morpheus

Dude.... you lost me at "disclaimer" lol

A good quality extended warranty on a newer vehicle is worth the money, as long as it's not overpriced. The telemarketer extended warranty is 100% totally a SCAM! http://www.phonebusters.com/english/recogn...t_warranty.html

If the hatch is so mangled that it won't release even after you take the inside panel off and try to flip the latch, you may need to force it open. Since you sound like you're replacing the complete tailgate, you could cut a hole in the old door and hammer the crap out of the old lock till it breaks and releases. You may find the striker out of position too if it was hit hard enough.

I'm looking at this bumper from 4x4parts.com They list it as for 99.5-04 pathfinder. Although the 96-99.5 pathy had the steel bumpers, and the 99.5-04 pathfinder had a fascia cover, as far as I know, the underneath is basically the same. an R50 is an R50 from 96-04. I emailed 4x4parts.com and they simply told me they haven't tried fitting it on an older R50, so they don't know if it will fit. Has anyone tried this one, or one similar on a 96-99.5 pathy? Thanks.

I've seen it a few times the auto 4wd will get stuck in 4low. Usually checking and clearing codes in the TCM will reset it and allow it to go back to 4wd. The transfer case also has a valve body in it just like your transmission does, and if there is some wear and metal filings in the fluid it can get jammed in the solenoids and make them stick. I'd suggest draining the fluid and checking it's condition. If theres metal in it, that could indicate a mechanical failure in progress.

Take the batteries out of both key fob's If it doesn't do it anymore, one or both of your key fobs need to be replaced. I have seen them send out random signals for panic or lock/unlock all by themselves.

Does anyone have pics of a welded diff? Our plow truck is a PITA (95 path) and I was looking at this as an option to gain traction.

It would be a lot easier to stop into carquest and pick up their aftermarket DTRL kit and wire it in. I'm not sure about the older vehicles, but the newer ones don't even have the wiring to the relays, not just the relay's missing. It's impossible to simply add DTRL just by plugging something into them. The one they sell at carquest is cheap ($30-$50 i think)

It's common for the DRL module to go in our trucks. Take the module out, and slide the plastic case off. You should be looking at a printed circuit board. Flip it over to the side with all the solder joints (components facing down) look closely at all the connections (a magnifying glass may be required) you will find 90% of the time that a joint has gotten hot and come disconnected from the board. Use a soldering gun and re-solder the connection, put it all back together and it should work. 10% of the time it's an actual component on the board that has failed, but 90% of the time it's just a joint.

It was done at my body shop, and I did the majority of the grunt work myself so....

Thats all you had? You're lucky.. check out these pics from my trip to the body shop...

sorry, should have put lol at the end of my sentence. lol

The electronic part you are refering to tells the anti-theft computer that the key cylinder has turned, unlocking the car, and not that someone has broken a window and unlocked from the inside, or used a slim-jim through the window to open it. The physical turning part of the electronics might be in the wrong position for the system to know the door is locked or unlocked, or it could have been damaged in the break in attempt. I would not worry about chasing the problem until you can reconnect it to a properly working key cylinder, as this is probably the cause of the locks acting strange.

There is no screw kit for the pathfinder, just the 2.5, but you can use them on the pathfinder with no problems, thats why there is a washer on them.. they're meant for the 2.5l. If you really want to ensure you have no problems, you should remove the manifold and cat to make sure the screw isn't sitting in there. Down the road it could potentially dislodge and re-enter the engine.

It's not weaseling out of anything if it's an obvious error/problem, and anyways, prices are subject to change without notice, or they could honour the price and charge you $900 for shipping and handling.

Ya, it's not bad at all to do, as long as you keep track of where all the hoses and plugs go it's fairly straight forward. A couple hours for someone who's done it before, or an afternoon for someone who hasn't sould be plenty.

