morpheus

I'm sure I could get a better deal if I committed to maybe 10 pairs at a time instead of 1 pair at a time, but I'm not willing to chance getting stuck with them. Also, don't know what the others were made out of, but these are aircraft grade aluminum. If you want to check on shipping costs, go to www.ups.com and estimate from postal code L9T3H6. Mike.

I have access to a supply of 1" aluminum strut spacers. Spacers are currently $200/pr (CAD) including hardware (Approx $160 USD) or $370/pr (CAD) including hardware, upper strut mounts and bearing. (Approx $290 USD) Plus applicable shipping. PM me if interested, or email me at mikethomson@northendnissan.ca

This might be old information for some, but since someone brought this thread back to life, I'm reading it. The 2000-2001 Maxima's had a major programming probelm with their MAF. Nissan replaced the original MAF 22680-AD200/AD201 with a replacement MAF pt# 22680-2Y001 and created a service file on them. The old number was discontinued. With the new 2Y001 MAF installed, you needed to also reflash the ecu, or the vehicle would not run most of the time. The R50 uses a different MAF 22680-4W000 and there is no service file, or TSB on this MAF. In Canada, both part #'s come as complete assemblies at $599.95, not as a seperate element. Sounds like the USA may supply the same part# but as a different package at a different price.

I'm still waiting for someone to come across that post on a google search and start following the directions....

The plastic strap just broke, it happens. The struts only come with the struts, all the boots, mounts, etc... are extra. The nut being missing... you can use the old one off your existing struts, is it worth the hassle of sending them back and waiting all over a nut? Your call.

11/20 guessing all the way

Well, I don't know about $1000's.. The actual struts are only about $100 bucks more a piece than the regular ones, but a lot of times you find one or both of the actuator motors on the top of the strut don't work, and they're $500 a piece. You wouldn't have to pull the dash, the switches just pop out with a little pursuasion.

If you open your hood and look at the top of the strut mounts, that's where the electronic portion of the adjustable strut is. When the switch in the cab is flipped, the little motors turned an adjustment knob on the top of the strut to change the valving in them. Honestly, I don't think I've ever seen someone replace the electronic versions with the same. The regular struts will bolt right into place, and just toss the electrical motors in the garbage. If you want, you can rewire that switch to do something else (off road lights?) or you could get a switch blank and remove it completely.

Congrats!

With the original head unit gone, the best way to tell if it came with a bose unit would be to pull a door panel and pull out a speaker. If it's a bose speaker, you'll find an amp bolted to it, if not, then you won't. At the dealership we order replacement ones based on the model number right on the head unit, however if you took your VIN# into your local dealership, they may also be able to trace it back for you.

You should be able to get an oil line made cheaper than that. I had replacement hydraulic hoses custom made for our lot snow plow including all the fittings and labour I seem to remember them being around $20-$25 a piece. A standard oil line should be even cheaper.

Follow it through and read... it's a joke..

I use that calculator all the time, great tool. Basically looking for if you run 5 different 31x10.5r15 tires, is there anywhere that would tell you of the 5 which would have the best MPG rating.

Does anyone have any links, or knowledge on how much different tires may affect gas mileage. I'm not refering to tire size specifically, as we all know that bigger trucks and bigger tires will eat fuel, what I'm getting at is more along the lines of different manufactures of the same/similar sizes. Also wondering if load range of a tire would affect mileage too. - ie: higher load range = more rubber = heavier tire?

I just found the best supplier for slush. It works great for filling cracks in igloos, and at creating potholes in the 401. Anyone need the info, just post a message here and I'll send you the link.

I just replaced the clutch on my 98 with 300,000km on it. I just use the clutch for 1st gear accel from lights and usually from 4th to 5th (cause I've missed it too many times to bother) so my 1-2 shift, 2-3 shift and 3-4 shift is usualy done without using the clutch pedal at all. The only time a clutch wears is inbetween your foot being on the floor and fully up position.

I find google's picassa works very well. Totally free, and they give you software for pc or mac that allows you to manage all your pic's, crop, resize, touchup, whatever you need to do, and one click upload to an online album that you can link to the forums from there.

I've used the hankook i-pike's and the bridgestone blizaks. both are excellent tires. No experience with the other's listed.

I've never looked into if you could do it without nissan tools (because I've never had to) If you have access to a service manaual you can look it up. (I'm not at work at the moment to look it up for you) I'm fairly sure that most aftermarket scanners (snapo, etc...) cannot do it, so you might have to go to the dealer to do it. It won't do any damage I would charge a customer 1/2 hour labour to do this procedure, ($45 bucks) so it's not super expensive to do, but I can't speak for other dealers of course..

If it happened right after you disconnected the battery, it won't be a pump issue. Whenever a battery is replaced/disconnected on new-er nissan's (and possibly other makes too) the ecu will loose all it's base settings. In some cases, this will also include window top/bottom settings, sunroof open/close positions, INCLUDING base idle settings. At the shop we would do a procedure caled an "idle air learn" and that would cure your starting problem. I'm not sure if simply driving it would relearn it, but it's worth a try. If not you may need to stop into your local dealer and ask for the above procedure to be done.

Sounds like someone has tried to fix it previously. Get rid of the extra wire, solder the drl and you might just be fine.

All Nissan DTRL modules work on the same principal. Ususally a bad DRL module will make 1 headlight appear burnt out, not both on high beam.

There is a unique engine code stamped on the block (near the belhousing I believe) that can be cross-referenced to the VIN. I don't think it will tell you what the engine was from, but it would give you a yes/no answer to if it matched your vin or not.

Ya, if you're doing the work yourself, it doesn't make sense at all. IMO, the manufacturer extended warranty is the best one to get if you are going to buy one. I've seen so many aftermarket warranties that suck. How about a transmission that the centre seal starts to leak. Manufacturer warranty asks "what is the failed part" the answer is "a part of the transmission" the transmission is covered by warranty, so even if it just needs to be resealed, it is covered. The aftermarket warranty asks "what is the failed part" the answer is "a part of the transmission" the aftermarket warranty says "more specific, what part of the transmission?" the answer is "the transmission centre seal" the aftermarket warranty says "that's not a lubricated part, it's not covered by warranty" The manufacturer warranty will also pay for concequencial damage example: the alternator siezed, caused the belt to come off, wrapped around the fan clutch, which broke off and put a hole throught the radiator. Manufacturer warranty would pay to replace the alternator, AND belt, clutch, and radiator because they were all damaged due to the covered part. Aftermarket warranty would just pay for the alternator, they wouldn't even cover the belt.

We resolder them all the time, and very rarely have we had one that came back and needed a replacement after.