Precise1

If the power valve check out and he sells you everything needed to run the motor, including the wiring, ecu, sensors, etc then it is worth $1k easy. You probably want to find an upgraded tranny also unless you have a manual... B

Sweet!! I drove a 1984 D720 4x4KingCab for ten years, and would buy another one in good condition. I didn't have the room, $ or forum to fix up the old one, but I'd sure as hell fix one up now as the 'farm truck'!! The Z24 motor is a champ, but quite weak. If you can get another 20% out of it, it would be viable. I wasn't in the position to try at the time... B

I had the same thing happen to me, but when I was driving up a steep, rough road. I limped it 10 miles home on the back roads and discovered that one of the tranny connector wires had fallen against the header flange (recently installed), melted throught the insulation and grounded out. I sealed and rerouted the wire, replaced a fuse and the tranny operates fine ever since. I'll try to verify if it was the same fuse, but I bet it is. It might be a 'first thing to check' if your tranny goes into safe mode. B

Nice!! *snort* I swim in it, but I shower afterwards... B

I'm assuming no news yet... I'm sorry to hear Mike, and I really hope you get it back in sound condition soon. I really don't know what the hell is wrong with people, why they can justify taking someones car... I saw one of these on an H2 the other day, it was the nicest part of the truck... http://www.readytodefend.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26 B

Ok, so one other person has mad props for tripod action, TC... I think I may have done this a time or two in my first pathy (it having been a manual tranny) when I was trying to jump through a slot in traffic or such. Hard to tell from the inside though, it did feel strange. My second pathy hasn't exhibited the same trait though, it being an automagic tranny and all. I seriously doubt it could pull up it's own pants, much less a wheel... B

This is a standard aftermarket upgrade in the dunebuggy world and would be useful for open diffs and LSD alike to get power to the wheel you want to in a leg up situation. Never considered it for a 4x4 but it's the same principle... B

Yep, someone else recently posted their sticker. k9sar and $32k IIRC... Yeah, I bought my second one for about 10% of new sticker price when it was 14 years old. Still less than 100k on the clock, a hell of a deal for what you get if you ask me. B

It's still got the vertical rear door handles so it's still a Pathfinder! It's all about the door handles... B

Exactly. Look at it this way, if you up shift from 4th (at 55 mph and 3000 rpm) to fifth and in fifth you are doing 55 and 2500 rpm, the inverse change has to go the other way to downshift. You need to raise the rpm from 2500 to 3000 for a smooth downshift from 5th to 4th, but I am only using the numbers as examples so they probably aren't correct. Don't over think it, just pay attention to the car's noise and vibration in a given gear before you shift and this is what you will need to mimic to downshift. It should be a 2-3 second procedure if done correctly. Lightly grab the shifter (so it can follow it's pattern), depress the clutch about 1/2 way while pulling the shifter back to 4th gear and slightly stepping on the gas more than it is, locking it in 4th and letting the 1/2 clutch back out. Go somewhere you can practice a few in a row and simply pay attention what the truck wants you to do, it's really that simple. That said, I have seen almost everyone (no matter how good) miss a gear shift so don't get frustrated if it happens. One more thing, if your motor or tranny mounts are seriously damaged, no one will be able to shift it right so have someone with experience hive it a spin. B

I used my ARB bumper as a shelf to temporarily store a caulking gun I was using to patch some siding on my house. B

Probably not the best thread for it, but we can cross link in the future... For what it is worth, the difference between the Superlift (aka Rough Country) UCAs compared to the Explorer (aka AC UCAs). Batteries not included, for ages 5 and older and mileage may vary... B

Couldn't recall who, but should have known. Thanks for the heads up... B

Best I can do on short notice... B

Sorry, this what I should have said when I asked if you removed the bumper, but to me, once you have removed the bumper (without brackets) you can see if the brackets are lifting the chassis. That is the only thing I could think of that could possibly lift the body with it... Glad you got it figured out, I hate being stuck like that!! This is better done with 2 people IMHO. One can lift while the other monitors, pries, hammers, etc as appropriate. B

^agreed B

Excellent set up, execution and reasoning!! You may now go achieve on board air... Seriously though, even dropping to a reasonably safe 20 psi will help a lot in any situation compared to the 28-35 that most people run with their 31x10.5s. I'm not an air down guru but this is a no brainer. Depending on how you are driving though (disclaimer)... B

Yet they claim clean carfax?? Regardless, if repairs were done correctly, it probably doesn't matter. With the mileage and package (including the Rapist Red interior), if I was looking for a 2 door I wouldn't hesitate to pay $3000 for it. I was looking for a '95 with low miles and got mine for $3200 with 96k miles in 95% condition. Sure, many people have $1000 pathys that run fine but some of us were looking for something specific and to pay $3000 for a good condition, low mileage 4x4 is nothing!! Hell, I've put more into it in aftermarket parts than I paid for it, and it is still a deal to me. B

They are essentially flat and circular, with a rubber isolator pad on one side. Delrin or UHMW PolyEthylene might work, I don't know about poly carb though, may be too brittle. I know someone in Australia had some aluminum ones made. I've heard a lot of bad feed back about using hockey pucks though, what are they made of?? Point is that unless you have some free resources, by the time you get the material, cut, finish and drill it, source your bolts and whatnot, you are probably most of the way to the cost of an aftermarket lift. B

The advice has been sound so far, I'm just trying to think what might still be holding things together. You removed the front bumper, correct? B

There are some coolant lines back there that go into the intake plenum and another that runs through the cylinder valley (can't remember why right now) but it could be one of those hoses. Pretty much a pita to get to... I recommend trying to locate it before you just tear into it though. One way is to dust the drip trail with talcum powder so you can see fresh leaks and try to trace it back, another is to have a shop (or someone with a pressure cap) to pressure test the system, basically try to cause the leak when the engine is cold and you can look/poke/prod safely. Good luck, I hate any intermittent problem!! B

Ouch, I had no idea the part was that expensive!! Yeah, it does add up fast; that's probably 1/2 the reason I do it myself if I can. Someone has an inflated notion of what their time is worth. I wouldn't go back to them. Ever. B

Check out the threads in the How To section on changing the timing belt. The harmonic ballancer has to come off to do it, so it is clearly covered with a few tricks. $600 seems like a rip off for that job, even if every bolt is frozen. Start by putting PB blaster or some other specific bolt penetrant on them (NOT WD40!!). B

Damn!! Do you know how many miles on that belt?? Square tooth are only rated to 60,000 miles... B

You are welcome and ok, one less thing for me to forget to do... Here is his post. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=574&view=findpost&p=3834 He was swapping out motors IIRC so that suggests he used the stock set up and rerouted it. I'm guessing the intake was off... B