morpheus

I'm pretty sure the main oil pump in the atx14a is run off the main (rear) drive shaft. The secondary pump runs when the vehicle is stopped or in reverse.

Seat belts ARE covered under a lifetime warranty against defects. up till around 2004ish (I think) where they changed them to 10 years, unlimited mileage If the belt is slow to retract, many times it's becuase of the d-ring (the ring above your left shoulder) gets filthy. Take a rag with brake clean, lift the belt off the ring and clean it. Slow retract is a "grey" area. Technically they still work. I would replace them for one of my customers, but other dealers may not. If the belt is completely fubar'ed (ie: pulled all the way out, but won't retract at all) it's a no-brainer, it's warranty. As for the comment above re: color, the warranty system is VIN specific, so if you put a grey belt in the truck that came from factory with blue belts, nissan will not pay for it. The dealer might assume that there is a colour error and order the grey one for you and not even notice.. They'll just have a hard time collecting the money from nissan. The belts may not be in stock anymore, but they can still order them. How long they will take to come in is a different story. I had to order a timing cover for my 300zx once. It took 2 months, but it showed up eventually.

I'm sure the laws are different everywhere, but I think here anything over 3500lbs requires brakes

Got more details today about the brake pin on the big trucks. Looks like during a production run of the brake pedal assemblies the pin that the brake pedal piviots on before the pushrod was not mushroomed at the end after production, it was just left as pressed in. They don't know which pedal assemblies went in what vin#'s by the looks of it, so they are inspecting every vehicle during those years made. They expect a 1% replacement rate, so it sounds like they didn't make many of the pedal assy's with the issue, it's just they don't know what vehicles they went in.

Here's the facts that nissan has released during our conference call this AM. There are 3 recalls Recall 1 - 2009-2010 Armada Titan, and 08-10 Quest Potential for the brake piviot pin to come out of place causing reduced braking ability. Number is incidents in north america - 0 (ZERO) Recall 2 - 05-10 Titan, Armada Potential for the fuel guage to read 1/4 to 1/2 tank of fuel but be actually empty Recall 3 - 06 and 08 frontier xterrra pathfinder Potential for the fuel guage to read 1/4 to 1/2 tank of fuel but be actually empty Nissan is stressing that they are being PRO-active for the brake pedal pin, not RE-active as toyota was with their recalls. There has been no reports of any accidents or injuries. The actual numbers may be 500,000 vehicles worldwide, but the numbers for canada released this morning are: 3900 08-10 Titan's 438 08-10 Armada's 1400 08-09 Quests no numbers were released for the xterra/frontier/pathfinder recall. I will post more information as I recieve it.

I've seen a lot on the R50's. Usually you inspect them when you do belts, and when the rubber shows signs of cracking you want to start thinking about replacing it. Small cracks are not bad, but when they are left for a while the outter part of the pully will seperate from the inner part.

It looks like you might need a tail light too, but it's hard to tell from the pics... I could get it fixed for about $750 (ish), but it would probably be around $1200-$1500 retail to repair. Get several estimates, take 3 that you feel describe the damage the best, average the cost out from the 3 of them and tell the guy to pay you cash for that amount. Then you can buy some sweet christmas presents and worry about fixing it later. If he won't pay, then call the insurance company.

I've seen guys push it to double the recommended change interval and be fine. I've seen guys go 10,000 miles over the recommended change interval and the belt breaks. Moral.. Unless you're a gambling person, and willing to gamble a $5000 engine repair, then change it.

If it's close enough to the surface of the lock, you could try small tweezers.

be thankful you didn't put engine oil in the transmission... ATF in the engine for that long will not hurt it.

The proper remote starters are a royal PITA to make work. You can install one for an AT in the vehicle, and just make sure that it's in neutral with the e-brake on all the time. If you do install a MT version, the most common ones make you follow a set of procedures EVERY time you get out of the car to ensure that there's no way that it can be left in gear. You need to stop the vehicle in your parking space Activate the remote starter while the engine is still running by stepping on he brake and pushing the remote then the remote starter needs to see the e-brake applied (via the brake light switch) then the remote starter needs to see the door open, then close (via the door pin switch) then once you're outside of the truck, then you push the button on the remote again, and the vehicle shuts off Now the remote is acive, because it saw all the above steps, and there's no way you could have gotten out of the vehicle with it still in gear. Now the next morning it will start. If you miss any of the above steps, it will not even attempt to start the next morning, thats why it's easier to simply install an AT unit, and just make sure it's in neutral.

I vote sell, and buy 4x4 mods..

I stand corrected by the gods of wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Pathfinder R51 pathfinder was offered with a 6 speed manual outside of north america..

