morpheus

THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!

The 33's I have aren't mounted, too much work at the moment to bother mounting them till I'm ready. I got my rear brake line today, steel should be ready this week. Shocks are 24 hours away when I'm ready to order them.

Were the spacers required because of the 35"'s?? I'm planning on running 33's for now, do you think they'll fit? How close was it.

With the way the MOT is around my towns, I'd rather have it at least have the dot stamp on it. They're pulling plates for e-brakes not working, cracked windshields, everything they can get their hands on. One of my tech's drives a 1993 D21 pickup. The thing looks like a rust bucket, but he keeps it in tip-top mechanical shape. He got pulled over and they escorted him to an inspection station and spent forever just TRYING to find something wrong with his truck...

Ok, I've got my head around the blocks... Now I'm onto the brake line.. I was at my local speed shop this afternoon, and according to their book, 30" braided brake line IS avaialable, but is NOT D.O.T. approved. The longest dot approved line was 27". Just wondering if anyone who put the 30" lines on is aware of this, (or maybe it was only applicable to their cataloge) I ordered the 27", for the $40 bucks, I can always change it if I need to.

I've got thick rubber ones for a Murano in mine.. Fit almost 100%. although, they say murano instead of pathfinder....

Ok, well that's where the confusion is, because I got the impression that everyone was talking about a 4" SFD, not a 3.5". Then the spacers listed at 3" + 2x 1/4 in plate top and bottom would also = 3.5" and everything then add's up. If someone compiles this thread into more of a "how to" sticky, rather than an "information" sticky, we should try to clairify the differences. Rod's lift at 4" seems to have worked out ok for him, so I'll stick with the 2x4" steel I've ordered, instead of calling my steel supplier and changing my order for a 2nd time.

Ok, so by what I understand, the measurements listed in the pictures on page 5 are wrong.. They show the subframe spacers as 2.5" underneath the pics and 63.5mm in the pictures. From what I understand, they are supposed to be 2"W x 4"H x 6"L (or 50.8mm W x 101.6mm H) So this also throws all the measurements for the bolt holes out of wack. Also, the 4" OD tube for th subframe spacers should be cut at 3.5", with a 1/4" top and bottom plate, that would make it 4" overall height.

Ok, tried to order some steel today, and got confused on 2 things. The pic/specs of the blocks in the first couple of pages show the blocks as 2.5" x 6".. There's a measurement missing, so I assume that for a 4" SFD that it would be 4" My steel guy says there's no such thing as 2.5" x 4" steel, just 2.5" x 3.5" or 3" x 4", so I ordered the 3"x4". Also, Rod, the pics you sent me show the upper strut spacers as 3" high, but the SFD spacers are 4" is that correct? I would have thought the strut spacers should be 4" as well.

Well, at least I have a good excuse to do the SFD now, rather than later.. No reason to pull it apart to change the strut mount just to have to pull it back apart again... Collecting some parts monday....

I think I found the problem... upper strut mount:

Nice.. so she lives!

The "xterra" is just a sticker on the rack, you should remove it.. Either or looks fine to me (IMO) but if you chose to have the deflector installed, the xterra has a clear plastic strip under the front edge of the deflector that is installed right on the paint surface of the roof (a 3m clear plastic tape) It's there to prevent the vibration while on the highway from damaging the paint surface. Make sure you put something there, or it will end up rubbing right through the paint over time.

So I was contacted by a member the other day asking for more information on what type of transmission fluid to use in his 05 Pathfinder, so I thought I would post up my research. The service manual says for 05-08 Pathfinder's to use J-type fluid. He went to his local dealership and was told that S-type fluid is the new J-type fluid, and that he should be using it. S-type fluid is used in 09-10 Pathfinders (and xterra/frontier/370z) The service manual for 09-10 pathfinder says that j-type fluid can be used if s-type is not available. I contacted nissan tech for clairification, and was told that there is no official word on what putting s-type fluid in a transmission calling for j-type fluid would do. They're thoughts were that it probably wouldn't cause any issues, but they didn't understand why a dealer would be telling someone to put a different fluid that calls for something else. (except for the fact that S-type fluid is more expensive than J-type, so maybe they were trying to upsell) My thoughts are why would you risk it, even the tech guys don't know for sure what will happen. The FSM says use J, use J. If something is published down the road, then that's different. I wouldn't want to see someone with a pile of worn out transmission parts in their hands.

update -- I have no update, shop was too busy to bring it in today. I was thinking about the strut tower brace, more for the subframe drop, but also becuase of the accident repairs I had to do when I bought the truck. I obviously don't have any idea how the truck drove pre-accident, but it was a hard enough hit to tear the sheet metal from the frame rails, so I was almost thinking about weak metal allowing movement/vibration through the upper strut mounts.

I'm going to put it back on the hoist tomorrow and recheck everything, but I'm sure about the balljoints, has been double checked, I have manual hubs (unlocked) Rear links are new and rear axle is in spec (just did alignment on thursday) I'll double check the control arm bushings and the steering rack bushings. When I bought the truck it had been in an accident and torn all the upper strut mounts away from the frame, body shop repaired it all, and the alignment shows it all within spec, but I'm concerned that might be part of the issue too.

So I've had a shaking in my steering since I got the pathfinder, and I can't seem to get rid of it. I have eliminated all the obvious issues, and can't sort it out. There is zero play in the front end, both inner and outter tie rods are new, alignment bang on, balljoints zero play, wheel bearing zero play. Tires balanced New KYB struts and AC springs (but shake was there before the lift) I've used 2 different sets of wheels - 17" aluminum wheels that came with the truck, and AR 15" steel wheels I replaced them with. I've used 2 different sets of tires - 17" BFG Allterrain T/Ako and 15" BFG Allterrain T/Ako Shaking starts at 80kph and goes away at 110kph If I'm driving on a nice straight stretch of road, and set my cruise control at 90kph, the vibration will come and go. When it's gone, the drive is smooth as glass, when the shaking is there, the steering re-verberats back and forth like a belt shifted tire. As far as I can tell I've eliminated - front end parts - inner and outter tie rods are new - tires - 2 different sets used, and balanced - wheels - 2 different sets used - Drive shaft u-joints - fronts replaced, rears not siezed or loose Any thoughts?

you're gonna love my nuts...

I don't have any personal experience with using them, but from what I've seen they are based on engine size and horsepower. Someone on here might be able to offer better advise.

If you don't have e-testing, just plug it for now. When e-testing comes (it will eventually) just repair it then.

I tell everyone I can to bypass the factory radiator cooler and put a stand alone cooler on an 05+ pathfinder/xterra/frontier. They all blow eventually, just a ticking timebomb. Just make sure you get the correct size cooler for your application.. This case, too big isn't better, it can make the fluid too cold. The only thing you might notice, is a bit of a funny shift, or a lack of lockup at highway speeds when starting off with the vehicle cold (sat overnight) because the radiator also warms the fluid up to operating temperature quicker. That won't hurt it, just will take longer for the fluid to warm up.

You can always try a stilin supercharger for a 350Z, I don't know if anyone has tried it yet....

needs new cap rotor and wires. when they get old,they will arc like that.

If you have a floor shift from 2H to 4H and 4L then it's the tx10. If you've got a switch on your dash that is labeled 2H auto 4H 4L then it's the atx14a If you have an auto mode transfer case and you put manual hubs on, you can NEVER have the switch in AUTO mode, or damage and carnage may result.

make sure you didn't double gasket the oil filter either (old gasket from old oil filter stuck to engine)