Precise1

I have all my interior lights set not to turn on when doors/hatch open regardless. Who wants to risk a drain or have the interior illuminated when a door opens? I can turn a light on if I want to... Cool, congrats!! Picts or it didn't happen though... Door ajar is probably the rear hatch, as was mentioned. There were two factory sizes, 235/75/15 and 31x15" so what is on the car. The best place to start is a thread here that covers what tranny/gears/rpm you have at freeway speeds. That will narrow things down alot and inform. Try our questionable search function and if you can't find it, let me know. Sound proofing is poor, but what noise do you hear? Road/tire? Engine/exhaust? Constant whining noise from the passenger seat? Sounds like the timing belt broke or jumped and he had the heads pulled and checked, replaced all of the other stuff while he was there. This is all good news and hopefully the water pump and thermostat was changed, but we can get to that later. The snow is melting in Tahoe? It's not even sticking?? (worried about drought) It's 72 degrees here and now... B

Congrats!! Take her out to a bar and get her schnockered... B

That is one hell of a bumper for a civic!! B

Meh. Nissan was Datsun that is Nissan now. Semantics. Focus on making quality reliable vehicles and call yourself Nosun for all I care. B

Ok guys, here is another free CAD software to check out, but this one is a 3D app that runs in your browser, ie. nothing to download. I haven't messed with it myself yet, but since I discovered it through Popular Mechanics, I'm pretty sure it is legit. Have at it... https://tinkercad.com/home/ B

Yes, good deduction. The red one is my first Pathfinder in it's 2nd to last stage of life, the part out stage. The other is my current WD21 that is patiently awaiting some rear axle seals and brake work ATM. It's a Champagne 95xe with lsd (with a few extras) like the one you are interested in... B

Yes, exactly. Your vehicle has a OBD2 system so you just need to get the codes read (usually for free at large auto parts stores). You can buy a reader (a worthy investment in my book) but just get the cheap base model, all it needs to do is read the codes and clear them. If your CEL isn't on, I suspect the bulb is burnt out. Anything ignition (wires, cap, rotor) could be suspect but rather than inspecting for obvious issues, check the codes! The break down for the codes can be had by downloading the Factory Service Manual by going to the Garage section/pinned Factory Service Manuals thread and downloading a copy of your year. It also will have a Diagnosis section that is always a good read. B

Nice write up, thank you! Amazing how bad those can look inside, isn't it? B

Going on a hunch that is easy to check... Have you checked the TPS? B

I know it's not really what you are after, but I have a large Rubbermaid bin in the back that I secure with a cargo net against the rear seats (could also be bolted in place). It is not see through, it is lockable and it holds oil, water, tie down straps, tree saver, 30,000 lb strap, D rings, snatch block, 50' rope, sleeping bag, spare belts and hoses along with items I don't recall and there is still some rom. I'll take a picture if you want. Cheap and easily removable. B

Raining right now in Santa Rosa, so you'll have at least another day of storm. Looks clear after that though... Cool, that one sounds just like mine! Here, allow me to whet your appetite. B

The tranny pressure has been rated at 100 PSI (parroting, not investigated) so going through a filter shouldn't be an issue. A filter might slow the flow, but I doubt there will be any dangerous back pressure in the system. I'd rather filter the flow than have max flow. What I don't like about the Magnafine filters is the bypass; it can clog and do you no good, without you realizing. While there are several different options for ATF filtering, I am going with a simple, quality spin off filter (easily changed) along with a temperature sensor. If flow was ever impeded to where it affected cooling, I'll know about it right away... B

Howdy Lee. Theoretically the aftermarket radiators are not as prone to clogging as the stock units, just like the 1996+ radiators. Different/slightly modified design after learning, but I haven't taken any apart to study the internals. I don't know anyone who has made a definitive study themselves either. I currently have an auto tranny cooled solely by an aftermarket external cooler, about 18,000gvw set up with a filter and temp sensor before it. What I plan to do is make sure the replaced radiator cooler portion is clear (with compressed air) and set up the system like this... Tranny out to filter/sensor to radiator cooler to after market cooler (22,000gvw) back to the tranny. The thought is this: filtered ATF should last longer and and be free of any significant sediment so it shouldn't clog the radiator cooler. The radiator cooler allows the ATF to heat up quicker but also maintain a narrower range of temp for the tranny to operate in. The aftermarket cooler should cool the ATF significantly, perhaps 30-50 degrees cooler, allowing the tranny to maintain lower internal temperature. The temperature gauge gives good feedback on if the system and/or tranny is working correctly. I really can't come up with a significant reason not to set up the system like this as it has all the advantages. Hopefully I'll be setting this up in the next few months. B