Maybe it was in 2005, but it had to be a 2004 model. this body style: were never offered in manual transmission *** to the best of my knowledge, maybe they did something different in the USA ***

The rule of thumb is to change it when it hits 3% water or so. You can get test strips that you dunk in the fluid, or more expensive electronic testers will tell you what the water content is. There's no specific schedule, as moisture absorbtion will be different for all driving conditions.. If in doubt, and the fluid looks dark/dirty, then it's cheap insurance to change it. $10 buck or so worth of fluid. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

I had the pleasure of being in florida for spring break.. many, many years ago... oh gawd I feel old... ... I digress.... And I found it funny that every time there was a traffic jam, there was several accidents from people rear-ending others.. Looking at the stunned look on their faces, and then seeing out of state plates on the car just re-assured me that most of the kids around me driving were from smaller towns, that probably never see rush hour traffic, and myself being from toronto, and being used to constant stop/go/stop/go/slam brakes/go.... kept a watchful eye on my rearview mirror every time I had to stop....

If you're looking for something to tow with, go with a 2000-2004 with the 3.5L engine. Much better for that. (The 1996-1999 came with the 3.3L) Automatic 5000 lbs Manual 3500 lbs Or if you can spend more, the 05+ Pathfinder has a 6000 lbs towing capacity, but they no longer offered a manual transmission in 05+ If you're looking for something thats easy to modify for the trails, stick to 95 or under, there's a lot more support for those. There's next to nothing for 96-04 pathfinders.

Ya, the more I think about it, and research around, the more I think 2" is probably a better idea. The only thing that might change that is if I measure the stock front pipes and find they're bigger than 2", but I doubt they are. I didn't pay attention to the size of the pipes last time I looked, I was more paying attention to if there was enough clearance for the headers.

ok, you all talked me into it I guess... I found a guy to do a dyno run for $50 cash, so what's another $100 bucks on top of the existing project, right?? lol..

I priced the thorley headers, and at double the price, I can't justify it. I'd love to do a dyno run, but I'm not even sure where there is one around here, nor do I have any concept on what it would cost to do it.

I originally was thinking 2.5", but some of the stuff I was reading included pipe diameters for engine HP. 2.25 seemed like the next logical step. I was going to measure up the current pipe diameter next time I've got the truck on the hoist and use that as a judgement tool. As for the cylinder heads, I came across a lot of maxima guys doing head swaps for power gains, but my goal is not to increase HP, it's to increase torque and for free-flowing exhaust for better fuel effency, and also to sound better.

If you want to get an accurate reading on your fuel consumption, fill till full, then drive exactly 100 miles (or as close as you can) and then fill back up. If you repeat this process 3-5 times and then average out the numbers you'll get a much more accurate idea. If you find that the consumption seems "OK" then without taking the sending unit apart and actually measuring resistance's from it, you could always put a jerry can of fuel in the back and see just how far you can go till it runs out of fuel. If you get an extra 200 miles past empty, then you know there's either a sending unit problem, or a guage problem.

So I've decided to start my build of a complete custom exhaust on my R50, including headers, high flow cats, etc... I'm going to start ordering parts in december, and start to put it together once I've got everything. I'm starting with: Pacesetter headers, listed for 1995 Pathfinder: I have already ordered exhaust manifold gaskets for both the 1995 and 1998, and have verified that all the exhaust ports and studs line up, the only thing I will need to do is drill out the stud holes to the larger 1998 size vs the smaller 1995 size. Then I will run custom 2.25" dual pipes to dual magnaflow catalytic converters: Then again, custom pipes into a dual input/output magnaflow muffler: And then out to a dual tailpipe.. Anyone with comments/suggestions feel free to add them, as this is a completely custom job, as far as I can tell no one has successfully done it yet, at least not what I can find by googling..

One of my bigger concerns is still passing emissions.. I know I can modify and re-weld the headers and completely build a custom exhaust. I intend on putting 2 highflow cats for each side, but if I fail emissions after all is said and done, I'm FUBAR'ED.

I've had Nige's pathfinder in the shop today, and my truck. Took a really good look between the two, and I think there's way more room in the R50 due to the cat's being there, as compared to the tighter space on his. I would almost hazard a guess that the only reason the R50 isn't listed as an applications on the various header sites is simply that the factory exhaust will not bolt up to the headers, but I am fully prepared for a full custom exhaust behind the headers. I want to run dual exhaust from the headers to 2 high flow cat's, then into a dual inlet dynomax or flowmaster muffler and then either a single output, or a dual output.. I'm not sure which yet. Oh, and big price difference between the two. From my supplier, the thorley headers are double the pacesetter