Precise1

Actually, I disagree with that. If the fluid for the vehicle looks good the cooler is probably fine inside, and they are pretty easy to flush. True, coolers aren't that expensive and maybe someone doesn't want to mess with it, but they are a robust plate design and just about the right size. Let me post a picture of one. You figure a B&M from Summit is about $50 for the same design (tube and fin is not comparable) + shipping and I paid $16 for this one. That's enough of a difference to matter to many people. It even comes with hoses and hose clamps!! Oh, make sure to bring an 8mm wrench to remove the mounting bolts. Yes 8mm (.3149") not 5/16 (.3125") on a Ferd. B

Thanks for the posting and the link Kelyn. Bama it is!! B

Good sleuthing!! I can't see the rubber caps, but I didn't think later years came with the hubcaps/rims like that, hence my guess. Mine doesn't have the stock bumper or rims so nothing handy to reference to. B Sorry...

Ohhh!! I like that idea, the best use for it yet!! B

What?? Yes, I'm in for 2. Thats 10% of the order, so I demand some service!! How much, and when?? Oh, and where do I send the $? I assume a_l is sending the one he has as it will be the fastest and cheapest (lets keep the ball rolling). Thank you for that a_l, it is much appreciated. Got a name or shall I call you Al?? Has anyone mentioned this to Steeeevo over at Rugged Rocks? He may be interested in carrying a few, know some people who would pitch in or simply want one for his awesome rig. Minimum order is 20, and we have that but more is better in this case; the company may put a little more effort into quality (I work at a molding shop so trust me) and it should bring the unit cost down. I suggest we take a few days to inflate numbers as much as possible, but still send the piece asap. Thoughts/input? B

Thanks, Jerk. J/K of course, but stay the hell away from my heated power mirrors!! B

Yes, I have heard the same. The PO bought the Pathy from the first owner with a failed tranny and rebuilt it himself, installing a shift kit IIRC, at somewhere around 85,000 miles. He sold it to me with 96k miles and it has 106k miles on it now, 2.5 years later. I bought it because I wanted a WD21 with low miles to mod and if the tranny fails I'll either take it apart (I have a repair manual for it) or put in a HD version. So far so good though. No, it did not have an aftermarket cooler, filter or temp gauge like it does now. B

I'm just as interested in the Bug. By the Karmann badge, it is a convertible and I'm guessing an early 70's by the hubcaps, but that is a tough one... Nice work on the Pathy BTW. B

As Silverton and Kingman said, check your pan hard rod (the lateral bar on the rear axle) bushings also. B

Trannys can fail at virtually any age/mileage. Some people have 250,000 miles without problems, and the tranny in my 1995 was rebuilt with less than 90,000 miles on it. The stock tranny cooler is the #1 cause of failure if it clogs but driving styles influence it also. IIRC the overdrive can cause a lot of heat with hilly driving and heat is bad. The steps to help your tranny last are to keep the fluid in good condition, bypass the stock cooler and use an aftermarket one, install an inline filter and a temp gauge so you have some isea of what is going on in there. All of this can be done for about $100 so there really isn't any excuse... B

Actually, we do have Services and Vendors sections in the Classifieds section. Would you like to have a vendor account and have this moved there?? B

But I need room for my walker, oxygen generator and defibrillator!! B

I'd take that Nige, but in the 4 door please... B

I do not recall anyone having a problem with the transfer case where they shifted out of 4x4 and it was still engaged. Not saying it's not possible, just not common at all. Yeah, experimentation and inspection is the next step. B

No, I do not think it is anything serious. I suspect it is merely the difference of having the CV's turn VS not turning although I have not felt how bad it vibrates. Have you jacked up the front and spun them by hand, looked/listened? This would be my next step. As DVW stated, the drive flanges (solidly bolted on via 6 bolts) have to be removed to install the Mile Marker hubs; I have the same on a 1999.0. The flanges make the CVs turn any time the wheel does and the Mile Markers select if they spin or not. B

Around $3500 IIRC with some extra parts, stock, straight body, running, no rust... B

Exactly, when locked but not in 4x4, you are spinning your front CVs. This is extra inertia and if they are binding at all, can easily cause vibration felt in the steering. If you were still running the stock drive flanges, you would have this effect all of the time. Lifting increases the CV angle, making it more likely to be stiff or binding and larger tires generally amplify any steering problems or effects. How much of a change did you make? I'm going to assume it was all done correctly... B

I'm pretty sure that it will be a limited run, but I would have to assume the company will keep what ever design/templates/etc that they make/use for future runs so it may be cheaper/easier in the future for another run? I simply plan on buying several and probably reselling most. If we could get Steeeeevo (Rugged Rocks) on board with this, he is good at getting pre-orders for limited runs. Cool, welcome Bud!! I haven't been to that site, but I can respect the challenges we all have in trying to keep things on an even keel. Don't take the comments of a few as bashing, this is primarily a Pathfinder Off Road site, so of course there will be some facepalming when bags or shaving is mentioned. Those people tent to congregate at other sites... B

I'd have to go with the Patrol. The point is that we have a modded WD21 and a stockish R50 for a reason, both fulfill a different function. When I have modded the new Patrol appropriately, then I would have to decide which and properly modify one of the remaining Pathys to compliment it while selling the other. There was one for sale locally that seemed reasonable about a year back. I was and still am in a 'no new project' mindset. B

I was going to point you to the FSM, but I suspect you did a better job writing it up. Glad you got it done and rest assured, you saved something like $100-150 depending on rates and shop minimums. B

I have a Maxima alty with the Pathy pully also and I'm fairly certain that it used the same belt as before. The idler arm unbolts easily and the bearing drops out or taps out IIRC. No press or special tools needed so its an easy fix. B

If you want to generalize or go by majority I guess that works for you, but I can't agree with that statement. Both auto and manual came with either 4.3 or 4.6 gears would be a correct statement. Don't want to mislead anyone... B

There have been a lot of engine noise related questions recently, and I ran across this from working on many different year Pathfinders; starting in the 1998 FSM there is a Noise, Vibration and Harshness trouble shooting guide! While it is basic and set up for the VG33, The only difference with the VG30 is where some of the accessories are located (alternator, power steering pump, etc). This guide and a mechanic's stethescope should get you narrowed down fairly easily. EM7-EM8, check it out. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/em.pdf Might as well chime in with things that aren't listed so maybe we can get a comprehensive guide together. Thanks all and good luck. B

Remember that high temp silicone that you should never have to use? Well, it sticks the gasket to the head quite well so it's back to just slipping the bolts in... No point in arguing about it, everyone will do what and how they see best or what they are comfortable with. B

FYI, the downloadable FSM pinned in the Garage section has an extensive trouble shooting section for the AT. No harm in posting/asking, but that would probably be your best tool... Glad to hear it came back; lets hope it stays. B