Precise1

Oh, man!! The cat is supposed to be in line after the cross over Y pipe. Maybe you could get it there with some bits of string or something... B

I didn't realize that you were going to a suspended cone filter. I thought that you were going to the hard mounted stock air box and I think the engine moves too much to have a hard tube inbetween the two. Yes, a simple metal tube would work if you plumb it correctly. You may not get the same performance of a 'tuned' intake though. B

I dont know, it just came out... Good How To guide, but I'll stick with my time tested method of not buggaring up the threads in the first place. I might need to pass this info to my brother-in-law. He pulls, cleans and regaps his spark plugs in his Mazda Speed 3 about once a month. B

Agreed, but the fan clutches can fail in the lax direction, they dont tighten up enough to cool at idle/slow speeds. I don't know the brands as I haven't needed any, but it is not uncommon at all. Someone else will advise or simply go to the local auto parts store and ask. B

Ya, I have a knurled aluminum handle with rubber flex line and a spark plug boot at the end. It's a tool used by VW/Porsche people for aboot 30 years. For the Nissans I always just used a good spark plug socket and an extension; I never considered digging out the 'special' tool. B

Not so fast. Exactly. Yes, Alkorahil can do that now... Give him a try with anything you might need to order from a dealership, Earl, and see how the prices add up... B

LOL I thought I had answered this one... Both of mine do/did this somewhat, but the red one more because of the fubared front end. The hinges have no lateral rigidity. The hood rests on two rubber stops and is latched down in the center. There is nothing to prevent lateral shift or vibration. It can be caused by front end alignment, universal joints or maybe even tires motor mounts. Ignore it, the only time you have to worry about the hood is when it unlatches while you are driving on the freeway. B

I missed this somehow. The spark plugs are steel, the heads are aluminum. If you buggered the threads on the spark plug, you probably made a mess of the head as well. I think you need experienced help to try to salvage this. Can you ask the mutant hobbit Mr 510 to look?? Any experienced neighbors or relatives around?? B

Ok, when you start a spark plug, especially when it is one you can't see, you have the spark plug in the socket with an extension on it and you start them by hand. You can not cross thread a hole if you do it by hand. Now, when you put the spark plug socket or tool in the old plug, did you stop and notice the angle the tool or extension was at to you could match it for reinstallation? First, look back at the spark plug hole with a mirror and flashlight (shine the flashlight into the mirror) and verify that the hole and seat is clean. Do yuo see any thread shavings? Try to vacuum it out (adapt a rubber line to your shop vac) Refer to the first sentence. From the front of the truck (best angle for me), the plug tool should be amost vertical, the bottom maybe 5 degrees to your right? The bottom should be maybe 10 degrees towards you?? Make sure you are in the hole properly with the mirror and flashlight then proceed to hand tighten while slowly wiggling to tool about 1/2" all directions until you feel the threads catch. You should get at least 3 full rotations before you use a wrench. This should work for you if you haven't fuggered the threaded hole yet. DO NOT RUSH. BE PATIENT. TAKE A PEE FIRST. HAVE A CIGARETTE. TAKE YOUR TIME. If you fugger this, you WILL be sorry. B

Damn, I though you had been answered. I'll be home within 4 hours and should have my tow hook sitting on a shelf, waiting for the bolts to be measured. I'll do it then... B

Well, 3/4 is too hot unless you have a malfunctioning temp gauge. The new radiator, T-stat and cap is a good idea but it seems like you are right on the hairyedge of the cooling system efficiency if the AC can push it that much farther (remember that the AC condensor is in front of the radiator so it will heat up the air pre-radiator). Could you have any scale or corrosion in your water channels? Perhaps a cooling system chemical flush would help?? The fan clutch would only make a difference at idle/slow speeds. If you have not gone to the Garage section and downloaded the FSM for your year, do so (hint, pinned at the top) and check how to trouble shoot the sensor. Hopefully there is a resistance spec. Also do you have any thermometer, either from a multimeter, meat thermometer or anything thay you could get an actual temperature reading of the coolant?? B

Replace them, it may well just be that they have been compromised in, oh, 18 years and 248k miles... While you are at it, clean all electrical contacts, meaning battery terminals, ground to the chassis and motor, power to the starter, etc. B

First off, no worries... Yes, and you are referring to the Trail Master lift kit. They have been discontinued, so best buy up soon if they are still available. B

Yes, exactly. Actually, they will line up again after some unknown number of revolutions but more than you want to do by hand. Don't feel bad, that confused me a bit at first as well. B

Condensation in the gas tank?? Silverton pretty much covered it...

