Precise1

I didn't know Nisssan made a 4wd Sentra Wagon... I did think that you should consider one of these then Yeah, the Pathys don't get the best mileage, but I view the light maintenence and repair to ofset the added cost of gas. That and I don't log a lot of miles. Don't mind Tungsten, he has issues... B

Yes, i used Autozone and didn't hvae any issues with installation/fitment and they have zerk holes so make sure you have the appropriate fittings too. I only drove the Pathy for about 20k miles after replacement before getting rid of it, but no issues in that time... B

I had the same problem with 1 injector on our R50. It only acted up when shut off hot and restarted before it cooled. Tested fine cold, failed hot. Yes, that is the best way to do it AFAIC. You will still have some fuel dump into the cylinder so you might want to blow it clear by cranking it (only if it is safe, obviously). You are welcome. B

That is just because you can't drive a Man Tranny! (waits) How many miles on the 95? I'm thinking to pull the engine and tranny from the 91 regardless (and dumping it for what you can after part out), and installing the auto tranny you have a lead on as long as you know it is good. Having a spare motor handy or converting to MT are both advised as well. Depends on the shape of the 95 and if you plan to rust proof it. B

Why do you bother? B

Haha! That's awesome! I felt like I was watching the intro to a Godzilla movie or something. I would have stupid fun with that... B

*snort* Extremely well as opposed to... adequate? How does one tell? I am certain they have a continued production supply system. Timing belts are undeniably tough, but rubber breaks down in our atmosphere so it would not be a good idea have huge inventories regardless of the company expense side of it. B

I generally advise against using wheel spacers as they can cause balancing issues, parallelism issues and some wheel studs arent designed for having a load cantelevered, etc. You are far better buying rims that maximize wheel size and position for the tires you want to run, with or without any suspension lift. I don't know the answers off hand, but I'm certain it is easily located in the R50 section. B

^Yep, exactly. The keys seem to be to lubricate the O-ring and give it a little twisting to assist in the removal/installation. Don't force it though as you will either tear the o-ring (bad) or twist the top cap of the injector injector without the bottom part moving (bad). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29686-change-fuel-injector/page__p__563495__hl__+injector%20+removal#entry563495 B

Ok, you are right, I misunderstood. B

Interstate colors are green and white, I don't know if any other brand has the same color scheme... http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/Vehicle B

Bleed the brakes? What type of noise is it and any idea where it comes from? B

Honestly, when you are talking voltage drop , 20 millivolts could be explained by temperature alone. I think you are over analizing the drop over 20 days, and even that much drop would still start the vehicle fine. Go have it load tested and see what the amperage is. Have you checked all the connections, including ground at the chassis and motor? How many volts does the battery drop down to when you crank it? I have had batteries slowly die and catastrophocally fail (6 volts after 2 mile drive and 8 hour rest), but your symptoms don't seem to match either... B

I have a Optima Yellow Top in my current WD21 that I bought used 3 years ago. Works great so if you are willing to pony up, you can't loose in my book. http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en/products/yellowtop/ In the past I have found Sears Diehard and Interstate batteries to be consistenty reliable, well warrantied and fairly priced. I'm not sure if you have easy access to them or not... B

Yes, the other fill option that is better than nothing is to tip the truck as much as possible. I can't recall who did this, but it seemed to work with the warning of having to tip it considerably so be save, obviously. B

Yes, that is exactly it. Other than sports cars and huge trucks, vehicles simply didn't have the same amount of power back then as they do now. It's only been the last 10-15 years that the average sedan has to have 300+hp to get to the store... B

Up to a point, yes, but remember that the T-belt is enclosed on the front of the engine around the water pump so you can assume the operating temperature is much hotter than being parked on a hot day. This is part of my arguement to drive the vehicle on a frequent basis though as timing belt tensioned and never rotating could 'set' in position, shortening it's effective life when rotating. I've seen this with fan belts as well, so it's good to spin things regularly. Automotive/industrial rubbers last a surprisingly long time under harsh conditions. Just consider a radiator hose and the temperature changes, heat and pressure they deal with for years and even decades before failing. I suspect inaction is a bigger factor in damage than ambient temperature. B

*snort* I'd say to do your best to drive it once a week, even if it is only 5 miles (after you warm it up) to keep the battery charged, all fluids cycled, flex the suspension, spin the tires, etc. This will keep it ready for moments notice type duty. Keep the gas tank @ 1/4 or less and use some gas stabilizer as mentioned. Don't worry about not putting a lot of miles on it, that means you'll have it a lot longer! (I'm in a similar position, my Pathy only drives a few thousand miles a year and is a 1995 with 106k on it now.) Nunya is another extremely low mileage annual mileage driver and he changes his oil annually. Timing belts have a recommended age limit as well as mileage (4 years IIRC), but when I changed the 13 year old timing belt on my current pathy (@ 98k miles) it still looked good with no significant cracking or shredding so don't worry about the duration as much as mileage. Well, at least in moderate climes without road salt, etc... B

Well, 1/2 of that was answered right off, I think. The changes that I know of are mainly the exterior trim and bumpers, the 1999.5+ having a more protruding front bumper. OP, post a picture or two and we'll identify the beast... B

Exactly. We own a 1999.0 model and sometimes I'll request parts for 1998 just so there isn't any confusion... B

And then there is the experienced and educated opinion which may differ. B

Looks good! Any change in performance? Where did you source the hat? I like the thought of using the heavy rubber tubing for the bends, that simplifies things a lot and should dampen it as well. B

The villager is non-interference, Ford insisted it needed to be so (good call actually) but I can't recall if they used the same version motor for the Quest. I know it's been discussed, so maybe a search? It sounds like JamesRich knows... B

Adjust accelerator and cruise wires? You can disassemble the MAF and clean the 3 elements. Be very gentle and I recommend using alcohol, preferably tequila. JK, isopropyl of course and a Q tip. Make sure all the pins in the connector are in place and well connected, some dielectric grease couldn't hurt. Hopefully that will deal with any MAF issues. I honestly don't know and it depends on what rim and back spacing you are using too. B

OK, if it is mainly for camping/back country, you want a good AT tire at least, perhaps a MT, the receiver winch is a great idea, and you probably want a suspension lift for ground and tire clearance. I'd stop there to see how it fairs for your needs. How deep can you ford? Ask Devonianwalk... Basically, you don't want to try anything deeper than the hood and since the airbox in in the front corner, the initial dip can cause problems, not to mention if you get stuck mid crossing. I highly recommend caution and preperation before you consider any serious maritime adventures. Look in the R50 section to read up on lifts and tire size/backspacing. B