Precise1

100-250. If you don't hit 100, there is a serious problem. If you clear 250, there is a serious problem. That is the proper range... B

Neither can I but I don't know the BTU transfer rate, much less the needs of the big V8ers. The number I have in my head 180*F max sustained, preferably lower and without spikes from what I have read.1 thing as important is to try to maintain a relatively even temperature. If the temp is going up and down constantly, all moving parts are shrinking and growing (more than you would think with synthetic materials and polymers). if your motor temp fluctuated by 50 degrees constantly, it wouldn't run nearly long. Either in the pan (My1Path bought or made a banjo bolt drain plug with the sender in it. Pretty clever and should be accurate but maybe not respond as quickly, or in the out line to the cooler. I put mine in before the inline filter in a brass T block. I say before the cooler since I want to know the tranny temp. Being able to switch back and forth would be cool as you could see the temp drop. Only after the cooler doesn't tell you the tranny temp so I strongly recommend you dont do it. Lastly, did you not search? This is all very well documented... B

Someone else put thiers in the same place, sparking the debate if it is wise or not. Too out in th open for me, but looks like a good install. Probably one of the best places is straight back on mounted on top of the cross member. If I ever need more room under the hood, that's probably what I'll do... B

Volt meter, oil pressure and undecided. The first two my truck doesn't have stock and either water temp, or turbo boost for the 3rd. For people with AT, this is a great opportunity (and place) to put a tranny temp gauge. Not boiling the tranny is the best way not to prematurely destroy them. B

Ok, yes, I had something similar, one side bottomed out and seemed short, the other tightened up on an unthreaded portion or something and was long enough for the threads in the oil filter to properly engage. I simply tightened it as much I could by hand and gave it another torque with pliers (and wood) IIRC. Never had a problem, the oil filter counter tightens it and isn't that tight anyway. The gasket stops vibration from loosening anything. I wouldn't put any locktite in the oil flow. B

I'm glad your daughter is up, about and focused on maiming herself. Well, you know what i mean... Cool, looks like crap, how does it fit? I know, I know, it's just the fitment mock-up. Hell, we are closer than ever before!! B

Are you talking about what the oil filter actually screws onto, the 1"-16 (or whatever) threaded pipe? B

The temp sensor is for the ECU (there is another for the temp gauge), but if it was running rich the whole time, the plugs would show it. I agree, start with the vacuum lines to get them out of the way, and check the EGR valve function. It could be sticking or clogged. B

We have a heated O2 sensor, so it doesn't work until it and the exhaust gasses are hot. It will always smell rich before then. You could have a minor fuel/vapor leak instead? This tells me there is no issue when everything is warmed up. Plugs don't lie, I've been reading them for 30 years and they have never steered me wrong. You could still have a vacuum leak though, check with a flammable aerosol, I prefer WD-40 but Aquanet will work just as well... B

You didn't eat them?!? B

Cool! Slowly but surely... B

Yes, it is little but a screen and can be cleaned. For longevity, advised is an inline filter and cooler, says Noda... Excellent rebuttal! B

I installed a 2" body lift which lessens the issue and have a D21(hardbody pickup) shifter installed (they are bent differently due tio a factory 1.5" lift) courtesy of the awesome Admin here, Redpath88. Heating and bending or cutting and welding the shifter is really the prefered method over cutting the sheet metal, but to each their own. Plenty of writeups on the mods... It should be in it's settled state when you start the work, as long as it is flat and level. When you make adjustments (mainly for the front) bounce/move (better, drive) it after adjustments and let it settle for a bit before measuring. If you crank the front end high, expect to have to align the wheels. B

I had need of a hitch and no vehicles with one, no R50's in the local junkyard, no knowledge of model fitment issues (ours has the underslung spare a hitch has to go around) and no desire to waste time on it. After a brief search, I found a curved tubular Reese hitch (#33050) that fit the bill as a class 3 500/5,000lb hitch. Autozone has them for $160 (with a $10 mail in rebate), and will ship to your local store without charge. Fitment is perfect, zero issues other than having to remove some smog canister (assumed) type stuff to get all 8 bolts in (hardware included) and replace it after. B

That's pretty straight forward. My advice with the front is leave it on the ground (or only lightly jacked to reduce effort), grease/oil the threads on the adjustment bolts, and just crank the height from there. Bounce the front end a few times to let things adjust (drive it around the block), but don't adjust in the air. Everyhting will spring and not give you good feedback right away... B

Damn!! You are so insider informed, I'm surprised Obama hasn't added you as an advisor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111!!! That's a good looking pathy, and clean as hell. I hope he enjoy's it and if not, send it down here, I have plans for it... B

