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gregnash

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE V6 ~180k
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Location
    Carson City, Nevada USA

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  1. Thanks Alkorahil... where are you located and how much would shipping be to 89703 for the LH cowl and clip/finisher?
  2. Looking to replace a couple of things and found that I am going to have to purchase them rather than find a pathy in the local pick n pull. 1. the plastic covers on the hood cowl. I recently lost one while going through the car wash? Can I purchase these anywhere? 2. door arm rest pad, need them in blue 3. Dash cap in blue? is this something that is easy to replace? 4. Trip meters? both have stopped working but the speedo and mileage meter work fine Thanks for the help.
  3. Took the driver side door panel off to inspect the lock and it is trashed so locks will eventually need to be replaced. Was able to fix the rear hatch problem and then passenger side rear door exterior handle never opened the door. Figured out that it was just the plastic piece inside was worn and so used some of the washers I purchased for the rear hatch and whala, it works again!!!
  4. yeah I know the friend ended up purchasing something else before we were able to gift it to her. Forgot to update that.
  5. Cleaned out the heater area as prescribed by the thread and there were a ton of leaves in there. Pulled passenger door panel off to play with the track and lubed it up with some spray lubricant I had in the garage and seems to be working better now. Window goes down perfectly and a little slow on the up. Next thing to tackle was the door locks and you can hear the door lock timer clicking but no dice? Think it needs to be replaced? After that tried pulling the rear hatch panel off and playing with things in there to get the light to stop coming on. Seemed to work last night but this morning she is coming on again. Anyone know where the sensor for the "door ajar" light is on the rear hatch? Would figure I should just disconnect at this point. I put it up on craigslist for $2000 and have gotten a couple calls so far. Will have to take her for an oil change and to get an estimate on the brakes. Oh and the drives side door lock is done I think. Put the key in the lock and instead of it turning the lock then entire lock body turns in the door? Thoughts and opinions?
  6. There is an access panel on each side that allows you to get to the bulbs for the rear lights. Basically take that access panel off (just comes off on my 93) then do like the doors, grab the panel from the opening and give a good hard tug. Entire panel pops off for you to see everything. My door lock timer was marked.
  7. SO used this and thought I would help out with some images. First to remove the glove box you must reach behind the box (from the bottom) and in each corner there is a small black lever. Rotate down and then pull it out (there will be a slight pop) Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr From there, once you remove both sides, the glovebox will pretty much just fall out exposing a black metal panel with 6 screws (4 of which are 10mm heads) Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr After you get the panel off you will find the heater core, A/C and venting as stated in one of the other posts above. Right in front of you should be a metal piece that has a wire clip plugged into it. You will be removing this. Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr Once removed, stand back and exclaim "(Expletive of course)!!!! There is a lot of CRAP in there. Now grab your trusty shop vac and go to town. Note: there are 4 small clips that hold the bottom section of the heater core cover to the top. It looks as though there are two screws on the bottom as well and if you removed all this you should be able to get the bottom tray off and do a bit better job cleaning. Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr You should be good to go now, reverse your order and put everything back together. Remember to full install the glovebox prior to putting the retaining pegs (or whatever they are) in place as it will align the holes properly.
  8. Bummer I think the door lock timer is ok as I am hearing a clicking coming from it but the locks will not move on mine. Any other ideas?
  9. well finally got a chance to check the Tranny oil and seems fine. No weird smells and still has a slight redish color to it. Next thing will be to tear into the dash and doors this weekend to attempt to remove debris and clean up locks/windows. I have listed it on CL to see if I can get any bites for it as I found a local cruiser that I would like to purchase. I need to take some pics of her when she is clean so I will post some up here.
  10. Figure that if I get time this weekend I will attempt to pull the door panels off and work on the windows/locks at that point in time. I remember there being a write-up for the rear hatch issue but since the site changed I cannot seem to find it (has been at least a year since I was on here last. Now that I actually have a house with a garage I need to invest in some things like a 1ton jack, jack stands, ramps, wheel chauks, etc. so that I can do stuff like this and then when I get my FJ60 I can do my own work there too. Nice tip with the drinking straw Slartibartfast, definitely will save some time and frustration. As for the stock or aftermarket tranny cooler, I believe that it is just the stock one so I will have to crawl under the truck and find out. I remember there being a big write-up/post about doing a small parasitic one that was from like a ford escort or something but again cant seem to find it. Appreciate the help and the FSM!!!
  11. Thanks for the info. Was hoping that the window/lock issues were simple. Shop quoted me over $500 for the locks alone be it that they got in there and motor/actuator was bad. Windows was same thing on the chance that the motor was going. Basically when the recently replaced the starter they didn't pop the door panels to take a look. I need to pull it into the garage and see about popping the door panels myself. Tranny was replaced shortly after we bought it (so about 5yrs ago) and it was a remanufactured. Fluid hasn't been replaced since then but have probably just driven it the 15k miles. I will have to pull the tranny dip stick and take a look see how she is. Probably could use a tranny/tcase flush. Unfortunately, new job has funds severely limited so I am trying to do as much as I can on my own with what I have.
  12. Just had mine replaced and it was the original... 201k on it so not to bad at all.
  13. So my 93 Pathy finally has hit over 200k miles and she is starting to show her age. I will be moving on to another vehicle in the near future and the wife and I plan to give this to a friend that needs A) something with 4 doors (currently she drives a VW Rabbit convertible in the High Desert winters), and something with 4x4 for those few weeks every year that we get some bad snow/ice. Anyways, here is a list of things I know need to be done to her and I would like to get some wrenching time in instead of necessarily paying a shop.... 1) Driver's side door lock is no longer operational and when a key is inserted and you attempt to turn you end up forcing the entire lock to turn 2) Power door locks no longer function. You can hear that the lock is attempting to move however something is either gummed up or there is a short 3) Rear hatch causes interior lights to turn on ALL the time (remember reading about this as an easy fix but cant seem to find the thread) 4) Heater blower has something in it and thus has a very loud hum as though it is being thrown off balance (think some leaves got in there) 5) Hard shift when cold. Seems to happen mostly when it is cold but comes up every once in a while where it will not shift from first to second without either A) me dumping my foot in it hard or a pull over and restart 6) Drivers window has a small catch at bottom of roll down 7) Passenger window rolls up VERY slowly in cold weather 8) Brakes are due for a change (how hard is this to do with ABS? Am I better off taking to my local $99 brakes) She needs a lot done to her but she is very driveable and dependable. Only reason I am planning to get rid of her is because I need something bigger (and have been in love with FJ60s for years)to haul the dogs, bikes, etc. around. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get and FSM or will a Chilton's be fine for most of the work?
  14. I have a similar problem with mine... Usually when it "tries" to work you can hear a slight electrical click on that side but nothing happens. I have found that taking the switch panel off and mucking with the wires seems to get it working again. But for me I think mine is a bit of a different problem as the power door locks seem to go out about the same time the window decides to stop working. If I can bang, curse, spit and muck with that door enough to get one working the other seems to as well. Speaking of... anyone know of a guide to properly take the door panel off without destroying the clips? Think this would help so I can get in there with multimeter to check cus I have an odd feeling I have a weird ground issue on that side.
  15. Two for me... 1. 7yr old Yellow Lab / Pit Mix 2. 3yr old German Short Hair / Pit Mix (you have never met a crazier, more energetic dog) They are our children so they go everywhere!!
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