morpheus

If you're looking for something to tow with, go with a 2000-2004 with the 3.5L engine. Much better for that. (The 1996-1999 came with the 3.3L) Automatic 5000 lbs Manual 3500 lbs Or if you can spend more, the 05+ Pathfinder has a 6000 lbs towing capacity, but they no longer offered a manual transmission in 05+ If you're looking for something thats easy to modify for the trails, stick to 95 or under, there's a lot more support for those. There's next to nothing for 96-04 pathfinders.

Ya, the more I think about it, and research around, the more I think 2" is probably a better idea. The only thing that might change that is if I measure the stock front pipes and find they're bigger than 2", but I doubt they are. I didn't pay attention to the size of the pipes last time I looked, I was more paying attention to if there was enough clearance for the headers.

ok, you all talked me into it I guess... I found a guy to do a dyno run for $50 cash, so what's another $100 bucks on top of the existing project, right?? lol..

I priced the thorley headers, and at double the price, I can't justify it. I'd love to do a dyno run, but I'm not even sure where there is one around here, nor do I have any concept on what it would cost to do it.

I originally was thinking 2.5", but some of the stuff I was reading included pipe diameters for engine HP. 2.25 seemed like the next logical step. I was going to measure up the current pipe diameter next time I've got the truck on the hoist and use that as a judgement tool. As for the cylinder heads, I came across a lot of maxima guys doing head swaps for power gains, but my goal is not to increase HP, it's to increase torque and for free-flowing exhaust for better fuel effency, and also to sound better.

If you want to get an accurate reading on your fuel consumption, fill till full, then drive exactly 100 miles (or as close as you can) and then fill back up. If you repeat this process 3-5 times and then average out the numbers you'll get a much more accurate idea. If you find that the consumption seems "OK" then without taking the sending unit apart and actually measuring resistance's from it, you could always put a jerry can of fuel in the back and see just how far you can go till it runs out of fuel. If you get an extra 200 miles past empty, then you know there's either a sending unit problem, or a guage problem.

So I've decided to start my build of a complete custom exhaust on my R50, including headers, high flow cats, etc... I'm going to start ordering parts in december, and start to put it together once I've got everything. I'm starting with: Pacesetter headers, listed for 1995 Pathfinder: I have already ordered exhaust manifold gaskets for both the 1995 and 1998, and have verified that all the exhaust ports and studs line up, the only thing I will need to do is drill out the stud holes to the larger 1998 size vs the smaller 1995 size. Then I will run custom 2.25" dual pipes to dual magnaflow catalytic converters: Then again, custom pipes into a dual input/output magnaflow muffler: And then out to a dual tailpipe.. Anyone with comments/suggestions feel free to add them, as this is a completely custom job, as far as I can tell no one has successfully done it yet, at least not what I can find by googling..

One of my bigger concerns is still passing emissions.. I know I can modify and re-weld the headers and completely build a custom exhaust. I intend on putting 2 highflow cats for each side, but if I fail emissions after all is said and done, I'm FUBAR'ED.

I've had Nige's pathfinder in the shop today, and my truck. Took a really good look between the two, and I think there's way more room in the R50 due to the cat's being there, as compared to the tighter space on his. I would almost hazard a guess that the only reason the R50 isn't listed as an applications on the various header sites is simply that the factory exhaust will not bolt up to the headers, but I am fully prepared for a full custom exhaust behind the headers. I want to run dual exhaust from the headers to 2 high flow cat's, then into a dual inlet dynomax or flowmaster muffler and then either a single output, or a dual output.. I'm not sure which yet. Oh, and big price difference between the two. From my supplier, the thorley headers are double the pacesetter

So now you've seen the headers upclose, do you have any opinion on if they'll fit the R50 or not? I checked on the pacesetter headers today... they've got them instock, I'm contemplating ordering them....

Just priced one for curiosity sake... Retail $626.38... and they're in stock at the warehouse... gee, I wonder why...

They did have some major problems with them that they identified, and have repaired. Now the competition is using that against Nissan as a marketing ploy at dealerships "Nissan's have transmission problems, it'll cost you $7000 to replace when it goes after 5 years" Nissan's response is basically we'll warranty the transmission for just about as long as you own the car... Most people don't keep vehicles past 10 years or 200,000 km, so they might as well have said "lifetime" warranty. They've also dropped the price by an average of $1300 on a remanufactured transmission to bring the cost down when the vehicle is out of warranty, making it more in line with a normal automatic transmission replacement/rebuild.

