morpheus

When I installed 1" strut spacers with the AC lift coils, the front end actually sat higher than the rear. The AC lift takes some time to settle, but I took my spacers right back out after installing them, and never got around to putting them back in.

The switch is part of the latch/lock assembly. Were you driving when the door opened? There's safety's built in so you can't open any of the automatic doors when the vehicle is in motion.. Strange yours would at all. I've seen quest sliding doors, and front automatic windows go hay-wire by themselfes when a remote f-'s up internally, sending out a signal even with no button pushed, but the rear door opening while moving is a new one for me....

Heres a pic of some Armada lines we replaced, they are similar It's a catch 22 if you should remove the brackets or not. The best way is to take the clamp apart, make sure all the dirt and grit that might "sandpaper" through the lines is cleaned out, and use some new foam, then seal it up with something.

I cant' offer any advice on if an add on cooler is enough or not, as I have no experience with them.. all I can stress is don't leave the radiator cooler connected, you might regret it.

edited my post for clairity... lol.

From what I remember, it's in theese areas: The spots that the plastic clamps hold the lines together are also a place that cause issues.

They're not my defects, I didn't build the car! Sounds to me you should sell your's quick and buy a jeep. lol!

Blow some compressed air into the bottom of the drain hose. Most common thing is a leaf or something gets sucked in and sits on the drain hole. Plugs it enough to overflow, not enough to stop the drip...

The metal is fine, it's aluminum. The problem is the foam they use at certain places to prevent vibration. The foam holds moisture, and water and corrodes the aluminum till a leak occours. There is 2 ways to fix it. Take the body off the truck and replace the entire line Use a hose repair kit to cut out the affected line piece and splice in a repair piece. The coolant lines also corrode through, but that is less common, and is easily repaired with some rubber line and hose clamps. Anyone with an 05+ with rear air should climb under their truck, find the lines (they run along the passenger frame rail), remove all the foam that they can find, and then use a good quality undercoating or rocker guard to spray the entire line to prevent future corrosion. Unfortunatly, nissan is only covering this line for 3yr/60,000km even if you have an extended warranty, as the extended warranty doesn't cover "corrosion". Personally, I think it sucks, and it's a kick in the balls on nissan's part, but sometimes there's just certain things the dealer's hands are tied on....

check www.car-part.com for a used one in your area. The cans are only good to "top up" your system, not fill it. many of them only contain a fraction of a pound of freon. The system from empty takes 1.5 lbs. do the math. Better to spend a few bucks and get someone with the proper equipment to fill it after.

I order from the US often for work, and UPS calls me every time to verify if I want them to broker the item across the border or not. you will ALWAYS get screwed on brokerage fees when you pay someone else to bring things across the border for you. The taxes are unavoidable, that is what it is. You should not be paying any taxes at the originating shipping point because they are shipping out of state, so you really didn't get screwed on those. I haven't looked into it yet, but I assume that there are probably brokerage people out there that don't charge as much as UPS do in fees, so when they make that phonecall, I can tell them no, I don't want them too. I haven't been too concerned yet, as it's not my money, so I'm not so worried. One day I might...

Or you can just replace factory 1 way speakers with 2 way or 3 way speakers.

Not opening the bleeder won't do anything other than what grimgreg said. It's not the cause of the leak, more likely a score int the piston, or just some fluid getting past the seal. It's better to open the bleeder so the dirt/overheated fluid doesn't go back into the brake system.

if you build up pressure by pumping the pedal seveal times, and then stomp on it and hold the pedal very hard, like a panic stop, it will push your entire brake system to the maximum pressure it will ever sustain. If it doesn't leak, you should be good. Sometimes the fluid will push past the seals when pushing the piston back if you push it too quickly. The fluid has to go somewhere. however, for $35 bucks for a caliper, you can't really go wrong... I wish mine had been that cheap when I needed to replace them.

sometimes you will get a little fluid by the seal when you push it back, if you put it on the pads and pump up the pedal, does it still leak? You can get a seal kit, but if you need to do it quick, a complete caliper is the way to go.

I don't have the info infront of me, but there is a test using an infared thermometer to read the temperature at the front of the cat, and at the rear of the cat. There should be a noticible difference, I believe hotter in the back of the cat. If the temperature is the same both ends, then it isn't working properly. Someone can chime in if they know the specs on what temp and temp difference there should be.

Agreed. WD40 works great. Spray it on, let it soak, then just wipe it off. Then use windex to clean up the oil residue.

Just installing the AC lift springs alone needs camber adjustment afterwards. I guess if you made the SFD using stock height springs it would work, but I think most people are using the 2" AC coils + the 4" SFD aren't they? At least that's what I'm using.

You'll need to replace 2 of them with adjustable camber bolts anyways to do the alignment.

If you want one for trails, don't even worry about looking at the ones made for vehicles. Tom-Tom, etc... they usually don't have any form of off road capability. For that you'll want a hand held one, probably one that lets you store a lot of way-points, so you can record the various points of the trail. Someone with more experience with various unit's would be better at giving advice on those.

There's very little oil pressure once it gets to the top of the motor. The worst that would happen is the oil would get splattered around and some would come out the oil cap opening. Just clean up any splashing and adjust the oil level, nothing will happen.

The front diff is easy to remove. Just unbolt the drive shafts, and a few mounting bolts and out it comes. 30 minutes max to remove it.

I would stay away from the 6 ply tires. Yes hey have a better load capacity, but they are also about 30% heavier than the 4 ply tires. Your rolling mass is huge with 6 ply's. I used 6 ply tires before, then changed to 4 ply's. Gained about 100km / tank just with that change alone.

What wheels and offset are you using? they look like they stick out quite a bit

They did adress the brake problem, with updated brake pads and rotors. There was a campaign on that too, they replaced the pads and rotors at no charge. I've never had a truck come back with a brake problem after installing the updated parts, maybe yours in a one-off, or posssibly someone put the wrong pads on the truck as part of the campaign, or as a repair afterwards.