Precise1

Yeah, sorry about that but there is a limited number of categories allowed and I couldn't fit it in. The diesel boys got left out too... B

No Bud, I'm afraid it is not that simple. Here, check it out... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20182&mode=show&st= B

Yes, and no, not necessarily. There is a poll around here that shows it is hard to predict... B

4.63 is the same gearing as the VG30 and VG33 as per my 1995 WD21 and the wife's 1999.0 R50. It's a great motor, I drove one for 10 years in a D720 king cab 4x4... B

Yep, Adam set you straight. You might have failing bearings in the alternator also. Pop the hood and rev the motor by hand with your head in there to see where it is coming from. You should see plenty next week Bud... B

I'm not to swift with electrical issues but yes, I'd start tracking voltage with a meter. Hope it warms up some; worked up a sweat today changing a timing belt... B

Nope, NGK BKR5ES; factory standard. I'm beginning to wonder if these are the original plugs. Can plugs last 256,000 miles?? Think of all the $ you would save on tune ups!! B

So what was your trick? I couldn't get mine to budge, and that was at home with heat and I bent a pitman arm puller while pounding on the arm with a hand sledge. I finally gave up and that doesn't happen often... B

Dude, it is a minivan now... B

Also, consider getting factory Nissan parts from this guy, he knows the vehicles and has great prices. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653 For example, I'm about to do a timing belt change for some inlaws and didn't have time to order from him or I would have. Autozone price for water pump=$70 Factorynissanparts.com=$87 My local stealership bastages=$137 I'll happily pay an extra $17 for the Nissan part, but no was in hell will I pay an extra $67. B

I've used Pam myself, nice girl... I hit my Pathfinder with the garden waste bin when I moved it. The bin, that is... B

Again, caution is best followed and advised. If you aren't sure or don't feel familiar with it, be careful or don't even touch it. This is a simple life rules that applies to everything from compressed air to your neighbor's daughter... All jokes aside, follow safety principles at all times!! It is complex but to set a standard, a .22 long rifle bullet with 100ft/lbs of energy can kill you, and not just if it hits you in the head just right. That means a 3 gram projectile launched at 1000 FPS is the same thing. A source of compressed air can accelerate 3 grams (.1 oz) quickly, but it is a function of PSI and time accelerated. 100 PSI will need some sort of focus point (barrel) to launch a projectile to that sort of speed. I am not being blase or advising anyone to be incautious though. Copy on that, I have seen the videos myself. I have grabbed blown flex air lines, worked down to the end, grabbed it and capped it off with my thumb enough times to know it works just fine. I have butted my hand to the end of a copper air line to seal it temporarily; I do have strong hands and tradesman conditioning. Again, do not do this at home!! I really don't see a problem with most small air tanks at shop pressures (90-120psi) with proper handling, storage and precautions. B

ep, that was my first culprit. Do yourself a favor, take them apart, clean them well and then very lightly grease them and reassemble, they should be more reliable and release after backing up 1 wheel diameter max, not .7 miles. Grease lightly, more is not better!! B

Odd, I have never heard of that and I have worked with shop air for decades. My guess is that this is only with large volume tanks and is highly unusual. We are talking about 2-5 gallon tanks here and you can't add up the entire surface area, multiply it by the pressure and say that is the stress. If that was the case, your body would be crushed in an instant where you stand. LOL!! Ok, now something like an air cylinder that launches a projectile out of a bore is a completely different situation, and yes, this can be dangerous, but it is a function of the mass/velocity of the projectile. I have and will shut off shop air leaks (blown lines and even air pipes) with my bare hand (120 psi). It really isn't dangerous, they are used day in and day out in almost every industry without rampant deaths and injury. Accidents can always happen, but hell, you can kill yourself with a pensil if you try hard enough. No problem, always error on the side of comfort/caution, especially with you wife and kids!! B

Damn, it would work for me if it was 2-2.5" but it looks like 3" will put it visibly low. Yeah, I only have a 2" lift. Too bad, you do really nice work. B

