy, info in the Classified/Services section) to get a price on a factory unit. B

My appologies, you are absolutely correct. We are talking about the front splined socket, correct? I could not remove my bars from them until I had loosened it up, the splines were binding. I never considered pulling the bars out the front, it seemed like there was mor room in the center of the truck. Did you want to add this to the How To thread?? B

Every situation is different. Type of mud, depth, lead in, lead out, tire size and quality, how many people have winches... B

Ditto. I just replaced this on someones truck since it was on the way out. Check all you hoses and EGR for vacuum leaks and clean the MAF (write up in the How To section) B

There are two cooler types. Tube and fin, and plate style. Tube and fin can not clog due to just being a bent tube, but they are not as efficient as the plate style. I have not seen the interior of the plate style but I have never heard of one clogging. I think this is due to multiple passages. Did you look in the factory service manual that you can download? I do know that some of the hoses are tucked under/behind the intake and there are others like the bypass hose that can not be accessed without removing covers... B

Yes, I had to loosen the nuts on the torque arm in order to remove them. I believe this is mentioned in the How To thread, but thanks for bringing it up. B

Some gear oil is LSD friendly, it will say so on the bottle. If it does not say so, then use an additive also. No, you have an open front diff, I have never heard of a front LSD unit. B

Good work!! I have heard of problems with those connections, but I never thought it would be a turn related issue. I'm glad you worked it out and thanks for posting the solution. B