- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
Precise1
Moderator-
Posts
42,909 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
207
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by Precise1
-
You wheeled your R50?? It has to be pointed out though, the only people that have rust issues live in places that spread corrosives on the roadways. The majority of pathys enjoy a salt free existence and do not suffer. B
-
Yesterday actually, but I wire wheeled the flaking black paint and zinc plating off of my SuperLift UCAs, surface treated the steel with tool black, primered them and finished them with gloss black enamel. I refinished the spindles also so I'll probably assemble them with the new bushings and hardware today so they are ready for installation. B
-
His info says 1998 (r50) so the JGC coils and idler arm doesn't apply to him, correct? As for the hole in the headlight, I drove a D720 for 10 years that had a hole in one headlight. It would fill 1/2 up with water every winter and slosh around. The light never failed so don't worry about yours other than watching the part out section for when you can buy a cheap replacement. For all those other questions, I highly recommend you go to the R50 section (1996-2004) and read up. B
-
Nice!! I'll have to try to catch that in another 4 years or so... I took the upper control arms apart, cursed the guy I bought the assemblies from, went to work and wire wheeled everything, went to the hardware store to buy replacement washers and called it a day... B
-
Yeah, pretty much... Fixed that for you... Thanks Mookie and 88Pathoffroad for your contributions. B
-
Did I just lose the clutch slave cylinder or something worse?
Precise1 replied to blackboat's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Hey Rob, it sounds to me like your clutch fork broke, the throw out bearing/carrier broke or the pressure plate let go, in order of suspected issues. I'm guessing that the slave cylinder over extended when the fork (or whatever) let go. I strongly suspect that the tranny will have to be pulled to fix it. Here is a thought though, a few people have replaced the clutch without dropping the tranny. They loosened the tranny, dropped the cross member with the T-bars in it and scooted the trannt back enough to get in there. If you can get some decent help and a tranny jack, you might be able to manage that and it's a lot less work. Asked for or not, hang is there Bud. Sorry to hear about the ruined trip, that would be a big let down. I hope you pull through quickly and get another go at it next month... B -
Tire shine on a MT?? For me it was, although Costco had the same price but were backordered for months. Discount tire also has mount/balance/valve stem/weights for $15 per tire with free life time balancing and rotation. I've bought 2 sets of tires from them and never had any complaints... B
-
Glad to hear you and yours are ok, but sorry about the pathy. Nunya is very experienced with wrecked vehicles so he is probably right with his assessment, unfortunately. Link doesn't work for people who boycott Facebeek... B
-
Nope, we leave them laying around in case someone else's pathy won't start at Taco Bell... B
-
350HP twin turbo 1995 Pathfinder buildup
Precise1 replied to slick250's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Does it pass smog tests?? B -
Talk to this guy, Rob Lacy. Great, knowledgable guy with the best dealership prices I have heard of... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18653 B
-
Check all wiring first. Battery terminal contact, ground contact, starter contact, etc. Then follow voltage down line to the starter to see what it is getting. If there is a huge drop, I believe k9sar did the best write up guide for that. If you can't find it, tell me and I'll try. Sounds to me like a connection issue... B
-
Good points, but does't the wd21's have a 5 link rear?? Because in the (retarded) view of the average consumer, newer is better and change is good. This does have it's place, but only to a refinement level. Once you hit redesign, all bets are off... Knowing the WD21 well, the R50 1/2 way and the R51 not at all, this is my useless opinion. WD21 for rugged/off road applications(preferably modified). R50 for some off road(preferably modified) with more asphalt applications. R51 for ferrying the family to Walmart. The WD21 set the trend and expectation level for the vehicle. The R50 tried to keep up with that with a total redesign and didn't do too bad, all things considered, but it is inherently more limited(OBD2 is a good thing IMHO). The R51 is in left field compared to the WD21 so WD22 here we go (and install a 5 link). B
-
It would help if you list them... No I have not heard of that combination, but I suspect you have some significant MAF sensor wiring issues. I'd address that first and then clear the codes to see if the other even shows again. I recommend you download the FSM (pinned in the Garage section) for the specific pin/troubleshooting information. B
-
Is it worth having a vehicle repaired at a dealer repair shop?
Precise1 replied to jwblue's topic in The Garage
I go to a mechanic only if there is something I don't have the time or ability to do myself, and usually then I go to a dealer. Odds are that they will do a better job (unless you go to a specialized shop), rather than a general garage. That said, one of the best mechanics I knew owned a gas station with 2 bays... Simply put, for most of my life I didn't have enough $ to afford a mechanic and I'm a gear head anyway, so I learned. Now that I have my own house with garage, I wouldn't hesitate to build a motor or repair a tranny (manuals and the internet are great!). The dealership here charges $130/hr and quite frankly, that is robbery. I would have to work a week to cover 1 day of repairs so I'm far better off spending 1-2 days working on the truck myself... I have had people try to rip me off, even after I had informed them that I am a machinist and generally do my own mechanics. I have caught others making simple, stupid mistakes too so I don't always trust other people to work on my vehicles. B -
I'm not a sheet metal guy but from what I know, any type of threaded insert in a channel will be difficult to seal, especially if it is load bearing... B
-
I've been looking for about a year (when I remember) but no Xterras, so $20 is a deal in my book... Ok, I get it now. I wasn't sure what you were doing there, but should have suspected you would address it well. B
-
Please... Yes, I think it does, but I see it has been removed, are you not attaching it to the rail? Also, what year/gen Xterra did you get it off of? B
-
I think it looks damn good, so hurry up and send it to me so I can mount it. B
-
Nope, not at all, especially coming from the Z24. The kingcab 4x4 I had suffered from the 4th gear blues on every hill. The power output is somewhere between a mortally wounded hamster and an electric toothbrush. (106hp from the factory IIFC) The VG30 is a powerhouse compared, especially when you upgrade intake and headers. Weren't you the one that mentioned a 139hp 302 V8?? Now that's gutless!! B
-
Damn, hell of a problem to have, especially because parts for the later years are everywhere. There was a thread on who had the earliest production date vehicle. Maybe look that up and PM the early ones for spare parts?? B
-
Check out my thread on in-line tranny filters and temp gauges, if you are going to cool it, you should read the temp also... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29350&st=0&gopid=574628entry574628 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503&st=0&p=447214&hl=+temp%20+gauge&fromsearch=1entry447214 Yep, it should help things a bit and certainly won't hurt. Run it inline after the stock radiator cooler. B
-
Ok, a little bit of an update. I found some better sources for a basic tranny filter set up. This place sells the Champion Labs PH254 filter (what Derale rebadges for $17!!) for $4.89 + shipping. http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/08170/icn/20-079756/champion_lab/ph253.htm Also, the Champion Labs filter is cross referenced with AC Delco PF13 and CarQuest 85085. (Thanks Nunya) I plan to disect these filters to see if there is any significant difference. Here is the Trans-dapt filter mount for $13.99 + shipping http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/1028/10002/-1?parentProductId=749339 Throw in a couple of barbed line fittings and some hose and you are all set for no particulate in your tranny fluid. B
-
I'm thinking the the biggest gains will show on the highway, not city driving; too many other variables. Yep, one of the best mods to do to a R50. I bought a set of Mile Marker hubs for the wife's 99.0 on sale at 4 Wheel Parts for $90 so they have probably already paid for themselves... B
-
You have the superior 1995 model, I don't think all years have the ignition lock fail safe or whatever it is called. B
