alexrex20

you have a switch for each light?

i'll get you a nice clean black 4-door if you sell me your white 2-door.

lmao we live in the same neighborhood? do you wheel your pathfinder? a couple of us are planning on going to BVORR (brazos valley off road ranch) in college station/bryan, next weekend.

HEY!!! i've seen you before! i saw you a few weeks ago on Rhodes Rd. as i was turning into my neighborhood. you flashed your lights at me. check out Texas Nissan Off Road. there's not many of us there, but it's a great place for info on the next meet/greet or wheelin' weekend.

time to swap in a V8. unless it's a VG30E, it's going to take some custom work to fit anything else, so might as well make it worthwhile.

i know people swear by the Staun deflators, but i've tried them on a friend's truck and it's still not as convenient as my ARB EZ-Deflator (or similar). it's designed to remove the valve core but keep it contained within the tool. it has a gauge to monitor air pressure as you air down. you can air down 34s from 38psi to 15psi in about 15sec. and at $35, it's much cheaper than the ~$60 Staun deflators. for as much beach fishing as i do, they're a worthy addition to the glove box.

i'm thinking that you're thinking about making the sickest R50 ever.

I know you're asking the other alex, but I'll answer anyway. my buddies all have terra grapplers on their pickup trucks and they're worthless off road. check out my youtube channel for a comparison of my pathy on highway-oriented ATs, against two trucks on new and new-ish Nitto terra grapplers.

You're welcome.

you don't even know what you know. you swear against BFG ATs but then you support them by saying there's nothing wrong with old technology and that your dad put them on his F150. pick a story and stick to it. either you like them or you don't. all we can deduce from your post is that the BFG AT is an old, antiquated tire best left for pavement pounding. when you really want to go off road, get an MT (even if you don't do mud).

the only way to replace that piece is to cut it off and weld in a new one. the other option would be to try and pull it out a bit, then fill it with bondo and/or fiberglass it. it shouldn't be $1800 but it's not going to be cheap. i say ignore it. you probably can't even tell it's damaged. your other option would be to get some rock sliders. they'll hide any previous damage, and prevent future damage.

thank you for proving my point.

you're right dean. i recently replaced my front rotors and reused my wheel bearings. i was thinking the wheel bearing is in the rotor (chevy style), but the rotor is bolted to the hub, which houses the bearing. brakes are not as easy as other vehicles, but they're still not difficult. but if it were me, i wouldn't mess with the rear drums until they started getting noisy.

for the money i'd get the BFG KM2s or SSwamper TSL Radials. at least they work in the (real) mud, unlike the BFG ATs.

if you're not going to mention what year pathy you're talking about, at least update your profile to show you have an 03 Pathy now. you don't need any extra parts to do your front/rear brakes. you could reuse your front wheel bearings, but it wouldn't hurt to replace them. the springs on the rear drums do not need to be replaced. the only other thing to watch for is front bearing preload and setting your rear parking brake.

the rear control arms should be replaced whenever Steeevo starts producing them.

the front wheel wells are larger than the rear, so tire-to-fender measurements don't accurately portray levelness.

it's not ATF so it won't be milky pink. it's gear oil so it will be like chocolate milk. if it looks bubbly and frothy, time to change the fluid. make sure you can get the top fill plug loose before you open the lower drain plug - for obvious reasons.

BFG AT is an old design

i hope you're planning on a lift if you're getting 275/75 tires

remove the fill plug, stick your finger in there and check the fluid. if it looks like chocolate milk, there's water.

mine aren't hidden lol

on my R50 i ran the wires for my four roof lights behind the weather stripping for the front driver's door. i just pulled back the seal, routed the wires behind it and replaced the seal. no drilling and no ugly wires. my wires all go to the engine bay. power comes from the battery, but switched power is from the driving lights and the interior switch is wired through the firewall.

the front shafts can't bind/pop if the tcase is not sending power to the front axle.

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