morpheus

The electronic part you are refering to tells the anti-theft computer that the key cylinder has turned, unlocking the car, and not that someone has broken a window and unlocked from the inside, or used a slim-jim through the window to open it. The physical turning part of the electronics might be in the wrong position for the system to know the door is locked or unlocked, or it could have been damaged in the break in attempt. I would not worry about chasing the problem until you can reconnect it to a properly working key cylinder, as this is probably the cause of the locks acting strange.

There is no screw kit for the pathfinder, just the 2.5, but you can use them on the pathfinder with no problems, thats why there is a washer on them.. they're meant for the 2.5l. If you really want to ensure you have no problems, you should remove the manifold and cat to make sure the screw isn't sitting in there. Down the road it could potentially dislodge and re-enter the engine.

It's not weaseling out of anything if it's an obvious error/problem, and anyways, prices are subject to change without notice, or they could honour the price and charge you $900 for shipping and handling.

Ya, it's not bad at all to do, as long as you keep track of where all the hoses and plugs go it's fairly straight forward. A couple hours for someone who's done it before, or an afternoon for someone who hasn't sould be plenty.

To the best of my knowledge, the fact that a company does not issue a recall on something does not mean that they are denying that it exists. Bottom line, is it's not a safety issue, recalls are only issued if there is a safety concern, this is not a safety issue, they will never issue a recall. Is it a royal pain in the ass for someone that it happens to? absolutly. Product campaigns on the other hand are a different story. That's when a manufacturer comes to the table and says.. you know.. we've had so many of these have problems, that we should issue a campaign to have these fixed in the interest of customer satisfaction. For a company to do that, there has to be a certain % of failures, I'm not privy to that number, I have no idea what it is. Do the screws come out? we already know the answer to that. How many vehicles were sold with these in them? what's the % of failure on them? I don't know the answer to that either. Did the service manager you were dealing with treat you poorly? maybe, that's for you to decide. I've said it before, I've only ever seen 1 3.5l with a screw come out, ever.. If I had never seen that before, I would probably tell a customer that I'd never heard of that problem. Doesn't mean that I'm trying to hide something, or protect nissan. Are there shops out there that try to rip people off? Yes, there is. I've personally worked for one that I refused to sell work that I didn't believe the vehicle required and was rewarded with a pink slip.. You need to feel comfortable and trust where you're having your service done. If you don't, you need to find somewhere else. As for letting something slide under warranty as Zibi mentioned, there's not really any such thing. Nissan's warranty is black and white. There's failure specs on parts and inspection procedures. Anything can be "covered" under warranty, that doesn't mean it will be paid by the manufacturer. You can bring your truck in for repair and I can replace anything I want and put it through warranty. You drive away, but when I send that invoice to Nissan for payment, if it doesn't meet critera, such as.. vehicle is over mileage, or over by date, they just reject it and do not pay for it. Then the dealership gets stuck with the bill. If you have and engine that blew up because you never changed the oil in it, and I replaced it under warranty, you'd drive away with a new engine. I'd probably even get paid by Nissan for it. BUT they have anywhere from the day of payment, all the way up to 5 years to call me up and say, you know that engine you replaced? send us a copy of the maintenance records on it, and if I cannot supply them, they simply charge us back. If a dealer lets something "slide" through under warranty, it's more likely something like my 2nd example than anything else.

I'm going to try to say this as politically correct as I can. 1) As a service manager, we have NO read: ZERO control over what nissan will or will not warranty. 2) There is a specific timeline of warranty on parts. 3yr/60,000km/36,000mi or 5yr/100,000km/60,000mi 3) Once that timeline is up, it is no longer Nissan's responsibility to pay for your repairs, it is the owner of the vehicle. 4) If Nissan decides that there is a reasonable grounds to issue a product campaign or safety recall then they will do so. 5) Until #4 is enacted, see #1 So there is no reason to get on someones case and tell them to do their research, there's still nothing they can do. Did anyone mention the mileage on this vehicle anywhere? I didn't see it posted. P.S. I'm not exactly sure what material they are, yes, they are not brass because they are magnetic, however in the altima's I saw that dropped them they were rolled up in tiny brass looking balls, so they must be a similar metal.

That's a common symptom for the older trucks and it almost always is the o2 sensor. Just follow the wire up from the exhaust till you find the plug.

