morpheus

The plastic strap just broke, it happens. The struts only come with the struts, all the boots, mounts, etc... are extra. The nut being missing... you can use the old one off your existing struts, is it worth the hassle of sending them back and waiting all over a nut? Your call.

Well, I don't know about $1000's.. The actual struts are only about $100 bucks more a piece than the regular ones, but a lot of times you find one or both of the actuator motors on the top of the strut don't work, and they're $500 a piece. You wouldn't have to pull the dash, the switches just pop out with a little pursuasion.

If you open your hood and look at the top of the strut mounts, that's where the electronic portion of the adjustable strut is. When the switch in the cab is flipped, the little motors turned an adjustment knob on the top of the strut to change the valving in them. Honestly, I don't think I've ever seen someone replace the electronic versions with the same. The regular struts will bolt right into place, and just toss the electrical motors in the garbage. If you want, you can rewire that switch to do something else (off road lights?) or you could get a switch blank and remove it completely.

With the original head unit gone, the best way to tell if it came with a bose unit would be to pull a door panel and pull out a speaker. If it's a bose speaker, you'll find an amp bolted to it, if not, then you won't. At the dealership we order replacement ones based on the model number right on the head unit, however if you took your VIN# into your local dealership, they may also be able to trace it back for you.

You should be able to get an oil line made cheaper than that. I had replacement hydraulic hoses custom made for our lot snow plow including all the fittings and labour I seem to remember them being around $20-$25 a piece. A standard oil line should be even cheaper.

I use that calculator all the time, great tool. Basically looking for if you run 5 different 31x10.5r15 tires, is there anywhere that would tell you of the 5 which would have the best MPG rating.

Does anyone have any links, or knowledge on how much different tires may affect gas mileage. I'm not refering to tire size specifically, as we all know that bigger trucks and bigger tires will eat fuel, what I'm getting at is more along the lines of different manufactures of the same/similar sizes. Also wondering if load range of a tire would affect mileage too. - ie: higher load range = more rubber = heavier tire?

I just replaced the clutch on my 98 with 300,000km on it. I just use the clutch for 1st gear accel from lights and usually from 4th to 5th (cause I've missed it too many times to bother) so my 1-2 shift, 2-3 shift and 3-4 shift is usualy done without using the clutch pedal at all. The only time a clutch wears is inbetween your foot being on the floor and fully up position.

I've never looked into if you could do it without nissan tools (because I've never had to) If you have access to a service manaual you can look it up. (I'm not at work at the moment to look it up for you) I'm fairly sure that most aftermarket scanners (snapo, etc...) cannot do it, so you might have to go to the dealer to do it. It won't do any damage I would charge a customer 1/2 hour labour to do this procedure, ($45 bucks) so it's not super expensive to do, but I can't speak for other dealers of course..

If it happened right after you disconnected the battery, it won't be a pump issue. Whenever a battery is replaced/disconnected on new-er nissan's (and possibly other makes too) the ecu will loose all it's base settings. In some cases, this will also include window top/bottom settings, sunroof open/close positions, INCLUDING base idle settings. At the shop we would do a procedure caled an "idle air learn" and that would cure your starting problem. I'm not sure if simply driving it would relearn it, but it's worth a try. If not you may need to stop into your local dealer and ask for the above procedure to be done.

Sounds like someone has tried to fix it previously. Get rid of the extra wire, solder the drl and you might just be fine.

All Nissan DTRL modules work on the same principal. Ususally a bad DRL module will make 1 headlight appear burnt out, not both on high beam.

There is a unique engine code stamped on the block (near the belhousing I believe) that can be cross-referenced to the VIN. I don't think it will tell you what the engine was from, but it would give you a yes/no answer to if it matched your vin or not.

We resolder them all the time, and very rarely have we had one that came back and needed a replacement after.

Dude.... you lost me at "disclaimer" lol

If the hatch is so mangled that it won't release even after you take the inside panel off and try to flip the latch, you may need to force it open. Since you sound like you're replacing the complete tailgate, you could cut a hole in the old door and hammer the crap out of the old lock till it breaks and releases. You may find the striker out of position too if it was hit hard enough.

I'm looking at this bumper from 4x4parts.com They list it as for 99.5-04 pathfinder. Although the 96-99.5 pathy had the steel bumpers, and the 99.5-04 pathfinder had a fascia cover, as far as I know, the underneath is basically the same. an R50 is an R50 from 96-04. I emailed 4x4parts.com and they simply told me they haven't tried fitting it on an older R50, so they don't know if it will fit. Has anyone tried this one, or one similar on a 96-99.5 pathy? Thanks.

I've seen it a few times the auto 4wd will get stuck in 4low. Usually checking and clearing codes in the TCM will reset it and allow it to go back to 4wd. The transfer case also has a valve body in it just like your transmission does, and if there is some wear and metal filings in the fluid it can get jammed in the solenoids and make them stick. I'd suggest draining the fluid and checking it's condition. If theres metal in it, that could indicate a mechanical failure in progress.

Take the batteries out of both key fob's If it doesn't do it anymore, one or both of your key fobs need to be replaced. I have seen them send out random signals for panic or lock/unlock all by themselves.

Does anyone have pics of a welded diff? Our plow truck is a PITA (95 path) and I was looking at this as an option to gain traction.

It would be a lot easier to stop into carquest and pick up their aftermarket DTRL kit and wire it in. I'm not sure about the older vehicles, but the newer ones don't even have the wiring to the relays, not just the relay's missing. It's impossible to simply add DTRL just by plugging something into them. The one they sell at carquest is cheap ($30-$50 i think)

It's common for the DRL module to go in our trucks. Take the module out, and slide the plastic case off. You should be looking at a printed circuit board. Flip it over to the side with all the solder joints (components facing down) look closely at all the connections (a magnifying glass may be required) you will find 90% of the time that a joint has gotten hot and come disconnected from the board. Use a soldering gun and re-solder the connection, put it all back together and it should work. 10% of the time it's an actual component on the board that has failed, but 90% of the time it's just a joint.

It was done at my body shop, and I did the majority of the grunt work myself so....

Thats all you had? You're lucky.. check out these pics from my trip to the body shop...

sorry, should have put lol at the end of my sentence. lol