Precise1

Well, I hope what you get from Calmini actually works. They screwed up an idler arm brace and had no interest in making good on it. I'll never buy their products... B

If you are going through sawsall blades, it sounds like it might be a hardened/high grade bolt (makes sense) so if you can get them, I recommend 135 degree split point cobalt drills... B

Welcome Bud!! Well, as for the rust, I have to agree... Cut it out or it will spread. If you must cover it, look in the Classified section here for people who are parting out vehicles and buy a set from them? Congrats on your Pathy BTW... B

I run 28-30psi, seems the best balance between even contact patch, ride comfort, cornering, wear and mileage. B

Ok, you have the nut off, but the bolt won't spin with about 150-200ft/lbs of torque on it? Have you tried striking it a few times with a hand sledge from the nut side to break it loose or drive it out? At this point, assume you will need a new bolt so proceed with destructive methods. If striking doesn't work, I'd drill through the bolt head side about 3/4 the minor diameter of the thread, but be careful to drill on center. Once you drill 1/2 an inch, try the hammer again. If it doesn't budge, repeat steps... B

I agree with what Kingman said. Cheap wires will not last as long and may affect spark plug performance. I go with the more expensive wires but they fit perfectly, last a long time and don't cause any problems. Check them out... http://www.karlynsti.com/Folders/Karlyn_STI_Ignition_Wire_Sets.htm B

Go with 4000# stock and empty and add from there. If you can ditch 1000# in trailer weight and still be sturdy, I'd recommend it... B

I was under the impression that in 2001, all North America Pathfinders were equipped with the VQ35? I highly recommend you verify what motor you have. There should be a plaque on your firewall tucked to the far passenger side, in the engine compartment. About 1/2 way down it will say "Engine Type"... B

Sometimes you can have a pinhole leak in the flexible line that only leaks when pressure is applied. Is your carpet dry in your drivers side foot well? I have seen fluid leak down the master cylinder piston rod and drip inside the vehicle. I will say, don't skimp on brake repair though. They are too important to take chances with! B

There is a thread pinned in the General section that lists vendors. B

Just a joke, of course. I don't like it at all, but it's your truck, not mine... B

If your local Pick and Pull doesn't have any seats, look in the classifieds here for a part out. I sold a drivers seat to someone in Pheonix AZ and the shipping wasn't that bad. They fold up fairly well and are fairly light. B

I think that if you leave the chrome on, I'll join with the PO and REPO it... B

It should crank at a decent (normal?) speed. If it is cranking slow you either have a weak battery (might last a long time), poor electrical connections or a failing starter, probably in that order... B

Best pull one and look for stamps/logos and take some measurements... B

Nope, not stock. I have seen them before but can't name them. They are fairly common, American Racing or Crager if I had to guess. B

*snort* Drift the Pathy right on it's side... No, the center lever is easier to get to and use and you can get to it in a hurry if you need to. It is better for using to get emergency posi out of an open diff and is a tool used by anyone who wheels with manual tranny. And 'cause I drift, yo. B

Oh, forget that than. I'll take a center hand brake lever over a under dash handle any day. B

I merged these two into one since they were so similar in content and name. Carry on... B

That is a good point that an X might work, but I have never compared the two and the local pick and pull doesn't stock X-terras, so... B

From my experience this is not correct. Usually if it freewheels that much, it is worn or not functioning correctly. There should be no wobble or play, it should turn quite easily by hand without any grinding or catching and not freewheel more than 1/2 turn when spun cold. The real test is when you start the engine it should be engaged (lots of fan noise) and then disengage (less fan noise) as the fluid is pumped from one chamber to another over the course .5-2 minutes. Here, this will describe it best... http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Imperial/2007-imperial-fan-clutches.pdf To the OP, do a visual/manual inspection of the fan clutch. B

This and didn't cost too much in addition to all the parts but the entire exhaust cost about $800 US. B

x2 on the tranny jack, it makes all the difference. That and a friend to help swear and push... B

Yep, check the connection at the battery terminals and also follow the negative cable behind the battery to where it connects to the chassis. Disconnect and clean the contact surfaces, and do the same farther down where it goes to the engine block. Clean battery connections don't help without good connections at the other end... B

*snort* Sending the email after I finish my bacon. B