Hope that works out for you. are you running 5w30? You could always try 10W30 and see if the thicker oil will help.

Transmission fluid used to be used because of the detergents in it would "clean" the engine. At least that's the way the theory went. I've never tried it, and never seen it "officially" written down anywhere.. I'd use a commercial engine flush, not the AFT, you never know what interaction with metal (bearings etc) there might be. I would also recommend checking you manfolds first. They are often mistaken for internal engine noises and always seem to go away after 10 minutes or so (metal expands and exhaust leak stops)

Start with a complete fluid flush. If there's air in the system, or a lot of moisture it will affect them a lot. Also make sure your rear brakes are adjusted properly If that all checks out and you still have a problem, then you may have a problem with the master cylinder.

I've got 5 hoists at my disposal. My motto is "I don't work outside in the cold and I don't work on the ground when I can lift it above my head" And my gut would need the clearance... lol.

Yep. The jack stands supported the axle. If you had the jack stands on say the control arm boxes, or on the body and removed the shock bolts, the rear diff would fall several inches possibly inujuring the installer.

I realize I'm bringing back an old thread to life, however I couldn't help but notice.... no-one mentioned putting a jack under the differential before taking the shock bolts out.... pretty important step if anyone's reading this in the future for instructions. The only exception to this is if you're leaving the truck sitting on it's wheels on the ground. If the rear tires are off the ground, use the support jack.

Blue smoke = Burning oil Black smoke = Unburned fuel White smoke = Burning coolant Have you pulled out your spark plugs at all? I'd guess most likely head gasket if there is no external leaks. With loosing that much coolant, you should be able to tell by looking at the tips of the spark plugs. The cylinder(s) that are causing the problem will most likely have white tipped plugs. If you can get your hands on a cooling system pressure tester and a borescope you can pull the plugs, put the system under pressure. Wait 2-3 hours and then look into each cylinder with the scope. You will most likely find a puddle of coolant on the top of the pistons of the cylinders that are leaking. The black smoke you are getting is probably when the engine is burning off the coolant, it can't burn the fuel.

They're really bad for u-joints. probably front and rear need replacing.

I don't recall off the top of my head the manual vs. auto, but I think someone here had a manual one they said they took apart and it didn't have them. We only had that one, and it was a couple of years ago now. nothing since.

I'm a service manager for North End Nissan ( www.northendnissan.ca ) I've only ever had 1 R50 with 1 power valve screw missing, and we replaced the entire power valve manifold section under warranty.

only if you're pre- 90. 90-96 will all be quads.

It seems like there's a lot of people asking a lot of questions here. Let me set a couple things straight for everyone. 1) The power valve screw issue was NOT a large problem with the 3.5l. Did it happen on some? yes, most, no. In all the pathfinders's I've serviced, I only had 1 of these happen to them. 2) The power valve screw issue with 2.5l sentra's and altima's WAS a problem, and a recall was issued on it. 3) Can you take your intake apart and secure them for peace of mind, of course you can, it's actually a pretty simple process (3 hours should be plenty of time) 4) If you are going to do this repair yourself, MAKE SURE that you only remove 1 screw at a time and thread lock it. The valves are percicely aligned, there is a special jig that is used to align the ones on the altima/sentra's. 5) The power valves and screws are NOT seperate from the lower intake manifold collector. Hence it makes it a power train item and is covered under the powertrain warranty. The person with the 04 should still be under warranty, unless his 04 was registered in early 03 6) If a screw happens to fall out, chances are that it will simply embed it's self into the catalytic converter, where is may/may not stay. If it comes free, it can be sucked back into the engine and score the piston walls. If it simply goes in and out, it's unlikely there would be any damage, but if you are doing this repair and find a screw missing, pull your exhaust manifold off and remove the screw. Yes I know that's a tonne more work, but it's worth it. 7) any locktite should do, but I'd suggest red locktite. There's no reason you would ever need to remove the screws for servicing. 8) You should be able to re-use all the gaskets, unless any become damaged in the process, and in a pinch a dab of silicone gasket would get it back together. 9) Only Pathfinder's and QX4's with the 3.5 have the power valves. All other 3.5's (altima/maxima/etc) have a different intake design.

The 300zx is a quad cam engine. I'm certain that it would not work.

I installed LT245/75R17 BFG Tk tires on my 98 with no issues at all, all factory suspension. They are about 31.6" tall tires.