alexrex20

an open diff has no mechanism to prevent a wheel from spinning faster than the other. effectively, an open diff has a breakaway torque of 0lb-ft.

because he wants to

they must've also had the "driver mod." i'm still working on mine.

check the check valve in the fitting which connects the vacuum line from the intake to the booster housing (of course, check the entire vacuum line as well). air should flow through it in only one direction. it's rare for the booster itself to fail, especially on a vehicle as new as yours.

after you shut the engine off, there is no vacuum. you can pump the brakes once or twice before losing all pressure in the booster. maybe you've already exhausted the stored vacuum in the booster (by hitting the brakes with the engine off), by the time you try to start it again.

it's not that someone designed it to operate that way; it's the LAWS OF PHYSICS that decided that. the LAWS OF PHYSICS make it choose the tire with least traction.

that's why the trucks lean out when you add a TB spacer. perhaps you should take your nose out of the books and stick them under a few hoods.

2wd is still 2wd...

it is illegal in ALL 50 STATES to remove an emissions control device that came factory-equipped on the vehicle. simply because your county does not test for these parts does not mean it's legal to remove it. anyway, like stated above, an EGR valve should be shut at idle. if you have a crappy idle, get a better tune and/or fix your EGR. removing the EGR won't hurt anything, so that's another option if it is the EGR that's causing your driveability issues. manually actuating the EGR valve won't prove/disprove if it's seating shut at idle. the smallest amount of bypass will still affect your idle.

did you fail your high school physics?

i'm not familiar with the VG30I but if it is indeed a TBI engine, then a TB spacer will work. for best effect, a TB spacer should be used in conjunction with higher capacity/overclocked injectors.

on a true TBI engine (fuel is injected at the actual throttle body), a throttle body spacer can improve performance when coupled with bigger injectors. it was a common/cheap mod on the TBI sbc350. on a VG nissan, it's pointless.

if you don't even know what the name is, perhaps you should leave it alone.

yes and yes.

our trucks are slow, and will always be slow. some people just won't accept that fact.

you would pollute more. EGR only opens when you're cruising (highway driving). so if you want that extra horsepower when you've got your cruise control set at 65mph, by all means - disconnect your EGR. have fun getting the truck inspected.

well said. but alas, a reworked VG will probably still be only as powerful as a stock VQ, but arguably at the same or higher cost.

there are no supporting mods for nonexistent horsepower. there is no need for an upgraded ignition system if you don't have an upgraded fuel system. even still, upgrade both systems without necessity, and you will still see no power gains. (what good is extra fuel/spark if you don't have extra air?) the only situation that warrants fuel/ignition upgrades are when you already have a significant power increase (forced induction, nitrous, etc.). simply installing bigger wires or high-performance plugs will do nothing for an engine that is not modified. it will give you the capacity for increased power, but they themselves will not increase your power. save your money and just get NGK platinum or iridium plugs, and OEM-spec plug wires.

hot exhaust is an inert gas and will not burn. the air/fuel mixture will and does burn at several 1000F hotter than exhaust gases. it effectively leans out the AFR, but not by fuel starvation or air over-supply. it dilutes the AFR with an inert gas. EGR doesn't operate under high-load situations so it doesn't affect peak performance. if you're getting on it, the EGR will be off.

lol @ spark plugs increasing hp

FWIW, mine actually stays in 4wd. if the light is on, but the lever is in 2wd and i try to negotiate a tight turn, i can tell it's still in 4wd. when it finally comes out of 4wd, i can feel it thud underneath me.

mine does the same thing. if i have the option to stop, then i'll do that and make sure it comes out of 4wd first. otherwise, i just leave the lever in 2wd and wait for it to pop out of gear. sometimes it does it at 20mph, sometimes at 60mph. the other option is to just continue on the highway in 4wd. as long as you have the same size tires front and rear, it shouldn't be a problem.

...

oddly enough, the most aesthetic damage my bumper has received is from the floppy lane divider thingies on the highway, which i hit at about 65mph. they put little scuff marks on the face and also scratched one of my bumper stickers.

yes, a 265-width tire will fit better on an 8.5in wheel than a 7in wheel.