morpheus

I'm just worried that without rear spacers that the front will actually sit higher than the rear.

If you're doing the majority of the labour yourself (teardown and re-assembly) and you're ok with the possibility of it not working out, then I'd say go for it, try welding first.. The brass key idea is a good one, because it will keep the hole clean of welding slag. You'll need to grind the weld area to make everything work. Otherwise, you'd be looking at least replacing the crank, or the engine.

So UPS came by today and left me .... and inside I found... my late b-day present to myself... my ac springs... My 1" spacers should arrive tomorrow, and I'm all set to go. How many people have installed 2" AC coils with 1" strut spacers but not done any spacing with the back springs??? Does it just bring the truck level? Or does the front sit a little higher? I'm thinking I should try to figure out a rear spring spacer too.

Most yards will have an interchange book that will tell you what will fit or not, even over different models.

There's been an unexpected delay at the anodizing shop. (too much backlog) I should have them soon and will post details.

There is no filter for the transfer case. Just fill/drain plugs.

If you're not using an external oil cooler for the transmission, make sure that the radiator isn't leaking coolant into the transmission lines. Coolant contaminated ATF will cause a shudder You can tell by the ATF turning from a red color to a pink milkshake consistancy.

FSM Actually shows 80W90 for diff's, but 75W90 is close enough if you can't find 80W. The only thing to make sure, is.. read the diff fluid bottles. Somewhere on there there should be an API reading. Make sure it states API GL-5. You can buy the same fluid (80w90) in GL-4 which is not the same fluid and will damage stuff. Also make sure it says for LSD, but I believe if it says GL-5 it will also say LSD. Capacity's are: front diff - 3 7/8 pt / 1.85L rear diff - 5 7/8 pt / 2.8L transfer - manual - 2 3/8 qt / 2.2L transfer - all mode - 3 1/8 qt / 3.0L

Sorry, no pics available. They had alerady stuffed that one back together... The repair cost on the exising one would have been almost double a new one...

The auto transfer case assy has a complete drum/clutch pack assembly just like an auto transmission does. It allows the assembly to move in/out of 4wd It also has a valve body just like a transmission. I have no experience with gear ratio changing in a transfer case, but I suspect it would be difficult just based on the electronics aspect of it. We've got one disassembled at the shop, I'll try to remember to grab some pics of it tomorrow.

It doesn't look like a bad deal, expecially since it's aluminum, but you don't drive a toyota.. Getting that bumper to fit might be a nightmare. Do the guys at the shop you know have the ability/equipment to weld aluminum? You may end up with a piece of scrap metal if you're not careful. I just ordered a bumper from these guys: http://www.kenmtnac.com/Nissan.html for an extra $150 bucks, you could have one you'll be guaranteed will fit on your rig and you can customize it if you want.

I've seen quite a few go bang, and a few front ones too.

Then the ones who posted? I'm sure you weren't refering to me, as I haven't posted any yet, all I said is I was getting some made. If you just ASS-U-MED something, then.....

For $145usd you get a whoppnig 1/2" lift spacer. Whats the point? For a 1" spacer you have to go to the 25mm at $235Aud

If the thread I started about strut spacers is any indication, wait for all the people to start screaming what $165 USD is way overpriced.

Bedliner spray is great to seal/prevent rust. The problem is, if there's rust already, you need to remove it before spraying by sanding/blasting for it to adhere properly. I don't know if anyone's tried spraying over rust, but I'd bet it wouldn't last too long.

Check the alternator output

Don't worry about any transmission codes till you get the engine stuff figured out. If you're driving under throttle and it misfires, it can trigger false trans codes.

That's not what I expected to see... not a fusable link for sure. I don't believe that's original.

I would guess it's a fusable link, but without a pic I can't be 100% sure.

Here's a pic of it, climb underneath and see if this is what's making the noise:

The all-mode transfer case has a motor on the back of it that runs at low speeds and when in reverse to run the oil pump. I'd check that, if it's getting noisy, it could be close to failure, which would starve the transfer case of oil, and cause furthur damage.

If possible, before you start, you should try to cut as much of the rusted area out. Rust is like cancer, if you don't get it out, it will continue to spread. Any areas that you can't cut out should be sand blasted, then just use some sheet metal to fill the hole. Mig welding is probably the best way of doing it, however being that it's the floor it doesn't need to look that pretty. The seat track area definatly needs to be strong, but the bottom of the floor you can simply pop rivit some sheet metal in, then coat it with fiberglass and then tar the crap out of everything to prevent future rust.

You can always just have it welded back up of it's not covered.

Looks fairly straight forward, but one thing I didn't see them mention (maybe they did it, maybe I missed it) Is that all the holes they drilled in the fender will rust out unless they touched up all the bare metal edges with paint.