morpheus

yes, there's a 99 pathfinder and a 99.5 pathfinder Don't worry about following the capacity in the FSM, as GrimGreg said, fill it to the bottom of the fill hole. Once fluid starts pouring back out at you you know you're at the right level. Same goes for both diff's and for a manual transmission.

Well, I found this guy doing a VG30 to VG33 swap in his WD21: http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/ I found him in a thread talking about bolting his VG30 pacesetter headers up to his new VG33 he's swapping in and them fitting. (with pics) http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...c=6539.msg81692 now this is getting interesting....

See, I figured I would get 2 high flow cats and simply mount them back a little furthur. And if the angle on the collector was off, I also figured I could sawsall if off about 3-4 inches up, and modify as required and then weld it back into place. It would probably mean installing the header, tack welding in place, removing manifold, and then properly welding, then re-coating the header. Then I could just have a custom front pipe bent for each side, install the high flow converter ( I'll still have to be able to pass emissions) and continue off into a flowmaster or magnaflow muffler. It'll probably be a while before I do this, I've started to develop the cold weather start manifold leak, so I know it'll have to be done eventually, I'm just researching at the moment.

I spent a lot of time today searching/researching headers for the pathfinder I found that no one makes headers for the R50 (stillen used to, but they discontinued them) So I went in search of alternatives. Found out that the VG33 in the path, frontier and xterra all have the same exhaust port setup, but the manifold setup from the pathy and the frontier/xterra are a lot different. What was interesting, is I found out that the port setup in the VG30 is exactly the same as the VG33. In fact, I found a lot of information VG30 owners swapping VG33 heads for a performance increase (a different topic) The only difference between the VG30 and VG33 heads (as far as exhaust port setup) is the VG33 has bigger exhaust studs. Originally I thought I might be stuck modifying a set for a frontier/xterra, but this new piece of information opens all the WD21's, 300ZX etc.. headers, which everyone seems to make. I was wondering if anyone had heard of anyone trying this at all? I found lots of guys talking about it, but no one actually doing it. So I'm looking at these wondering if they'll work: They're listed for a 300zx, and I may have to adjust the collector angle/setup, but now it's got me thinking.... does anyone know anyone who has done this successfully?

It was an xterra then, not a pathfinder my mistake... yes, I know about that, but I wasn't involved with it... it was done somewhere else.

I have personally seen 2 transmissions completely FAIL shortly after putting GL-5 fluid in them. 1 in a pathfinder, 1 in a 350z One of those people took the shop that put the gl-5 fluid in their transmission to court and won a settlement. They had 3 samples of fluid sent to a lab for testing, and he shared the results with me. 1 test was brand new never used gl-4 fluid 1 test was brand new never used gl-5 fluid 1 test was the fluid from his transmission. There was a huge difference in the additives between the gl4 and 5, specifically with the additives that control friction (from what I remember from reading the report) bottom line, don't use gl-5 fluid in your transmission. Although you might get lucky, and use a brand that is soft metal safe, you could just as easially not.

I 2nd the motion to sticky great writeup... makes me want to do it to mine...

I use liquid dish soap, and add table salt

Pop your hood and look at the top of the struts. theres an electronic actuator at the top of each. remove the actuator and install regular non-adjustable ones. they will bolt right up.

hose clamp around the other 1/2 thats rattling. tighten to hold it from rattling

The locksmith may have the equipment to program them.

If you want to be extra cautious, clean it up after cleaning out the vent and recheck it in a week or two. It would be a shame to do all that work for nothing.

You definatly have the startings of an axle seal leak. 1st thing is to check that diff vent you mentioned and make sure it isn't clogged. a clogged vent will make the pressure build in the diff and force oil past the seals. I also agree that it's a minor leak. clean it up as best you can with brake clean, check the vent and don't worry too much about it. It won't affect your braking unless the oil gets on the brake shoes.

