morpheus

we did 2 of them today, one had over 200,000km on it, they were both fine.

WORD OF WARNING! We have reviewed the complete inspection proceedure, and if the vehicle is found to have a certain spot weld broken, or excessive rust, you will lose your vehicle It will be deemed "unsafe" to drive, and must stay at the dealership. You will be provided with a rental car, and nissan will pay for the rental. They will then contact you at a later date for what sounds like a "buy out" of your truck. Keep this in mind if you want to schedule to have this inspection completed.

Got a little more information. We are now able to inspect the affected vehicles. If there's any "scab rust" or perforation in the driver wheel well, the vehicle is not repairable, and we are to hold the vehicle at the dealership and provide the owner with a rental vehicle until furthur notice. There are 3 areas to inspect spot welds, if the welds are broken in one specific area, the vehicle is repairable, but not driveable, we are to provide the owner with a rental vehicle until furthur notice. If the welds are broken in one of the other 2 places, the vehicle is repairable, and is driveable, and we are to return the vehicle to the owner and tell them repair information will be provided in the near future.

It's the closest I could come to participating in the thread! lol.

had a 2011 370z today with around 15 codes.... cause.... dead battery...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30159&st=0&p=571118&fromsearch=1entry571118

Another item to inspect is the input bearing in the front differential. Grab the front drive shaft, and push up and down on it to check for movement in the flange of the diff. Minimal movement is ok, excessive movement is not.

does that mean 70/30 if used?

I've seen it a few times on R50's. As long as it's repaired before the complete strut comes loose from the body and causes catistrophic failure, it's usually around $800 to fix one side, or $1500 to repair both sides. That's at full pop retail. If you have a friend that can do welding, then I'm sure it can be done for substantially less. After the repairs are complete, a complete alignment should be completed to make sure the front setup is done correctly. Before the vehicle is repaired, it is unsafe to drive, and certainly would not pass any type of safety inspection.

It wasn't a recall (remember recalls are for safety items). It was released as a TSB to use the clamps and channels. Periodically you can take the clamps and channels off and put some more muffler cement in the channels and reclamp them. Not the best fix they've come up with, but it does work, not permently like a weld or a complete pipe weld/job, but it works.

they are resonators. If you've got access to a welder, grinding the welds and re-welding is the best way to go.

Although it's not installed yet, I have a snorkel for the X. I didn't get it so I could run water up 1/2 to the windshield, I got it so I didn't have to worry about sucking water, just worry about driving. I soaked an air filter in the R50 last year. Just a little deeper and I could have sucked in enough to hydrolock the motor. The electronics can short out, the alternator can fry, the starter can die. I can change all those on the side of the trail. If I hydrolock a motor, I ain't fixing that on the side of the trail.

2H to 4H you can shift at practically any speed, they just don't recommend doing it at higher speeds. from 4H to 4L you are shifting to a completely different gear ratio, so not only do you have to be stopped, but there can't be any strain on the driveline. IE: if you are parked on a hill, and try to shift it, it won't go, unless you force it and it grinds. you can shift it if you are on a perfectly level spot, there is no strain on the driveline. If you have it in neutral, it doesn't matter if you are on a hill, there is no strain, it will shift smoothly. So rule of thumb, always be in neutral when shifting from 4H to 4L, including if you shift all the way from 2H to 4L

it's a round plug, and you'd need an adaptor like above. if you don't have it, either someone has modified it previously, or maybe your vehicle didn't have the antenna in the windshield from factory, and someone replaced the windshield and put the wrong one in.

try swapping the bulb HID bulbs draw approx 5 amps each, no way you need that big a fuse. make sure you didnt pinch any wiring either.

It is indeed called the "diversity antenna" it is used to boost the signals, mostly where you would experience "signal bounce" as in the downtown core where there's a lot of buildings. When you replace your factory deck with an aftermarket one, you'll notice that the antenna plug is round with 2 wires that go into it. one for each antenna, you need an adaptor to go from 2 to one. they work together, but will work on their own just as well. the windshield one would not pick up as good a signal as the fender one. if your power antenna is dead, and you can hear the motor running, then you can just buy the mast portion seperatly, and they're fairly inexpensive, and easy to install. If your motor is dead too, then you can replace the complete antenna with a cheaper fixed mount one, just need to splice the antenna wiring.

lol, i sent him the pic right after the install.

if you have 15 codes stored in your system, then you should either look at the codes and see which ones pertain to the symptom you are experiencing. If any or all of them could be causing it, then most likely what has haappened is one part or one system has malfunctioned, and a cascade of failures have occoured becuse the first system isn't working. If you've got a bad hiccup, or lag in acceleration for example, driving it like that can cause codes in the transmission computer for hard shift. It's no that there's anything wrong in the transmission, it's just a concequence of the original failure. Sometimes the only way to diagnose it properly is to completely clear all the codes, and then drive it untill the first code comes up, and that will tell you what system, or "circuit" you're looking at. you are correct that the code doens't tell you what's wrong, but if you've got a running problem, and the code is for an o2 sensor, starting by replacing plugs, cap rotor and wires will just waste your money, and you'll still have the problem with the o2 sensor. The code tells you what system is causing the failure, then you have to test the components in that system to find the failure.

Check for a rust hole in the wheel well under where the feet would rest. I've seen a rust hole right through in that area, and the tire throws water right there.

unless they are an exact copy, they are original OEM nissan manual locking hubs, same ones I had on the R50 and now on the X.

I actually want to change my lights to work off the fog light switch too, it will make it easier to turn off when there's oncomming traffic. I've already got mine wired to accessory switches in the centre dash, so I may wire so that the fog light switch simply powers the switches, and will esentially turn off the lights when turned off.

What's the wattage of the piia's? If they're 55 watts, and you're just using the swith for the 2 of them, then you should be able to wire it up directly. If you want to hook up more lights, you can do the exact same setup, except you'll have to wire up some relays under the hood. You'll have to use the fog light harness to trigger the relay instead of directly to the lights, and then let the relay feed battery power to the lights.

I was asking $5000 certified and e-tested before I pulled the wheels and tires off, now I'm just trying to give it away at $2000. [/threadjack] Back to the KMA!

lol, it's still sitting in my driveway for sale! I switched to the X because (to me, no hating here! lol) it had more potential. I had all the steel cut and ready to do the subframe drop, but then switched gears mid-stride. I've stipped the R50 back down to only having the 2" lift and rear bumper, asking $2000 now for it, paying only for the bumper and lift/struts/shocks, and getting a free truck with it. I'd split it up $1000 for the truck / $1000 for the bumper if someone was really interested.