If you put manual hubs on, and leave them in the locked position, it will operate exactly as your setup now (drive flanges). You can drive around in the poor weather, or when 4x4 will be most likely used, but get out and flip them to free-wheeling when going on the freeway or everyday normal driving. What you spend on the hubs will pay for it's self in fuel savings in no time.

Don't know if it will affect anyone here, but as of monday Nissan will be announcing a warranty extension on all 2003-2010 Nissan models with a CVT transmission. There will also be a procedure to re-imburse any customers who purchaced a transmission that was out of warranty, that is now under warranty due to the warranty extension. The old warranty was 5 years or 100,000km / 60,000 miles the new warranty will be 10 years or 200,000km / 120,000 miles.

If you're looking at a cherokee bumper for $300 or a guaranteed to fit WD-21 bumper for $500, you have to think of what kind of material cost, and labour cost (even if you're doing it yourself) into the cherokee bumper. I really like the bumper, has worked very well for me this year, winched a couple of times, no issues. Fit and finish is nice, welds were well done. No issues whatsoever. My only regret is not spending the extra money and had the integrated offroad lights in it, but I can always modifiy and add that myself down the road if I want. The onlything with ken mtn, is that althought they deliver exactly what they promise, double whatever the delivery TIME is that they quote you. I don't know if I got them at the busy time of year, but mine almost took twice as long as promised.

These are the guys I got my front bumper from: http://www.kenmtnac.com/WiNissan.html

Oh, definatly, if you've still got the broken piece, take it to the hardware store, they can clamp it in their duplicator and copy it right there. I assumed the broken piece was gone.

Back in the mid 90's, the dealership had to record the key code dring registration, a practice that was usually skipped due to lazyness. Now a days they are recorded right at the factory. Look in your glove box, look for a sticker with a X____ code on it. Thats your keycode. If not, call a local locksmith and ask them how much it will cost to make you a key. They can either use a wax impression, or remove the door lock cylinder and using the tumbler orientation create a key from that. Phone around, expect to pay probably $100-$200 to have it done.

... a cavalier in a sport coat ...

A 99.5-04 brush guard will bolt up to a 96-99, however the support hardware that bolts to the bumper mid way will not fit and would need to be customized. A 96-99 will not fit a 99.5-04 due to the bumper sticking out farther on the 99.5+ A bumper like pezzy's or mine will fit on any year from 96-04 because you're replacing the entire bumper assembly.

you should be fine with a dolly. The cooler is a great idea, even if you were just wheeling. you have to figure a complete car hauler probably weighs at least 1500 lbs by it's self, and if you were thinking about u-haul, they probably wouldn't let you run it with a pathy. They've got pretty strict guidelines. The dolly probably only weighs 300lbs, and if it's the crapalier that you're towing in the pic, it's front wheel drive, so it would work great on a 2 wheel dolly. Make sure if you're renting the dolly from u-haul too, that you stop by ahead of time and make sure they "OK" your vehicle for towing it. I've heard many people show up the day they're supposed to go and they won't let them take it because of stupid reasons.

The only problem about disconnecting the strut from the spindle, is if you have a lift, you most likely have adjustable camber bolts, even if you don't have a lift, someone may have installed them. If so, and you disconnect here, you will have to do an alignment afterwards. Common practice is to disconnect the ball joint. It also gives you a chance to check the balljoint for siezing, or wear. If something is going to go wrong with the balljoint, you'd rather it happen on the hoist then on the road.

Along with the mentioned above issues, check the transmission mount as well for wear or breakage. If everything checks out ok, including all ovbvious driveline bushines, including balljoints, etc... then you might have and issue inside the transmission, or possibly with the clutch release bearing.

I've actually seen more than one person do this modification in real life. The addition of the resistor to the intake air temp sensor tricks the ecu into thinking the outside air temperature is much lower than it actually is. Then the ecm opens the fuel injectors a little longer to allow more fuel in the system, and that's what they're claiming gives you 20HP increase. What they forget to tell you is that your oxygen sensor behind the motor will now tell the ecu that the engine's running too rich, and to shorten the injector cycle, essentially cancelling it's self out. End result? your out $7 for a resistor that costs 0.05c in the first place. Zero performance change.

It can get complicated. Auto tranny fill till proper level on dipstick, ignore fluid capacity completely, becuase that includes torque converter fill as well. It will tell you capacity is something like 8L of fluid, but a drain and fill will only get out about 4L.. Basically, if your vehicle is a 1999 model (ie: metal/chrome bumper and glass headlights) use the 1998 FSM. If yours is a 1999.5 (ie: complete plastic bumper cover and plastic headlights) use the 2000 FSM.