Precise1

Do you see anything like this when you look underneath? As was said, start by checking the tranny fluid for level and cleaniless. Does the tranny act normally otherwise (when it shifts, how long it takes when put in gear, reverse)? Is the check engine light on? Was there any event when this started? Also, you can go here and download the FSM that will tell you how to check the TCU. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/ B

Pictures please? We like pictures... B

Sorry Harbinger, I never solved that isssue, rather it solved it's self. By the time I got back to addressing it, I found the bulb had burned out... Done!! I do plan to go back and revisit it when I put in the new A pillar gauge pods so let me know what worked for you... B One thought, are you grounded through the wiring harness or off of an independent point like me? It might make a difference, although I do not know why. Hell, I don't know why the illumination was backwards to begin with!

Started it. B

Damn, a picture would really help right about now... B

I totally understand, my initial reaction is to swerve also, that's the normal response. I guess I didn't say it right, just saying the if you have the time to make a conscious decision, in many circumstances it is better hit one animal than involving/hurting a human, including yourself obviously. Hey, it's not like I cruise around looking for pets to run down... Glad you got your truck back and it's correctly repaired. I advocate an aftermarket bumper to everyone who wants to keep their pathy. The stock one is so flimsy that it doesn't take much to have serious damage in a minor accident. B

Damn, I swear I already posted a response. Or at least I typed it... What he said. Step one would be to put on a new timing belt and then doing a compression check. You might have gotten lucky, some have... B

Cool!! (I was mildly concerned that it would in a timely manner) Sorry it took so long... YAY and Thanks again Bud! B

Hey Bud, How have you been? I understand what you are saying very well; I bought a house myself, about 1.5 years ago and it's been non stop work to the point that my WD21 isn't roadworth or legal at the moment. I do have the wife's R50 I can drive though, so I get by. Still, one of my next priorities is to get mine back on the road and it might be worth it for you to do the same, meaning repair it. You could put off new car payments for a few more years (you know how reliable Pathys are) and you won't be busy forever. You obviously know your situation better though and will do what makes sense. Just something to think about. Oh, you don't have to own a Pathy to drop by either. B

Yep, I got under the truck last night and that is exactly what I measured on my 1995, so yes, Nunya is tape measure literate!! B

I did make noise about making some mounts a while ago. I should be laid off soon, so that might actually happen... B

Were the threads stripped or is this a case for Loctite? Really, they don't fit? Damn, I have one and a couple sets of hinges of hinges in the garage that I guess I won't mount begore the X-terra rack. Any pictures of what you mean? B

BRING IN THE LEECHES!!! B

First time I have ever heard of that so I'd have to assume that the threads were somehow damaged before it actually failed. B

Grab it at 2 and 10 and drive it home!! JK It's all good advice and can all be done at the same time. The point is, figure out what is loose/wiggles. Sometimes there will be more than one thing so don't stop looking right away, you might find more. Remember, the truck weight on the wheel and driving forces move things far easier than you can... B

It was sent 7/7/12 so no, I'd expect a few more days. When is the final date?? I'll Western Union you with a Candy-Gram for Mongo if it comes down to the wire... B

Jack that corner up by the frame and let the tire droop. Then wiggle the tire around while you or someone else is watching, you'll quickly see what the issue(s) is(are). Please, make sure it is properly supported with jack stand and back up block/jack. B

Check your upper ball joint, upper control arm, UCA bushings and the bolts holding the UCA on. It's quick and easy, so do it before anything comes completely loose and does real damage. About the brakes, I'm starting to chase a poor braking issue myself. Step one is make sure the pads/shoes have sufficient material on them and aren't contaminated. Make sure there aren't any obvious leaks and then bleed the brakes enough to replace the fluid. Ok, how do they feel then? B

No the rotor doesn't spin if the t-belt is broken, that's one of the ways to check. You could have been lucky not done any real damage (that has happened before) but usually there is some valve damage. Step one would be to put a new belt on it and do a compression check. Motors can be had for $750 or less depending on where it is sourced, the 3.3 can be swapped in but there are a few things that need to be addressed and all the 3.0 furniture has to go on it, so that's labor intensive. In the interest of helping you, I have to recommend you search for the answers to your questions as they have all been well documented and discussed to the point the info can't and won't be repeated here. B

Machinist rule of accuracy: Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe... Ok, I'll take some measurements this evening when I get home and it cools off. I have calipers and straight edges long enough to use on my 1995 parts. B

Of course! That is why you aren't banned... Ok, I didn't think aboot it, I just addressed an envelope to Dowser land, double stamped it and left it for the mailman to pick up. Will it make it? Do I need some special international shipping?? Dowser, I wrote up a long email, but apparently Yahoo didn't like it so it was deleted when I hit 'send'. I'll re-type it tomorrow when I'm not so pissed off... B

That's the way... You have the ability, you just need the space, time and affordable parts. It'll all come together quite well if you want it to. As I machinist, I know this well... B

Ok, nothing miraculous here, but I ran into something trying to get new cross bars for our 1999.0 R50. When the 1997 R50 at the pick and pull had already been scavenged, I looked at an '01, but I was unable to unscrew them and was running out of time for a destructive method (read theft proof and it was getting hot!). I spied a Quest wagon a few rows over (forget the year, but want to say 93 or 95) that had what looked like the same cross bars on it. I grabbed them and went home. At home, I couldn't get them to mount, meaning I couldn't get the thumb wheel screws to properly engage the pathetic little T nut in the roof rack frame. It took longer than I care to admit, but I did figure out the problem and fix it. Do you see it? Do you see it now? Yep, the only real difference I could find was the thumb screw thread length and the retaining method. The Quest screw had 7/8 length but the thread is rolled off into a chamfer or relief at the end so you don't really have that full length thread engagement while the Pathy is threaded full diameter for full length, 1&1/16. The Pathfinder T nut has what looks like a pathetic 4mm max of thread in the T nut and I never stopped to look at the Quest T nut, but I suspect it is much taller to make up for the deficiency and hence the shorter thumb screws. So, all of that said, a Quest cross members will work just fine as long as they are the same style, just measure the length of the screws, or be prepared to swap them out. Under side view of the Quest crossmember Removing the catch clip for the thumb wheel screw. Oddly enough, I couldn't get it to release with a slim blade screw driver, but I could get it to with a heavy bladed knife. Find your tool and be patient, the plastic flexes and doesn't seem brittle. Pathfinder underside, a screw driver and good thumb pressure got them out readily. The worst thing is that yesterday afternoon I glanced at some sheity 90's 4 door Xploder parked next to me and... the roof rack cross member looked exactly the same!! I started to try to unclamp it to take some measurements but managed to stop myself and merely drive home twitching... B

Damn!! I'm glad you didn't roll it so just remember that the repair costs are far less than they could have been, or simply loss of your truck. Yes, I will say it; next time just hit the dog. It's actually safer for you and the people around you and that is what really matters. Sure, you will feel bad and don't want to do it, but I know of people that have killed themselves trying to save an animal. As someone who killed a deer on the freeway on a motorcycle, I practice what I preach. B

^ Now there is a good idea. Gut some salvaged seats (if you can find any) and use them as the compartment lids! B