Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

morpheus

Members
  • Posts

    412
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by morpheus

  1. Not using 1.5m nuts on 1.25m studs by chance are you?
  2. This is the best I've ever seen a cube described!
  3. Maxima has cooled seats, you could use those and at least keep it all Nissan!
  4. Are you manual or auto trans? Did I miss that somewhere? Iirc manual trans only has 3500lbs towing capacity. Auto has 5000lb I tow a 4200lb rv with my 3.3l xterra on 33's and it struggles of the hills, but is fine other than that.
  5. Most seat heaters are just a basic heating pad hooked up to a switch and 12v. You can pull the pad out of just about any make/model at a wrecker, doesn't have to be a Nissan, just has to have the right amount of surface area.
  6. Maybe this explains why the picture I sent them once upon a time disappeared too, but I didn't worry about it that much, I just figured they didn't like my truck that had a bunch of their parts on it, and I've been buying from other companies since.
  7. By far, the best choice now for lighting is an led light bar. I have 4 HID KC day lighters on my roof, and they work very well, but I added a light bar underneath them this summer, and now I don't even use the HID's anymore, and am actually considering removing them completely. The light bars come in different lengths from 12" to 40". I put a 20" on the front and want to get a couple 12" ones for the sides and back to simply use as "work" lights angled downwards. The led bars don't throw the light quite as far as the KC's do, but it completely fills all the area that you need to watch for animals running out on the hiway etc...
  8. Could it be as simple as the plug on the harness isn't locking onto the injector properly?
  9. Pics you posted look very minor. Should get a reinforcement plate installed (insist this level is done, they have an option to not install if they feel its not required) and a simple repair. People have a lot worse than you.
  10. If you want to test your abs, just find a loose gravel parking lot and do some hard stops. Should kick in. Make sure your rear drums are adjusted properly too.
  11. Is that the ONLY abs code? That code usually indicates a abs pump failure, but they rarely fail on their own. What usually happens is something else goes wrong, and the owner ignores it and doesn't fix it, which causes the abs pump to run way beyond what it was designed to do. I would reset the system, look for the first failure to come up and address that first and maybe you'll be lucky and the pump/actuator will be ok. Alternatively it is possible the previous owner ended up fixing the minor problem already to find that the abs pump is bad and decided to sell rather than fix. You're best bet is to try to find a used wrecker one, as new I believe they are probably in the $2000 range.
  12. No, the factory manuals are just as vague. Unless its something you specifically need to know ie: remove engine, then remove oil pan, they pretty much assume you know what you're doing. The only place the FSM gets specific is when you're diagnosing a component, then they tell you step by step right down to what wire to probe.
  13. Not a factory button. Probably installed by a previous owner. My guess is fog lights, or passenger ejection seat.
  14. There isn't the specific vin number on the Nissan engine, there is an engine code at the top of the bell housing. There is a data base of what engine code went in what vin # at the factory, but that will obviously change if an engine gets swapped. Other than that code, the only place iirc that an a actual vin shows up on the block might be a simple peel and stick sticker that won't be there after a couple years.
  15. Never never never never. I can't stress this enough. Assume a picture in the FSM is correct. They are always basic representations of a part, sometimes not even close to what the actual part looks like. They seem to do their best to get it close, but don't go replacing something because the line drawing in the FSM looks different. Always compare it to a new part if available, or another truck or two. That's my PSA for the day.
  16. 98% if the time when a customer presents a seat that will not slide, it's money in the track. Break that down further, if its. Manual seat, it's 99.9% of the time, only when it's a power seat that its maybe 20% of the time a failed motor or switch.
  17. Can you quote me shipping to postal code... oh, wait, that doesn't work with houses.... you should have a quick sale with that one, nice presentation!
  18. So we had a meeting today with some clairification. The pictures that I posted above, are infact, repairable, and they are expecting a repair within the next month or so. For them to be unsafe to drive, that rust hole must be right at the bottom, where the actual frame rail runs. If you're looking at your truck, look for where the brake flex line and the steel brake line connect at the bracket. Basically, there has to be a perforation BELOW that to be unsafe. Above that, and it's just a hole in the inner fender. They will still be fixing that, but it's ok to drive for the next 30-45 days till they finialize the repair. There's also the 2nd location to inspect at the top for broken spot welds.
  19. Ok, here's some pics of what you're looking for. There is a 2nd location that we inspect as part of the recall as well, that are higher up. This vehicle only had the perforation in the one spot, no seperation of the welds up higher, so I don't have pics of that...
  20. I have no idea on the timeline. I think I have one coming in tomorrow that is being grounded. I'll try to post a pic so people know what to look for.
  21. was the person who hit you coming up the turn lane? unfortunatly, coming across traffic, you are always labeled "at fault"
  22. As the others said, they are usually locking bolts for example. if you look up the oil pan bolts, it sais to replace them every dissassembly, If you look at the new bolts, they simply come with locktite on them

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...