That looks like a decent find, especially the way it is set up. I'm digging the 5sp and external carrier, that alone makes it valuable in my book. Don't worry about the mileage, we bought a 1999.0 2.5 years ago for $4k with 150k on it (loaded SE, leather, sunroof, heated seats/mirrors, a/t, etc). So far I've done a tune up, replaced one injector, bought a set of tires, manual hubs and a trailer hitch. It's at 170k now without any sign of issues other than needing some suspension work (duh!). I recently went over an inlaws 1997 R50 with 256k on it that was poorly maintained. It fired right up and ran like a champ even though when I pulled the plugs the electrode was burnt off so the gap was over .09". The VG motor is great, with the 33 beating out the 30, especially when you mix some parts.The rest of the truck will last with basic and reasonable maintainence barring rust or crashes. Fix what it needs and enjoy your world class reliable ride... B

If you don't care about the cost, I say replace them. Obviously keep your old ones for trail spares, but of course they will have wear at 140k miles unless you have manual locking hubs. Safe than sorry in my book and I say this with a R50 with 170k on it (last 10k with manual hubs) with what I assume are the stock CVs Note to anyone with a 1996-2004, get a set of manual hubs. You can get them for under $100, you will instantly get better mileage (1-3 MPG), especially on the highway and you will not wear your CVs during normal driving. The good news is that if you ever have to work on it again soon, you are familiar with it and everything has been apart recently so shouldn't be rusted together. B

It braces the lower arm quite well in the opposite direction of travel, which makes sense really. Without it I think the bushings in the lower arm wouldn't last nearly as long and those are a hell of a lot harder to replace. Also, it was a 'proven' design, my D720 has an almost identical set up. Really, the only thing they did wrong is not make it a regular maintence item. B

/\This! Nunya?? You can read? B

B Both of them!!

Personally, I'm just talking about a movable solor panel/battery set up that isn't hooked to the grid that only supplies very basic needs, the important ones. Check out this set up, it is plenty to keep the beer cold, heat up a hot plate and charge your phone/radio/flashlight. The solar panels are 2'x4' and only 25 lbs, you could even take one and 2 batterys camping. Mounted on my roof on the back side, or in the back yard, no one would ever see them and it's not that tempting of a target. http://www.wholesalesolar.com/backup/1000-watt-home-solar-battery-backup-system.html Read Farnham's Freehold, the first 1/2 says the same thing. B

Probably not as much as you think, and it isn't all 'complete' either. It's what I've collected for a while, mostly just for outdoor activities. These, of course, apply in an emergency. It's also a sensible precaution living in an active fault zone. Hell, Yellowstone could even make my day. B

Sorry, but I think you misunderstand what I meant. Nothing wrong with tinkering (hell, it's actually supported here), I was just stating that the ignition is strong stock and that means people haven't messed with it much. I'd like better power and gas mileage also and have done a lot of work to try to achieve both. What I've wound up with is something that is arguably improved from stock in both clearance, power, armor, etc but might have lost a little mileage. Yes, my Pathy is our escape pod too. Yes, if I ever have to evacuate, it would be in our WD21 which is being set up for expedition type adventures. I doubt it would be socio-economic reasons though, more like natural disasters; things aren't nearly bad enough for society breakdown and I doubt it wil ever be. I'm talking about volcanos, earthquakes, tidal waves, etc. I don't agree that it was irrelevant, unnecessary, etc. You tried something new and works for you. That's actually considered a success... This is something everyone needs to consider, if only briefly. In the event of a catastrophy, what do you do? My wife and I have discussed where to meet and/or what to if it isn't immediately possible. We have a stock of basic food and supplies for a month, water filtration/purification, basic camping equipment/gear, a vehicle set up for remote travel, and some means to defend ourselves. The last bit I want is a home solar system that charges a few deep cell batteries that have a power inverter attached. I'm not looking to power the clothes washing machine, I just want to be able to charge batteries, run refridgeration part time, purify water, power lighting, etc. Our basic set up isn't a big deal or expensive per se, but it should give us a better chance if the grid stops working. B

Definitely get the Ezploder unit that is so common. The one in my garage measures 11+"x7+"x3/4" and is stacked plate, so I'd expect it to perform close to the "B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler" 11" x 7-1/4" x 3/4" model is rated at 13.000 BTU, and pressure tested to 200 PSI Close enough in my book. Honestly, due to so many different driving situations, gearing, tire size, elevation, temperature, etc. The only way to know if you are getting sufficient cooling is with a temp gaige. I plan to run from the tranny to the temp sender/filter, to the radiator cooler to the aftermarket cooler back to the tranny. This should keep the temperature the most stable, yet still keep it cooler than stock and avoid spikes. I want the tranny to run at the same temp as much as possible... B