Precise1

Some pathfinders came stock with 31" tires, so no, they should fit fine with rims 6-8" wide and 3.5-4" back spacing. Question is, are you actually at stock height or have your torsion bars sagged a bit over the years? B

I highly recommend you go to the Garage section in the pinned FSM thread and download your own 1994 Factory Service Manual. There is an extensive diagnostic section that should tell you what is going on before remove anything. B

Well, we have a 95 auto and a 99 auto so I am tempted, but the wife would be rightfully pissed if I ripped both apart and disabled one... The R50 unit is superior in at least 1/2 a dozen ways. I'll put "R50 center console" right next to "X-terra rack"... B

Yes, give them a dose of penetrating oil and let them sit for a bit, over night, a day when you drive it around some... Then hit the bolt heads hard with a hammer once or twice, careful not to hurt anything or anyone. This shock often helps break up corrosion between the threads. Then use an impact gun (any type) or breaker bar and give it another try. If it still doesn't budge you can try flame on the A arm or nut if there is one and then cooling the bolt or stud quickly using a can of air up side down. Biggest thing is to be patient and careful, you are obviously going to need a bit of force... B

What idler arm brace did you get? I bought a 'used' (unmounted) Calmini IAB that was so far off that it couldn't be mounted (see linky in my signature). I then bought a new AC (4x4parts) brace that was poorly clearanced, but mounted up fine and should be sufficient... B

Good Job!! You say it was so tight in back that you didn't bolt it down. Does it still open correctly without excess rubbing?? B

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Ahh, well, I'm talking about a 250cc enduro or so, probably not weighing more than 250-300lbs. 750# eh? No, I wouldn't ride that into the back of a truck either unless it was off of a loading dock. B

Teamwork!! The bearings are still behind a flange nut regardless of what hubs are run and need a 'special' socket to service, but many of us old salties just use a drift pin and tap them on and off... B

The hubs bolt on the same with 6 socket head cap screws and slip off of the splines the same also. There's not much to service other than clean and lightly grease for both units. B

Manufactures vary slightly and then considering wear they could be between 31" and 30", either will fit fine. The bigger question is the back spacing of the 17" rims and if that will interfere with anything. That I have no answer for... B

I had no issue of damaged o-rings that I know of, but then I only changed one. It seemed to pop in just fine when pressing down and rotating it slightly. Did I get lucky? I cant recall if I lubed the o-rings with engine oil or not. If they are impervious to gas, oil cant hurt them so no reason not to... B

I've been considering these as I plan to hang a motorcycle off of the back of the pathy. Looking forward to hearing about the install and any observations. B

MY1PATH IIRC, and a few others I can't name. Search in the 87.5-89 section if you are curious... B

Why rush?? Make a trip of it, not a chore... I know what you mean, sometimes you make time and get it done too. B

33rd out of 50? 46k sq miles?? Yeah, about 1/4 of Cali... Like everyone said, hoses, belts, oil, coolant, air pressure, etc. Is you timing belt due? If not, it doesn't need to be done just for a 2-3 day drive. B

Do what makes it grind next to a cement wall or something that will reflect the noise, it should help a lot in narrowing down where it comes from. Have a buddy try to locate the noise when you drive by. A visual inspection and locating the noise are the first step in figuring it out. Don't worry yet, it may be trivial... B

I had a failing injector on our 1999.0 R50. I contacted NOW (nissan only wrecker http://www.ninfiniti.com/ ) and bought a set of used injectors, both fuel rails and the pressure regulator for $160 IIRC. I only replaced the one and have the other 5 set aside as spares. Worked fine for 1.5 years and 10,000 miles so far. The biggest concerns are to make sure the injectors you get are color matched (the body will have a dab of paint on the top, visible when the wiring connector is removed) and that you replace the O-rings with new ones. Do not deviate from these two things and you should be fine. Whether you go with brand new injectors, rebuilt or used, I would replace just the one if it is on the passenger side (easy to get to) or all three if it is on the drivers side (have to remove the plenum to get to them). I'm sure you see the logic of that and if you do remove the plenum, make sure to tighten the valve cover screws on that side and the fuel rail hose clamps as well... B

Actually, no. 65 is the sidewall height in percentage relative to the width of the tread in millimeters (225) or 10.04" wide with a 6.525" sidewall height (166mm). If the rim size is one inch larger in diameter, so is the tire diameter with the same tread width and sidewall ratio. 255/65/15=28" diameter 255/65/16=29" diameter The fact that no one makes it anymore is probably why you can't get rid of it. I respect being frugal, but in this case I suspect you aren't doing yourself any good. Take the tire to a local shop and donate it to them (if they want it) in exchange for a free mount and balance. Either sell the rim and buy a matching one, or use it. Get another tire of the same diameter (I recommend the same tread also), go back to the same shop and have them mount it for you. Then you will be rid of a useless tire and have a correct full sized spare. The WD21 spares are stupid; they came with undersized spares mounted on an external carrier!! Pathys with 235/75/15 had 215/75/15 50/50 emergency only spares, and I believe that the ones with 31" tires came with 235/75/15 spares. Dumb as a box of rocks if you ask me. B

Acceptable? None. Don't have a smaller spare, have a full sized one. B

There is a limit on how hard you can push the stock components. They aren't designed to win races or crawl rocks with huge tires, they are designed for reliable functioning under relatively normal use/abuse and to wear, not break. Seriously, there is benefit in some give in the system, where things can flex and you have wear items. Ever consider why the bushings are plastic? If you address the center link issue (the hardbody mod seems viable) and brace the idler arm, the system should last a while. If you are tearing things or bending them, then you are pushing it too hard with either/or too large tires/too much skinny pedal. There is a reason for SAS, but only for the hardcore. How long have you had your pathy, how do you know your idler arm is bent, when did it happen, and why? B

Yes, several people have done it. Beastpath comes to mind at first to look up. Basically, it's not too hard, but some details such as pedals, dash vent routing, etc. Your best bet is to find a parts pathy, buy the whole thing, strip parts as you need them and then sell the rest to recoup some of the cost. Can it be done for less than $900 that way? Most definitely!! Is it a project. Yes, but not in a bad way... B

I find it hard to believe that you passed emissions testing and have failing components. Can you post the actual test numbers? I'd guess driving habits, brake drag, tires (inflation and tread type), etc but this still shouldn't drive it down to 10 mpg. The only time I have gotten that poor mileage is when I only drive to and from work, 5 miles each way, warming it up, with stop lights and never exceeding 50mph. B

Remember that the FSM has a significant diagnostic section on the AT. If you don't have a copy you can download it in the pinned thread in the Garage section. I'd definitely troubleshoot that way first. B

Thanks WD21overland, good work. Silverton, I know what you mean but that's not the extreme I'm talking about. B