The 2003 pathfinder uses a microchipped key. It looks like this There is an antenna in the key cylinder that reads the microchip when you put the key in the ignition and decices if it is an authorized key or not. Your truck would use a key with a part# of H0564-5Y700 or H0564-4Z000 (they are both the same) Canadian retail pricing on the key is $108.57 (club price $92.28) The key needs to be programmed onto the vehicle with any existing keys that you have, that's why the vehicle must go to the shop. The consult is used to program the keys into the vehicle's computer. Shops will usually charge 0.5 to 1.0 hours labor to do this (I charge 0.5, or $45). Sounds like you're getting a quote of 1.0 plus the key would make it around the $200 mark. Simply having a key inside the vehicle will not work. You are thinking about the new I-key's for the newest vehicle models like this Those won't work on your vehicle. As for the remote starter. There are 2 ways people install those things. The first way is the cheap - read WRONG way of doing it. They disconnect the antenna from the lock cylinder, hide a key under the dash and wrap the antenna around it. This allows the remote starter to read a good key all the time and start the vehicle. With this type of system, you can use a regular non-chipped key and start the vehicle every time. The 2nd way - read the right way - is there is a little box under the dash that wires into the system and sends a signal when the remote starter activates and allows it to start. If that is your system, if you start the vehicle with the remote starter, then simply put a non-chipped key in the ignition, as soon as you touch the brake pedal, the remote starter would shut off, then the system would see a non-chipped key in the system. chances are that it would set a code in the system that a non-authorized key is being used, the vehicle would probaly stay running, but as soon as you shut it off, it probably wouldn't start, even with the remote starter. It would probably go into a kind of "theft" mode that would make you wait 30 minutes before restarting. not a big deal if you drive to work, but a pain in the ass if you just stopped at the store. There are aftermarket microchipped keys available, I've seen them in the $50 range, but I have no experience with them, as I've never used them. If you want to explore this route, look in the yellowpages under locksmiths in your're area, and call some up for some quotes. Most good locksmiths will also have the ability to program the keys too, or at least supply you with one that you can have programmed at the dealer.

Elongating the bottom holes used to be common practice. Now you can purchace adjustable camber bolts from NAPA that as you rotate them adjusts the angle for you. As far as the top holes.... I don't think thats a good idea.

http://www.phonebusters.com/english/recogn...t_warranty.html

If there's codes, the all-mode probably won't function. Reset all the codes (you'll need a scanner that can access the all-mode, not just engine) and recheck. Chances are they towed it with 2 wheels on the ground, otherwise there would be no codes set. If it was a short distance, there shouldn't be any damage, if it was a longer distance, there could be.

Auto hubs are complicated little pieces.. if you don't get them back together right, they don't work. Even if you only have a problem on one side, you won't have any 4wd. Manual hubs are very simple, only 3-4 pieces to them, and install in a matter of minutes.

Cross canada lists a black grille for $178 bucks. Probably would look a lot better than paint. Might be able to get one from a salvage yard.

When it comes to plugs, I've always recommended running what the factory made. If it's a Nissan, use NGK, if it's a gm use ACdelco, Ford use Motorcraft. Can't just use the old plugs till you can get ngk's?

We sell an alternator for an 05 pathy (pt# 23100-EA20A) for $447.15 retail, $380.08 club price. to say you were raped is an understatement.

I've only ordered from them once, my lift springs. didn't really have any problems, i think it was about 1.5-2 weeks before i got them. The packaging kind of sucked, box was pretty banged up, but i can't blame that on them, that's ups's fault.

Anyone notice the price in the window changed 1/2 way through?

... drive it like a rental ...

Depends on the mileage of the motor. Since you were driving it when it broke, most likely there is piston/valve contact. New (or rebuilt) heads and a new belt would certanly fix it, but if the bottom end has a lot of mileage on it, you might not be doing yourself any favours. You might want to look for a low mileage used motor and just swap the whole thing.