Precise1

Let me start by saying that if you like the vehicle and if it is in decent shape, then it is worth fixing. The record so far (that I have heard) is over 500k miles on a WD21 so you can get more out of it. Look here in the Classified section to see if anyone is parting out a truck, good condition used heads are probably the best way for you to go. If you do decide to replace the motor, you can get them used for $500-750 so don't dispair. It's really what you feel better about doing, and doing it yourself would make it cost effective. Even having a shop do the work will be cheaper than buying something else... B

Most people put their tranny cooler up in front of the AC condensor where it works the best. Make sure to get the thin (3/4") stacked plate design for best fit and efficiency. There are several threads on how/what/why and I run a spin on type filter myself. B

With this type of issue I always recommend checking the connections at the battery terminals, at the starter (check the voltage there also) and most importantly and often overlooked, the ground wire contact points to the chassis and engine. If these are all good then you know it is not a current issue per se. B

Altitude, barometric pressure and wind speed? B

LOL Sorry, but as a machinist, it makes me chuckle that a piece of vacuum hose is used as a drill stop. What matters though is the results, so if it works for you, good job! I actually like this idea. I have a XT rack to install, but I've never pulled a headliner. How hard it is to remove/reinstall correctly? B

This! Sounds like a trade too good to be true. What work has he done and how well? Done in a week and done like crap does you no good either. I'd do some homework before I'd commit my truck, but mine needs to be road worthy also... B

From what I know, trim is a problem. It degrades quickly, the factory parts are rediculously expensive and there are no known (to me) direct fit after market sources. It is not a prority that I have followed so hopefully there are sources I don't know of and I am proven wrong; I have several pieces that need replacing. B

^ This. The stock bushings can be difficult to remove, the most common is to burn them out with a torch but people have cut, drilled and pressed. Likewise, I went with aftermarley UCAs. When you have the bushings removed, make sure that the spindle is straight, I made that mistake once... Yes, thank you for the heads up, the Admin are working on it so please be patient. The move was necessary and has gone quite smoothly on the whole. B

WTH?? This is one of the cheapest, most worthwhile/paying for it's self mod ever. Get on it, man!! Yep, I have the same set up as k9sar location wise, but I run a single filter. Fram PH-8a equivalent size (about the most common available) in Bosch form (want to say 3200). I'm guessing the difference in size equals +50-100% filtration media so duals seemed overkill, especually in such a tight area. Glad I did it and don't look back other than saying install the adapter first, then the lines using a crows foot. That would have saved me a lot of time and grief back then... B

Thanks! You started it, so I figured I'd post the usual suspects. I'm pretty sure there is a thread on this in the new members section... I had to clean that up a bit, it barely made sense when I re-read it. Sorry.

Good Man! There aren't too many known failure points and I'd argue that all have been discussed here so looking around is well worth the effort. Here is a basic issue list that may or may not apply to you. Auto tranny cooler, manual tranny fill level, manual tranny GL-4 only, frame rust, body rust, exhaust burn under drivers foot, tension rod bushing, center link and idler arm being front end weak points, fuel rail hoses leaking, liter tap, not changing the timing belt and WTF is up with the oil filter location? You shouldn't even be able to get the 'stock' studs any more, they were inadequate. The replacement should be the 300zx turbo studs (same dimensions, different grade) and if you do buy them, call Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy). On line dealership parts at almost local auto parts store prices and he knows exactly what you need (he's on his second or third wd21). WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COM phone 1-866-742-0297 Exactly right and it was I, among others. M8x1.28x30mm hex head bolts. No issues yet but I haven't put a lot of miles on it recently. Yes, one stud/warsher/nut was aprox $5 so $30 a side. Some think it's worth the dime for piece of mind, I think it is a ridiculous price for simple fasteners and I happened to have a box of them... As long as you don't have much rust or none are broken sub-surface in the head, you won't have much problem removing them with the right tool (I used two old nuts counter torqued) and if you do one, do all, especially if you are installing headers. Headers won't put more strain on them, but if you go that far, go all the way! B