Clean the MAF (can't hurt, procedure in the Garage How To section) and check the resistance of the O2 sensor. Should be 1-1000 ohms IIRC (values listed in a pinned thread in the Garage section) and also go into the Garage section and download the FSM for your year (pinned at the top) there may be additional steps in it. You could also have a stuck or leaky injector, but that should throw a code so lets start with the basics first. B

That's his happy face!! Maybe he is thinking "WTF did you do to my truck!?!" Yes Earl, exactly what JJ said. Pictures of what is normally covered, which really is everything. Seriously, just go snap happy with the camera, I'll happily spend the time sorting through them for what is useful. Thank you, it is greatly appreciated!! B

Because that probably won't work well... Ok, here is all the intake information. Let's start with Mr MAF... The air box side in proper orientation. The thru hole is 3.135" (79.6mm ) in diameter, this is measuring the ID of the snap ring that holds the screen in place. The bolt holes are not symmetrical. 2.95" (75mm) horizontal and 3.39" (86.2mm) vertical to hole centers, with the hole diameters measuring .275" (7mm). The side of Mr MAF towards the motor. The OD lip for the connecting hose is 2.570" (65.3mm) and about 1" (25mm) wide. The ID of the MAF is 1.97" (50mm) and tapers outward to 2.38" (60.5mm) The flex hose is a total of 9.25" (235mm) long with about 7.25" (184mm) between openings. The manifold intake has an OD of 2.755" (70mm) with a 2.82" (71.6mm) lip on the edge. The mouth of the opening is 2.58" (65.5mm) tapering down to 2.125" (54mm) thru bore at the butterfly. I think that about covers everything. From this information, I suspect that a 2.5" ID snorkel would be sufficient and I will probably go with this size coupled with the Spectre Performance air filter MY1PATH posted. On a side note, look at all the engine bay real estate you have when the washer fluid bottle, evap filter and air box (and bracketry) is removed!! B

And that is a good link for those without fab resources. If it was CARB legal, I'd consider having it down stream of my snorkel. Unfortunately CARB tremendously limits what I can do... B

You can steal the red one in the driveway, but if you touch the champagne one you are going to lose a hand... Besides, the ARB bolts to the frame and won't go with the body... B

Then when you are bored and have the shop to play in, take an arvo and slide the tranny back to see what you can... B

Like JJ said... Look at the bright side, someone is going to fix the pathy (just not for you. You did point him to NPORA, right?), you get some wheels to keep life going and can buy a better Pathy down the road. Just remember, there may be some good ones to the south, but out here in the west they are like rust free cockroaches... B

This. I couldn't pull my T-bars until I did this. The splines should be completely in the socket with little or nothing of them showing from a side view. I think I understand what you are saying about something being bent, but that is a lot and an easy answer. (doesn't trust easy answers) Measure from the T-bar socket face to the front or back of the T-bar anchor member (both sides) and one of us without that issue can do the same to compare #s. B

HAHAHA!! Well done!! Those are the best pictures I have seen in a long time!! Can I ask a favor to take advantage of this? Please take a lot of pictures of the motor/chassis/suspension/running gear from all angles and various magnifications?? Some of the under carriage of the body also?? Burn them to a CD, and mail them to me so I can select some to be hosted here... It's not often that we see a divorced body/chassis and good photos would be perfect for explaining repairs and such. Please?? I'll obviously pay for your time, the CD, shipping, whatever... B

Hey now, Toyotas are perfectly acceptable as back up vehicles. The wife and I have one to use if one of the Pathfinders need work or is being modded... B