morpheus

Pop your hood and look at the top of the struts. theres an electronic actuator at the top of each. remove the actuator and install regular non-adjustable ones. they will bolt right up.

hose clamp around the other 1/2 thats rattling. tighten to hold it from rattling

The locksmith may have the equipment to program them.

If you want to be extra cautious, clean it up after cleaning out the vent and recheck it in a week or two. It would be a shame to do all that work for nothing.

You definatly have the startings of an axle seal leak. 1st thing is to check that diff vent you mentioned and make sure it isn't clogged. a clogged vent will make the pressure build in the diff and force oil past the seals. I also agree that it's a minor leak. clean it up as best you can with brake clean, check the vent and don't worry too much about it. It won't affect your braking unless the oil gets on the brake shoes.

The 2003 pathfinder uses a microchipped key. It looks like this There is an antenna in the key cylinder that reads the microchip when you put the key in the ignition and decices if it is an authorized key or not. Your truck would use a key with a part# of H0564-5Y700 or H0564-4Z000 (they are both the same) Canadian retail pricing on the key is $108.57 (club price $92.28) The key needs to be programmed onto the vehicle with any existing keys that you have, that's why the vehicle must go to the shop. The consult is used to program the keys into the vehicle's computer. Shops will usually charge 0.5 to 1.0 hours labor to do this (I charge 0.5, or $45). Sounds like you're getting a quote of 1.0 plus the key would make it around the $200 mark. Simply having a key inside the vehicle will not work. You are thinking about the new I-key's for the newest vehicle models like this Those won't work on your vehicle. As for the remote starter. There are 2 ways people install those things. The first way is the cheap - read WRONG way of doing it. They disconnect the antenna from the lock cylinder, hide a key under the dash and wrap the antenna around it. This allows the remote starter to read a good key all the time and start the vehicle. With this type of system, you can use a regular non-chipped key and start the vehicle every time. The 2nd way - read the right way - is there is a little box under the dash that wires into the system and sends a signal when the remote starter activates and allows it to start. If that is your system, if you start the vehicle with the remote starter, then simply put a non-chipped key in the ignition, as soon as you touch the brake pedal, the remote starter would shut off, then the system would see a non-chipped key in the system. chances are that it would set a code in the system that a non-authorized key is being used, the vehicle would probaly stay running, but as soon as you shut it off, it probably wouldn't start, even with the remote starter. It would probably go into a kind of "theft" mode that would make you wait 30 minutes before restarting. not a big deal if you drive to work, but a pain in the ass if you just stopped at the store. There are aftermarket microchipped keys available, I've seen them in the $50 range, but I have no experience with them, as I've never used them. If you want to explore this route, look in the yellowpages under locksmiths in your're area, and call some up for some quotes. Most good locksmiths will also have the ability to program the keys too, or at least supply you with one that you can have programmed at the dealer.

Elongating the bottom holes used to be common practice. Now you can purchace adjustable camber bolts from NAPA that as you rotate them adjusts the angle for you. As far as the top holes.... I don't think thats a good idea.

http://www.phonebusters.com/english/recogn...t_warranty.html

If there's codes, the all-mode probably won't function. Reset all the codes (you'll need a scanner that can access the all-mode, not just engine) and recheck. Chances are they towed it with 2 wheels on the ground, otherwise there would be no codes set. If it was a short distance, there shouldn't be any damage, if it was a longer distance, there could be.

Auto hubs are complicated little pieces.. if you don't get them back together right, they don't work. Even if you only have a problem on one side, you won't have any 4wd. Manual hubs are very simple, only 3-4 pieces to them, and install in a matter of minutes.

Cross canada lists a black grille for $178 bucks. Probably would look a lot better than paint. Might be able to get one from a salvage yard.

When it comes to plugs, I've always recommended running what the factory made. If it's a Nissan, use NGK, if it's a gm use ACdelco, Ford use Motorcraft. Can't just use the old plugs till you can get ngk's?

We sell an alternator for an 05 pathy (pt# 23100-EA20A) for $447.15 retail, $380.08 club price. to say you were raped is an understatement.

I've only ordered from them once, my lift springs. didn't really have any problems, i think it was about 1.5-2 weeks before i got them. The packaging kind of sucked, box was pretty banged up, but i can't blame that on them, that's ups's fault.

why do i get the feeling that everyone in this thread is 6 years old...

All I use WD40 for is disolving the crap left behind from stickers

Anyone notice the price in the window changed 1/2 way through?

... drive it like a rental ...

Unlikely that it's "never" been run if there's gas in it. They are shipped bone dry. If it was dry, brand new, never used, then pull out the spark plug. Check inside the boot that goes on the end of the plug, check for corrosion and clean as required. Put a new plug in it, as the electrode/ground is probably rusted. Squirt a small amount of oil/fuel mix into the cylinder before putting the new plug back in. Prime/choke/pull ------ If it had gas in the tank when you got it, then it's been run, there's been fuel in the carburator that has since evaporated, and left a varnish/gummy residue in there. The diaphrams, when left coated with gas to evaporate, curl up and dry out. If that's the case, your best bet is to take it into a small engine shop, for probably a carb overhaul, or to someone who knows how to to that kind of stuff.

There it is... I guess I'm S.O.L.

Depends on the mileage of the motor. Since you were driving it when it broke, most likely there is piston/valve contact. New (or rebuilt) heads and a new belt would certanly fix it, but if the bottom end has a lot of mileage on it, you might not be doing yourself any favours. You might want to look for a low mileage used motor and just swap the whole thing.

Ya, I'm not going to risk it for the possibility of a couple bucks of free chicken, that even if it was legit, probably isn't honoured in canada anyways. Sounds like a cornflicker loader to me.

An unknown link that wants to install software on my computer just to print a coupon? hmmmmmm..

Weight reduction is usually used in the drag racing world. Here's a sample of what ideas they have:

LMAO! I will once I get some new offroad pics... (front bumper coming very soon too)