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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. I've never heard of a kit, so yeah, I think piece-meal is the only option. B
  2. For the rear, correct?? The most common method is to burn it out with a torch. I haven't done it myself, but they are famous for being quite stubborn... B
  3. Don't mess around. Go with the best and forget the rest!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Schwimmwagen B
  4. Ford Explorer, they have a nice plate version that is 6x11 so probably 16,000-18,000 GVWR. You will need a 8mm wrench to remove it IIRC, there are plenty to be found in junkyards. Big Write Up B
  5. Yeah, I recalled that this morning. Thanks! B
  6. Fixed that. I have a set of them also, but unmounted. They are the 67" ones for a Toyota IIRC but fit well. Unless you are quite fab experienced and have all the right tools/materials already, I doubt you could make a set cheaper than what they cost. They seem quite solid at a ship weight of almost 70(?)lbs. I can get you some pictures if you need them. B
  7. Hey Dowser, 41mm (1 5/8) is the answer. I have one of these if you need to borrow it, but I couldn't get mine loose. http://www.industrialsupplydenver.com/jhwistwrboxe7.html

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Dowser

      Dowser

      Thanks you guys. That's going to make it a little Easier. I'm hoping a can of lube, a 2 foot breaker bar, a cheater bar if necessary and these Monster Sized Bicepts can do the job. If not, I'll just swear a little and use the can of lube to make myself feel better. *grin*

       

    3. Dowser

      Dowser

      Thanks you guys. That's going to make it a little Easier. I'm hoping a can of lube, a 2 foot breaker bar, a cheater bar if necessary and these Monster Sized Bicepts can do the job. If not, I'll just swear a little and use the can of lube to make myself feel better. *grin*

       

    4. nunya

      nunya

      all i saw was lube...

  8. It shows that I care. Good point, not much time then... B But seriously, I have used cheater bars on ratchets but once I broke one, I stopped. I just look at it like why break a tool?
  9. I'm sorry to hear, but you gotta do what you gotta do... Thanks for joining and being part of the crew. Shipping may kill the deal, but I'm looking to fix up the wife's 1999 R50. I can't recall if the 2001 is still the VG33, but if it is I'd be interested in the intake and the missing link. I'll watch for the thread. Best of luck in the future. B
  10. Ok, Nunya set you up. Download the Factory Service Manual and take a look. Seems like a lot of it is just cleaning, lubing and maintaining but the brakes are important to address. B
  11. I agree that the price is a little high, I paid the same for a 95 with under 100k on it. About the tranny, it is a little bit of a gamble, but as long as the fluid is in good shape, it shifts/drives well and reverse works without hesitation, it should be ok. I would say that the first thing you should do is make sure the stock cooler is clear, install an aftermarket tranny cooler after that and an inline tranny fluid filter before the stock cooler. Then change the fluid and drive it!! All of this is written up here and can be done for about $100-200. B
  12. Yep, that looks right. IIRC 25mm long works and you might need a washer/spacer with the 30mm ones. Too bad they didn't have enough 10.9 grade but the 8.8 equate roughly to grade 5 standard bolts so I'll bet they will work just fine. It could be an interesting test. It couldn't hurt to put the grade 8.8 bolts in the easy to access holes... B
  13. Having had worked for 3M for years, I will say 2 things. 3M quality standards are generally impressice, there is a reason their products are expensive and that I have never used a 3M product that didn't perform at least as well as it claimed to. Thanks for the write up Derek!! I know I have 2 or 3 3M intake cleaner/fuel treatment 'kits' in the garage. 3 different bottles shrink wrapped together that I wasn't sure what to do with, but now I'll have to re-investigate... B
  14. Nope but I have been aound ball valves for decades. The principle is sound... B
  15. The one for my D720 was a straight bar just like the jack rod in the WD21 (same jack too) so I don't know why they would use something else for the Hardbody... LOL You should never use a cheater bar on a ratchet either. That's what breaker bars are for. $25 for a life time tool that is for that... Canadians!! B
  16. From my experience of driving 3 Nissan trucks for almost 20 years, they do not overheat. If you are overheating, it is a symptom of a problem (clogged radiator, bad thermostat, fan clutch, etc). Address the problem and forget the water wetter crap, it isn't needed. B
  17. Bedliner everything like Kingman did... B
  18. You quoted your own post?? Personally, I'd buy some complete doors with the options you want, paint them to match and hang them on your Pathy. Voila, done... B
  19. Fuel pressure/filter?? I had an old Fury that would stall on uphills only. It was the fuel filter... B
  20. The bad exhaust leaks could be causing the O2 sensor to signal for more gas. I doubt that is the only issue here but it certainly won't help. Pull one of the easier plugs and see if it is obviously running rich. Other than that, the previous posts cover where I would start... B
  21. LOL My bad. Guess I hadn't woken up yet. Besides, who the hell wants to live in Canada?? Yeah, those numbers look right now that they are in miles... B
  22. Those numbers don't match how my first pathfinder performed (1995 5 speed with 31" tires). It sure as hell wasn't going 70mph in 5th gear at 1800rpm!! B
  23. But you might want to edit the number... B
  24. ^ Yes, step one. Drain and fill with 5.1 liters of gear oil (5.4 quarts) of 75-w90 GL4 or Redline MT-90 and let us know what happens. I used 5qts of 85-w90 and .5qts Lucas stabilizing oil in my first Pathy and it would shift a bit stiff for the first 5 minutes when it was cold here (40-45F or lower). Yes, consider tossing some Lucas in there, it seems to do well in gear cases. B
  25. I'd bet it is either this or do you live in a rust state? The bed should not look like that with out some sort of major damage or component failure (which should be easy to spot). As long as it drives fine, you just have a cosmetic issue. Measure the 4 corner heights (after verifying no sagging along the bed) top and bottom and graph it out. It'll tell you what is going on... B
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