I doubt you would have more than 90-100 PSI in the tank. Atmospheric pressure is almost 15 psi at sea level so its only 6-7x pressure. It is quite safe, even if it was breached it would just vent, not burst or shrapnel. You are thinking of scuba tank pressures 1500+psi) and yes, those can be dangerous... There was someone who made square wall tubing sliders, sealed them and used them for compressed air storage. Seemed to work just fine but I'm not sure of the volume... B

This. Grab a long, large Philips head screw driver and simply hand tighten the valve cover screws. I bet you get 1/2-1 turn a piece. I have worked on 5 Pathys so far (3 WD21 and 2 R50) and every one of them needed the valve cover screws tightened, and none of them have leaked since. Don't waste your time and $ on changing the gasket yet... B

Was it lifted by the frame letting the axle droop?? Do you have your rear sway bar and or longer shocks?? It could be this only happens on a lift... B

3 gauge version. If you only need two of the mounts, you can put a mirror in the 3rd... B

The Four(4) Reasons I Change My Own Oil, by B #1 It isn't hard for me and the 1/2 hour I spend on it I will also use to check all fluids, tires, look around underneath, maybe lube things, etc. #2 I'm a cheap bastage. I buy cases of Mobil 1 at Costco for about $27 when they are on sale ($4.5ea) and store them on a shelf until I need them. With a Mobil 1 filter from Autozone, I'm looking at about $30 for a full synthetic change; try to find that at the dealer or Kwik Lube! #3 Due to various (bad) experiences over the years, I have a hard time trusting other people with working on my vehicles. I currently do not know of any mechanic in the area that I would use which is why I am waiting for Derek to move. Still, for something like and oil change, see #1 and #2. #4 I don't have to leave the house to do it. By the time I drive, wait and drive again, I haven't saved any time and maybe lost some. Right. Twice. From what I recall working at a dealership, the only reason they sell cars is so they will be serviced there and buy the factory parts sold there. Those are the two profitable departments when run correctly. The show room often hardly pays for it's self... They do care, see above... Have you priced one? Please do so and report back... Exactly! These days more people don't pay attention to their vehicles and convenience is key. They generally last a long time even with neglect, less and less people work on their vehicles and people tend to turn over cars more often so who cares if you only have it for 50,000 miles. For an oil change? What the hell did you call me?!? B

Damn, I didn't think of that!! Wait, 316 or 420?? B

Oh, my... The most common steel out there is low carbon or mild steel and boy is it soft, 10-20 Rockwell C. It is malleable. Read this... We won't go into case hardening, air hardening, oil quenching or any of that. The stock item is steel. Do me a favor, see if a magnet sticks to it. People have had trouble with every plug of that type on the vehicle, it seems random as to which is tighter. I damn near tore my arms off getting my front diff drain out... When was the last time the plug was removed? Corrosion? Heat cycles? Actual amount torqued? Was it lubricated? Variables ad nauseum... I dare say the factory had the right tool that fit perfectly. Odds are it was 13mm not 12.7mm like you are using which is .012" undersized, but actually .017" across the hypotenuse in the best case scenario. I admire your conviction but do you mean to ask questions when you make statements instead? B

You are welcome, and yeah, you figured out what I was saying. If you have any experience with shop tools, hungry ones will use 15+ CFM @90 psi so 50 CFM is a massive draw. B

200-350 depending... http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html 50% O2 would take some serious tanks for anything other than a moments effect. I'm not a tuner but with these, generally speaking, go turbo or go home... Seriously, intake, cam, headers, exhaust is about as much as you can do in smog areas and that won't even get you to 200hp. A 3.3L with the same might. I plan to try it someday... B

As simple as the WD21 systems are, I think you'll find they are more dynamic than that. I don't think it matters pre or post MAF because you are talking about a system that runs hundreds of CFM through a 2" opening so it is not going to notice if you introduce a trickle of O2. What will notice (if anything) is the O2 sensor and there isn't much of a way around that without replacing the ECU with a Nistune or whatever the aftermarket ecus are called. People have installed VG33s in WD21s with all the VG30 components and they run well, so the system can adjust for at least 10% displacement change. I doubt you will see a significant performance gain injecting a little O2, but it might help over all gas mileage... B