Hi and Welcome! Yep, I've been driving Nissans for almost 20 years now and reliability has always been there. Is that one an XE or SE, does it have LSD in the rear, heated mirrors, external tire carrier? All of which I think you would want in Reno... Look at the price this way. Is an extremely reliable 4x4 with 130k miles that can haul your family year round worth $3000-4000?? When it was new, it cost 10x that... No point in over paying, but if it is what you want it hardly seems like a bad deal, especially considering the condition and recent mechanical work.(assuming no rust/cancer) Some people get ridiculous deals, but I bought my current 1995 with 96,000 miles for $3200 two years ago and consider it a deal. It's all relative... 1995 have no real issues other than weak front steering (center link) when used aggressively/off road/large wheels (remedies are not terribly expensive), exhaust burning under driver foot area (usually due to leaking exhaust, not hard to deal with) and rust, mainly in the salt states. If it isn't rusted already, I doubt it is an issue. Make sure the gears do not whine, and if you buy it, replace the drive line fluids, especially the tranny which will need 5.1 liters of GL-4 only or Redline MT90, just trust me for now. All this said, good luck!! The WD21 Pathfinder is a fairly reliable vehicle and normally doesn't need much attention under normal usage conditions. They tend to last under harsh usage too and most of the tips and parts can be found here also. B

Sorry, shop manual did not register as FSM. Ok, do this: compare it to the 4wd system exploded view. Is the lock nut the same with the two spanner holes in it? Is the tool number the same? If so, I just use a drift pin and a hammer to tap it loose/tight as it doesn't take much but some prefer to use a socket. If not, remove the dust cap (no auto hubs in the way, right?) and take a look? B

Go to the Garage section. There is a pinned thread on the Factory Service Manuals and where to download them. It obviously covers the 2wd versions and will have an exploded view, torque settings, etc... B

Yup, makes sense with your answer. With a little luck it is just the oil pan and snugging the 10mm bolts is all that is needed. B

No rhyme or reason to it? Stopped, certain speed, place or condition? Hot? Cold? Totally random?? B

I don't know of any fuses other than under the dash. So the head lights work? You need a tester, preferably a multimeter but even 2 pins/wires taped to a 12 volt bulb would work.Ttest to see if you have power to the new lights, then backtrack the wiring if you don't. B

^x2 B

The bottom most pinned thread in this section?? I know, you are tired... B

I have had my truck go into limp mode once when a wire grounded out against my newly installed headers (took out 1/2 of the gauge cluster too). I drove it home (back roads for 10 miles), identified the issue, insulated and secured the wire and no issue since. It is odd that yours seems only to happen in 4wd forward though makes me think that it is electrical in nature. I can not recall anyone replacing that seal and the few that have taken the box apart said it was a pain? Go with a JY part if you can, otherwise MY1PATH identified a company in Oregon or Warshington (RedHat or something) that does a good job rebuilding PS boxes. Good luck man, I don't really know where to point you with your primary issue... B

Several people have plugged the EGR piping without any harm done other than it won't pass smog, at least visually. Many headers don't even have the ERG provision, Thorleys do being CARB compliant. If it works right it is a positive system from what I have read, but doesn't seem necessary. Really?? B

Yes, if you have a 1991, you have torsion bars. The 31" tires are 10.5" wide and won't fit 10" rims well, but they will probably seal ok and won't be much wider. Again, it comes down to the back spacing and the ride height of your Pathy. Can you get some junk 31" tires mounted to the rims to test?? B

Hmmm, interesting. I wonder if the spacing between the racks is the same in both, if the seat widths are the same and if the racks are bolted in the same position. It could mean there is more room for the R50 center console, but the seats are offset wider and that interferes with door panels in the WD21, or something? I'll try to take some measurements of both in the next few days to get an idea of the big picture. B