Precise1

This will give a little bit stiffer ride though as you can see from any ricer with cut coils. What coil thickness is the spring you used for this experiment and what is it's length? B

Sorry, yes, I did miss that part, I have to rush sometimes at work. Still, with those links you should be able to extrapolate the information you need. Sorry, I can't recall any one place that will have exactly the information you want. B

Reverse needs the highest line pressure so you could have a clogged stock tranny cooler (in the radiator). It is a common killer that lets the tranny overheat. Make sure the tranny cooler is not obstructed or just bypass it for a test. Most of us bypass it completely and run an aftermarket cooler. Plenty of threads and discussions about it here... B

I'd be surprised if they are the same as the WD21. 1995=last model year of WD21, 1996=first model year of R50... B

Working on a pin/merge question for several good write-ups. B

Yeah, I bought some cheap and cheesy waterproof relays for my rewiring. For once, please realize that you do not know everything nor is everything you do the best way to do things, much less the only. Different strokes for different folks, man, that's what keeps it interesting... B

Start here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9142&st=0&p=126869&hl=springs&fromsearch=1entry126869 then http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&st=60 and http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8166&st=0&p=108314&hl=springs&fromsearch=1entry108314 maybe http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9564&st=0&p=136212&hl=springs&fromsearch=1entry136212 perhaps http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14269&st=0&p=236824&hl=springs&fromsearch=1entry236824 B

I'm pretty sure there already is one in the Garage/How To. I'll look for it and see about merging or whatever. B

I wouldn't really bet on that, it's not exactly hermetically sealed. Unless you RTV'd every seal and the drain hole, the seals are more for dust and grime as you said. Perfect example... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31044&view=findpost&p=590938 B

That very well could be correct because the recommended change interval is also every 4 years; This would be something a dealership would recommend. I changed the suspected original T-belt on my 95 in 2009 with about 98k miles on it. It didn't appear to have suffered from age, but the vehicle spent 13 of those years in NorCal and there were no significant leaks. Sounds like you should be changing your belt soon. Don't worry, it's not that hard. Contact Alkorahil for great prices on factory parts. B

Hey, if you do get that Pathy, you'll have to stop by. I have a condenser and lines and maybe some other AC parts you can have cheap and easy. B

As was said... How many miles on the vehicle? The change interval is 105k so that might be a clue. Can you contact the old owner to ask, it's worth the trouble. B

I haven't dealt with the PaceMaker headers, I installed Thorley headers and took it to a local exhaust shop for custom piping. They did a good job at a good price. What I can say is to check the through bore of the headers, some have had poor welds which choked off the inside diameter. B Wait!! The hole in the headers should be for the EGR tube, right?

Slick idea, the good thing is that if the hydraulic jack starts leaking, it would be pretty damn easy to replace it with something more reliable. B

Certainly Sir!! This is actually at dusk, the DSLR flash went off and all 6 lights are on (headlight relay mod not installed). The top lights are Hella 540 amber; the picture actually shows the relative brightness well and the Optilux are bright!! B

Exactly, a hand torch set up should be sufficient for 95% of automotive needs excluding welding, of course... B

Well, if you were closer, I have 3 or 4 of them that do work... B

Agreed, you can pick up a breaker bar for about $25 and once it has prevented someone from seeing you in an embryonic position, it has paid for it's self. As for your fetal contortions, I had to do something similar. I had to anchor myself via legs to a tire otherwise all I did was pull ups underneath the Pathy hanging from the breaker bar handle... Odds are that it hasn't been in 4WD much. The front differential only turns when 4WD is engaged. B

x4 on the relay/wiring upgrade. If you still feel the need for more illumination, I run a set of these and highly recommend them. They only draw 35 watts eacvh so you don't have to upgrade other components to run them... http://www.amazon.com/Optilux-H71020171-HID-Driving-Lamp/dp/B002NZOWQS B

What he said. Bottle jacks work just fine, often have greater lift and take less space than a floor jack but aren't quite as convenient. The stock Nissan bottle jack works quite well, I'm assuming your truck didn't come with one? B

Measure what size bushing you need and hit the local hardware store, you'd be surprised. I wouldn't want to run with out them long term, you should be able to find what you need at a junk yard also. That said, the local auto parts store might have some... B

The dipstick reading the dipstick perhaps?? I put in straight 4 qts and it reads correctly, but I also have a oil filter relocation kit and run a PH8a size equivalent filter so that probably traps the balance. B

A lot of times you just have to chase problems down by eliminating the likely and easy things first, it narrows the field down quickly. k9sar wrote up how to 'rebuild' your starter (same with 88pathoffroad IIRC) so you might be able to save some $ that way or at least have a spare. FYI, some people have reported trouble with remanufactured starters so keep the receipt, and maybe even have then bench test it before you leave the store... B

It's all about the draw that a connection can make. Too much draw and connection fails, component doesn't work. The starter is the highest draw of anything on most vehicles... Yes, there is a relay, usually a yellow piece off of the positive terminal, but it may vary due to year/model. Weak cranking but spinning surge and firing is usually due to working up compression/fuel/air in the cylinders and getting a cylinder to fire correctly. Once one fires, it drives enough to take the load and the others start firing (at least with a well tuned motor that wants to start). Start with the voltages after checking the connections, most problems can be solved there... B

Check all the battery/starter connections, especially the ground all the way to the chassis, frame and engine. Probably the #1 reason for poor cranking when the battery is fine. From there it could be the starter but remember that it is the amps that push the starter, not the voltage. Do this:Hook up your multimeter to the battery (not having cranked it recently) with the key off. Turn the ignition on and see how much it drops, then try to crank it and see how much more it drops. If there is a large drop (2 volts or more?) your battery may not have the amperage required anymore. Load testing will tell you, most autoparts stores will do this. B