Some people have had no problems with their pase setters for the W21 and others have had to rework and massage them. To me their biggest short coming is that they aren't coated, the paint burns off the first day and then the rust begins... Thorley does still make the headers but usually in batches or group buys. Call Steven at Rugged Rocks (look at the vendors section here), I'm pretty sure he'll know that latest status. Thorleys are more expensive, but not $300 more, I paid $409 to my door 2 years ago through Rocky Road Outfitters. I had to use Thorleys because the Pace Setters aren't CARB legal, but I would have chosen the Thorleys regardless. Oh, Mr510 in Warshington just started offering headers also with ball flanges and ceramic coating. I believe they are the most expensive of the 3 and I have not seen the product but he seems to do good work. B

Calling Nunya in 3...2...1... B

That's called Driving While Redneck... How was it too tall from bumper to ground if it has no bumpers?? B

Nunya, you should tell people that you only change your oil once a year or it is false advertising... Changing a fuel filter every year is like changing your plugs every 10,000 miles but if you like throwing $ away, it is yours to throw... Today I broke the roof rack on the R50... B

Well, it doesn't sound good, but it might not be a goner yet. What condition is the tranny fluid? If it was rebuilt in 2006, 30,000 miles ago, I'm assuming it is the what was put in when it was rebuilt? Sometimes the stock cooler in the radiator can clog (fully or partially) and reduce the line pressure and/or increase the temp of the tranny (heat is bad for automagics) and I assume it gets pretty hot down in Tejas. Many of us bypass the stock cooler for an after market unit but that may not help you now. If it was my truck I would check the condition of the fluid (replacing it if it is old/brown) and make sure the stock cooler in the radiator is clear. You could also just bypass the cooler (hook the in and out lines together) with the current fluid to see if it drives/shifts any different, just dont drive it far!! If this tranny is shot, definitely follow silvertons advice, those trannys are a heavy duty version of what you have now and will be far cheaper than a rebuild, especially if you do it yourself... good luck and keep us informed. B

Good point! Ahh, I get it now. I have sold vehicles with and without recent, valid smog certs. Either I take care of it and pass the cost along to the buyer or sell it AS-IS with no gaurentees. With a little luck I won't be buying another vehicle for years so I won't have to deal with that part... B

Good write up, Thanks! We are going to have to get the 3-4 threads merged and pin them. Good find on the specialty jack nuts, I just got the standard coated ones in 1/4-20. Napa auto parts, if that helps anyone. Now, if only I could find a Xterra roof rack. They are scarce around here but then I haven't been looking as hard as I could... You are talking about the rivnuts James? Never riveted before and I've used the expanding dry wall inserts with great success so I have faith in the jack nuts. Oh, also no rivet gun and am pretty cheap. B

That's odd, those are all smog manditory areas. B

What are you considering the Bay Area? B

Show off!! B

Unfortunately, there are a lot of things that could be going on so it's really hard to make suggestions. I have had fuel filters become partially blocked that made the vehicle stumble and miss... B

Good Lord, Man! Just leave them on, your truck will run better... I was going to say leaky injector, exhaust leak, cat issue or O2. You disproved the first and fixed the second so only two left. How did the cat look? Glad you got it sorted out, I've dealt with Bay Area smog laws all my life and it can be a problem sometimes. B

Can't help with the first part but yeah, the plastic bits break easily. I'm pretty sure you can buy them from the dealer and that we have a thread around here on what the part #'s were. I'll search for it later if I have the time. B

All correct. I don't have a FSM, but I'm pretty sure I have a Chiltons or Hayes manual in the garage; thought I daw it when I moved and was surprised I still had it. Let me see if I can find it tomorrow and I can look up what I can or just send it to you. Again, let me try to find it, the garage is a mess. B