morpheus

Pezzy, do you still have mine, or do I have to re-apply? I did include pics in the app, but your comment to me about pics sounded like they never made it..

Now there's a new idea... never heard of that one before... where'd that come from?

i'm starting to sound like a broken record.... it's a jeep thing, we wouldn't understand...

I don't know, with only 13 posts, it can't be that often... lol (or maybe you just read a lot)

tires will fluctuate 1-2 psi for every 10 degrees of air temperature change Fill a baloon 1/2 full of air and put it in the freezer, it will shrivle up, put the same baloon outside on a hot day and it will expand.

I know that in BC there is a law about them, but not in the rest of canada. The X-Trail was available with a package that came with 2 lights mounted in the roof rack, if the vehicle was sold in BC there was a delete, or cover that needed to be put on them before they were allowed to be sold. Don't know about laws in your area.

Ok, it's done.

If you can get the engine code off the block (I think it's usually near the bellhousing) I might be able to get someone to look up what vehicle it was originally in.

You should install camber bolts anyways, because if you've got it apart, it's not a big deal to put them in. If you don't, put it all together, then try to align it, find out you need them, you have to take all the alignment stuff off, take the front end apart, and put them in anyways. You might as well have put them in the first place to save the agravation. My rears were very tricky to install. I did it without removing the bumpstops. I disconnected the rear shocks, and the rear swaybar. The swaybar gave me another 2-3 inches of drop. The rear flex hose was at it's max droop, any more and it would have torn the hose. If I had disconnected the hose I probably could have gotten a little more room, but I didn't want to chance breaking bolts or lines. I ended up having to compress my rear springs, and then installing them compressed, then releasing them once they were in place.

Don't know if this helps you at all or not, but it looks very similar to a 1985 300zx we have in the shop today doing a waterpump/timing belt on. I snapped a couple of pics for you:

They're not mine to sell... Speak to Bender.

I just cheked rates... somewhere between 300-400 to ship....

I'm still not there... I must be phase 3.... lol

It's already there. I'll post pics after paint and install.

I have no intention on getting into anything that would be that big. This is my daily truck to take me 80k back and forth to work every day.

It's a poor picture, looks much better in person. We shaped it so it didn't look like a railroad tie bolted onto the back of the truck.

In the middle of fabricating a bumper for the truck: still need to finish the swing arm and paint.

There is about a 1" difference between the front and rear, however a lot of the different look in the pic could be because there's a little bit of a slope in the parking lot.

I have not, for the same reason's as you stated. I carry liability only on my vehicles, as I didn't pay a lot for them in the first place. If someone hits me, and it's not my fault, insurance will cover the repairs even without collision insurance coverage If I hit someone and it's my fault, I'm not making a claim, and will try my best to have the other person not call insurance either, just pay to have their vehicle repaired (but I have body shop connections) As far as theft, I will do whatever I can to make sure my stuff cannot be taken. When I mount a winch on the truck, I'm going to mig weld the bolts so they can't be un-bolted, same as any lights, bumper, etc... When it comes to insurance, it better be worth your while to make a claim. In my business, I see so many people call their insurance for small dings and scrapes on their cars, pay $300/$500/$1000 deductables, when a lot of the time, I could have repaired it for what they paid for a deductable, or close to it. Now they've got a claim against their record, and even though a lot of companies forgive the 1st one, as soon as they have a 2nd one, they pay 10x over for that repair in increased premiums.

To find a water leak, climb in the back and close everything up. Have a friend use a garden hose (not a pressure washer) and hose down the suspected areas. Run the water for several minutes in each location and watch for it coming in.

It may settle eventually, and with a bumper and winch too, but it wouldn't have driven very well the way it was. I may have to install the spacers afterwards.

So, 7 hours later, almost busting a finger, and almost throwing a strut across the shop...... it's in... I knew AC lifts were inconsistant, but I knew there was something wrong.. Got the whole front put together, and man did it look high.. figured it was because the back wasnt done, so put the back together. Something still didn't look right: Before: After: Thats right... 4 inches The back Before: After: Thats right... 2 inches.. The front was sitting higher than the back now: I had to take the whole front apart again and remove the spacers to bring it back to level again: Front final: Rear final: Final alignment: Before: After:

The bigger the tire, the longer it takes for 1 revolution. Your speedo/odometer will actually read lower than your actual speed, therefore your odometer will accumulate slower that it actually should. Never really a big deal for most people, it's the other way around that would cause issues. I agree with the GPS idea, that's what I did, or you could use http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html It will tell you the % off your new tires are, so just add that. I found using GPS that when I was going 100kph by speedo, I was actually running at 110kph. So I know now that if I'm on the highway, keep it around 90-95kph and I should be fine.

I'm in cambridge ontario.