Precise1

Hubs, center link, tie rod ends, wheel bearings. I bet it is one of these and it sounds like you know how to check them. Hopefully it is just a sticking hub and cleaning it is all it takes... B

So, a 1998 Pathy with 254k showed up at my place yesterday needing an exam after being parked for 2(?) years and yes, it started up and was driven a few miles to my house. I found a lot of the usual things; valve covers loose, top off fluids, coolant leak, exhaust leak, needs a tune up but the condition of the spark plugs surprised me. It easily gapped at over .09"!! I stacked my 3 thickest feeler gauges and that wasn't enough. I foolishly didn't note the brand/type of plug so I'll pull it again tomorrow and use calipers to measure the gap!! The pathy started and ran pretty smoothly considering it needs cap, rotor, plugs and wires. What this tells me is how strong the ignition system and current is. I've had a couple of mechanics make comments about the same and I have experienced likewise. No pictures, but my first 1995 Pathy would stumble occasionally in 1st and I ignored it until it began to happen while shifting into second. It turns out the there was no center electrode in the distributor cap and the spark was arcing from the rusted and recessed center electrode spring down to the rotor, melting a crater into the cap's center. That spark had to jump at least .25" (6mm) if not more!! And it ran quite well!! I would not have believed it if I had not seen it... I'll dig up the pictures of the spark plugs out of the wife's R50 with 150k on them, the electrode is burnt down at a 45 degree angle. While I'm not a paid mechanic, I'm not used to seeing plugs like that. Any experiences to share?? B

Try tightening them first. They might be loose, not the stud being broken... B

Nope, no clocking or alignment or anything. I have the MM locking hubs on my wife's 1999.0 and there are no issues... If it just feels like 4wd in the steering, I agree that is just the difference of the CV shaft turning. It could be that they are stiff or binding... If it is still actually still in 4wd, it is a transfer case/indicator issue. You have a 4x4 shifter not a knob selector, right? B

Over in 1... B

Git out of this thread so you are in the General section. Scroll down to the bottom of the page. Under the last thread listed is a dark blue bar that runs across the screen. In the middle it should say something like "Click here to set filter options". Click it and it will come up. I'm not sure if it is a global set or just for whatever section you are in but that should be easy to figure out. B

Don't forget to check the 'remember these settings' box so you don't have to do it each time... B

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^ Yep, IIRC. We have a winch discussion thread somewhere where in I believe the same was said. I personally got a Smittybilt XJ-8 from 4 wheel parts for $250 or $300, on sale of course. For that price, if it saves my butt once, it paid for it's self!! B

I always found it odd that some people said their BGF AT KOs were really good in the rain and snow while others said they were terrible. I always figured it was a difference in expectation and driving habits, but yesterday I saw this... Quoted from the Tirerack web site. It seems that some are better than others for snow (and one would assume wet as well) so buyer be warned and dont assume. Or just move the hell away from snow... B

BFG AT do no better in the mud than most AT tires, which = not impressive. Hey, they weren't designed for it... Sorry he said it better than I did the first time. Slow down just means whatever you have been doing is too fast (regardless of how fast it is) if spinning out is a repetitive thing!! I'm just concerned about life and limb. That's why I recommended a few... B

Exactly!! B

The UHMW PE is used primarily for severe industrial abuse applications so yes, it works well for this. Plastic ones, of course. 1/2 the reason to is the bounce back factor, the other is it is far easier to wrap around your exhaust... B

Are you implying I have saggy panels?? B

Pictures already!! All that for $850?? B

By all means, go see what you can find. Heck look in the 'parts wanted' section to see of you can set someone up with a random part too. I doubt you'll find much armor for the Pathys. There isn't a lot from the factory and what there is isn't exactly robust or impressive... No. What you want to do is glue trash can lids under your truck using epoxy. Make sure to cover the length of the exhaust very well... B

Well, at least you found the problem even if you haven't solved it yet. Work like that can be trouble if you don't have the right tools/shop equipment... B

I'm glad there wasn't any injury or damage, but... the second time?? SLOW DOWN!! That said, even though you don't go off road most AT tires perform admirably in wet weather, and you have the benefit of better traction if you ever need it. I cant see getting aquatreads for more $ if an AT is virtually as good. I highly recommend the Yokohama Geolander AT/S. They are on the wife's 1999.0 Pathy and I think they are great. No noise at all, great wet traction, no noticeable rolling resistance and a reasonable price. Most here that has these tires likes them. Another good all around tire is the Michelin LTX M&S. The price should be close to the same and again, most here who has had them liked them for what they are. The BFG AT KO is another great tire, but in all honesty if you don't intend to off road much I think the Yokohamas are a better choice. If you are off road a lot, then the BGFs are the ones to get. B

Makes sense to me. Have a pleasant trip/visit... B

There are no hard numbers and remember, you need to upgrade the stock intake to maximize the benefits of headers. It's all what you use it for. If you are a Wrok Krawler, yeah, you want torque. If you play in the dunes, you want high rpm power. If you drive it on the street and want passing power, you want high rpm power. No set up is good for everything, that why people have so many different builds... B

I highly recommend you measure from the ground to the center of the body crease, it is easy and one thing that won't change from truck to truck. Some have fender flares, some don't, some have trimmed them, some have warped, etc. You get it... That said, let me go find that measurement for you. B This is with a 2" suspension lift, 2" body lift and 31" tires. In case you need a visual... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24287&view=findpost&p=443011

Tranny jack. Back the tranny up, get the motor in place and bolted down, then slide the tranny forward to attach it to the motor using a tranny jack. That is if the lower doesn't apply... This was my first thought... B

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM240831037P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM209385941 Other than that, do what you can with tweezers or whatever, but if it stays in, fill the rear with the right amount of cheap oil, drive for 100 miles and change it.... B

Not that I have heard of, but I know a few people have brought it up as something they would like to do. B

I don't recall if the FSM specified but cold is easier and hot is the 'operating temp' although I have to assume the fuel and spraying it keeps them cooler which must be why mine only acted up after it sat hot and was restarted. In other words, I dont know. Check both ways. B