To the best of my knowledge, the fact that a company does not issue a recall on something does not mean that they are denying that it exists. Bottom line, is it's not a safety issue, recalls are only issued if there is a safety concern, this is not a safety issue, they will never issue a recall. Is it a royal pain in the ass for someone that it happens to? absolutly. Product campaigns on the other hand are a different story. That's when a manufacturer comes to the table and says.. you know.. we've had so many of these have problems, that we should issue a campaign to have these fixed in the interest of customer satisfaction. For a company to do that, there has to be a certain % of failures, I'm not privy to that number, I have no idea what it is. Do the screws come out? we already know the answer to that. How many vehicles were sold with these in them? what's the % of failure on them? I don't know the answer to that either. Did the service manager you were dealing with treat you poorly? maybe, that's for you to decide. I've said it before, I've only ever seen 1 3.5l with a screw come out, ever.. If I had never seen that before, I would probably tell a customer that I'd never heard of that problem. Doesn't mean that I'm trying to hide something, or protect nissan. Are there shops out there that try to rip people off? Yes, there is. I've personally worked for one that I refused to sell work that I didn't believe the vehicle required and was rewarded with a pink slip.. You need to feel comfortable and trust where you're having your service done. If you don't, you need to find somewhere else. As for letting something slide under warranty as Zibi mentioned, there's not really any such thing. Nissan's warranty is black and white. There's failure specs on parts and inspection procedures. Anything can be "covered" under warranty, that doesn't mean it will be paid by the manufacturer. You can bring your truck in for repair and I can replace anything I want and put it through warranty. You drive away, but when I send that invoice to Nissan for payment, if it doesn't meet critera, such as.. vehicle is over mileage, or over by date, they just reject it and do not pay for it. Then the dealership gets stuck with the bill. If you have and engine that blew up because you never changed the oil in it, and I replaced it under warranty, you'd drive away with a new engine. I'd probably even get paid by Nissan for it. BUT they have anywhere from the day of payment, all the way up to 5 years to call me up and say, you know that engine you replaced? send us a copy of the maintenance records on it, and if I cannot supply them, they simply charge us back. If a dealer lets something "slide" through under warranty, it's more likely something like my 2nd example than anything else.

I'm going to try to say this as politically correct as I can. 1) As a service manager, we have NO read: ZERO control over what nissan will or will not warranty. 2) There is a specific timeline of warranty on parts. 3yr/60,000km/36,000mi or 5yr/100,000km/60,000mi 3) Once that timeline is up, it is no longer Nissan's responsibility to pay for your repairs, it is the owner of the vehicle. 4) If Nissan decides that there is a reasonable grounds to issue a product campaign or safety recall then they will do so. 5) Until #4 is enacted, see #1 So there is no reason to get on someones case and tell them to do their research, there's still nothing they can do. Did anyone mention the mileage on this vehicle anywhere? I didn't see it posted. P.S. I'm not exactly sure what material they are, yes, they are not brass because they are magnetic, however in the altima's I saw that dropped them they were rolled up in tiny brass looking balls, so they must be a similar metal.

That's a common symptom for the older trucks and it almost always is the o2 sensor. Just follow the wire up from the exhaust till you find the plug.

Hope that works out for you. are you running 5w30? You could always try 10W30 and see if the thicker oil will help.

Transmission fluid used to be used because of the detergents in it would "clean" the engine. At least that's the way the theory went. I've never tried it, and never seen it "officially" written down anywhere.. I'd use a commercial engine flush, not the AFT, you never know what interaction with metal (bearings etc) there might be. I would also recommend checking you manfolds first. They are often mistaken for internal engine noises and always seem to go away after 10 minutes or so (metal expands and exhaust leak stops)

Start with a complete fluid flush. If there's air in the system, or a lot of moisture it will affect them a lot. Also make sure your rear brakes are adjusted properly If that all checks out and you still have a problem, then you may have a problem with the master cylinder.

I've got 5 hoists at my disposal. My motto is "I don't work outside in the cold and I don't work on the ground when I can lift it above my head" And my gut would need the clearance... lol.

Yep. The jack stands supported the axle. If you had the jack stands on say the control arm boxes, or on the body and removed the shock bolts, the rear diff would fall several inches possibly inujuring the installer.

I realize I'm bringing back an old thread to life, however I couldn't help but notice.... no-one mentioned putting a jack under the differential before taking the shock bolts out.... pretty important step if anyone's reading this in the future for instructions. The only exception to this is if you're leaving the truck sitting on it's wheels on the ground. If the rear tires are off the ground, use the support jack.