Precise1

1/4-20= .250" Major diameter max, .196-.207" Minor diameter, .05" thread pitch. M6x1.= .236" Major diameter max, .194-.203" Minor diamter, .0394" thread pitch. Close, but not quite. Now M5x.8 and 10-32, those are really close... You are far enough into it that it would be silly not to. Of course you'll have to set the belt right before you can get good readings... B

Something I ran across today. I haven't installed it myself as I have SolidWerks and AutoCAD but for people to view existing .dwg drawings or make your own prints or concepts it might prove useful. Enjoy. http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/download-draftsight/?xtor=SEC-6-GOO-[]-[]-S-[DraftSight] B

So you went from panic to LOL in 23 hours?? B

Looks like a tapered drill bushing, that should help a lot. Trim your fingernails... B

Center punch?? The automatic ones are handy for this. Center drill?? They are extremely stout and make a nice pilot hole to help you drill straight. Drill bushing? these sleeves help center and support the drill so it walks less. Which is it you are going to use? B

It certainly seems to be able to get out of it's own way... B

Ouch!! Thanks for answering it though. B

Back spacing=spacing from the back of the rim as I understand it. 4" back spacing on a 8" wide rim means it locates on the center of the rim width. 2" BS on a 8" wide rim means it sticks out 2" farther (6" total) from the locating surface. It depends what tires you want to run and the stance you are after, but 6-8" rims with 3-4" back spacing seem to fit the WD21s best. Oh, you have an R50, I think the BS is a little more for them?? B

Depends how deep you went, but blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air (with the plugs still installed), remove the dizzy cap and give it and the rotor a shot of WD40, and same for every electrical connector that might have gotten wet. This is in addition to the previous post, and check your OBD2 also, it may give you a component to check out... B

We got it the first time!! Cobalt drills are harder than HSS but tend to be more brittle, especially with higher percentages of cobalt alloys. The tungsten drills should be tougher but not as brittle so I would use those. I do not believe the studs are hardened so special tooling is not really required. B

Never seen or used those Adam, but I don't like the reverse spiral on small stuff, EZ-Outs anyway. They don't have the reverse spiral so the bite is set by taping them into the hole (read variable) and rather than break, they will usually back out of the hole so you have a better feel. I've broken too many of the small spiral types to trust them. Everyone has their own preference/finess though. B The best approach is to use left handed drills from the start, regardless of what extractor you use...

Especially for the smaller work, I favor the square, tapered ones. B

LOL Bastage!! I am currently repairing my water damaged eaves and roof before the rains come. This year's priority is definitely not the truck. Hopefully next year... B

You can try, but I don't think Poop will allow it... B

for everything but the finger. As a machinist, I have to say Knock That Off, you need those things!! Hell of a job Bud, I can't fathom where you collected all the skill and knowledge to do such work. B

Install an inline filter and run any configuration of coolers you want. It'll only do the trranny that much better. I am considering rerouting my system to go from tranny to filter to stock cooler to aux cooler back to tranny. B

I'm pretty sure that I read that not all years had the same torque spec. I might have to look that up again... B

Damn, I didn't get to this in time. Here is a link to a 25 pack of bolts (enough for 2 cars) for $11, throw in some lock washers and you are all set for under $15... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Hex-Head-Cap-Screw-6AE10?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Fasteners-_-Screws-_-6AE10&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=6AE10 B

Oh Hell No and Oh Hell Yes!! The thread engagenment in the head does matter in aluminum, I can look up the lengths once I get home and I know I posted them in a thread here. B

Damn, that's about 1/10th the new price if you can even find one. Who cares if it needs some work, good score!! B

Is it?? That's what I'm trying to figure out... After some inspection, the silicone paste does not seem as though it has significantly 'restored' the rubber although two factors may have influenced that. The spray may penetrate the rubber better and when I applied the paste, it was on the exposed side only. Perhaps if the rubber was soaked on all surfaces there would be more results, easier to do with a spray obviously. B

Check to see if it is loose, binding, how much it freewheels, etc with the motor off of course. X2 on buying a new one if you need to replace it. B

Rock Auto on line was the cheapest I could find when I had to replace the one in the Wife's Matrix. In the Classified section there is a thread with a promo code worth an additional 5% off the price... B

No, that is in Lousiana IIRC. Trailchaser?? B

I need a place to put some gauges so I'm in, probably for 2 if they are that cheap. Who wants to be project leader?? Who wants to be counted in?? B