alexrex20

no. it might be time to flush your ATF, replace the filter and/or replace/clean the solenoids. if your clutch packs are worn, the metal particles will clog the solenoids and cause improper shifting. it wouldn't hurt to drop your trans pan to change fluid, and/or check the magnetic drain plug for excessive metal particles. it's not abnormal to have some, but you'll know if it's too much.

autozone only checks CELs on '98+ vehicles with an OBDII port.

haha, i noticed that also. if we trust his comma placement, then it sounds like it only needs a TB.

when Pete and i ordered our ARB bumpers, that was the same impression we got: that we're lucky that ARB still has the tooling to make bumpers for such an old vehicle. they had none in stock and only required a minimum order of two to begin production. considering all of this, maybe we Pathy owners shouldn't wait so long if an off-the-shelf wincher is really, truthfully on our list. who knows how much longer ARB will produce the Sahara bar for late R50s...

among the years, there were 3 different transmissions available in the US.

perhaps i should've been more specific: an alternator can not recharge a dead battery. if the battery was completely discharged, the cells have probably been permanently damaged. regardless, an alternator has a built-in regulator which only allows it to charge up to ~14v. it does not have the amperage output at that little voltage to efficiently recharge a battery (say, one that's down to only about 11V).

E-A/T is a tow mode which keeps the transmission from upshifting too soon/often. it keeps you in the powerband, and also helps prevent overheating due to frequent shifting. if your transmission has E-A/T, it is electronically controlled and thus probably does not use vacuum to regulate line pressure. in that case, try checking the fuse(s) and/or fusible links for the E-A/T.

an alternator doesn't have the capacity to actually recharge a battery. all it can do is keep a battery from getting drained while the vehicle is running (by providing its own ~14 volts to power the vehicle). if you ever discharge a battery, use a proper battery charger, or take it to AutoZone/Wal-Mart or wherever you purchased the battery. they should recharge it for free. i'm not familiar with the WD21 pathfinders, but it sounds like you have a vacuum leak. older transmissions (pre-electronics) use vacuum to maintain/adjust line pressure, which is then used to decide when and how aggressively the transmission will shift. i'm not sure that your transmission operates in such a way though. it definitely makes sense, considering you also noticed a loss of power - which a vacuum leak would also cause. try and listen for a whooshing sound under the hood. also, you can back-trace all the vacuum lines going into your intake manifold/pipe/airbox.

lol @ 250(!) paid orders.

not to bump an old thread, but one of the Aussies over on PCoA has just done a write-up with pics, on his front Lokka installation. i'm awaiting correspondence with 4WD Systems for pricing and shipping to us Americans. we never get any good stuff... http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1...ka+front#p31533 once i get my lift installed, i'm repacking the rear LSD with more clutch discs and installing a front Lokka.

i'm partial to the ARB...

it's not as annoying as you complaining about it.

and your second set of front shocks... when i get my lift i will for sure try it again with no front sway.

anybody want a 31-spline LSD? anything else?

no. i looked directly at the part, and remembered this thread, but it didn't dawn on me to get the part for him. ticker, i'd be more than happy to go back and get it for you. just paypal me $10. let me know!

if only it were that easy to install them on mine. i have no idea why they switched the design.

i just got back from the pick-a-part. there were 2 early R50 Pathfinders and an early R50 QX4. also, there were 3 WD21s. the other pick-a-part is a bit further, but 3x the size. i'm sure they'd have even more to pick from.

actually, the earlier R50s do use a double shear lower shock mount. i'm not sure of the bolt size, but it is definitely not the same setup as mine; it is the more traditional mount, similar to the uppers. i just got back from the junkyard and had a look at a few early R50 Pathy/QX4 trucks. the bilstein 7100s should bolt up with minimal fuss. you'd only have to replace the 14mm bolt with a 1/2in bolt.

if you're talking about Warn manual hubs, then you should have part number 29091.

several people use the bilstein 5100 without issue. the 7100 is a better shock, but is not a direct application for a Pathfinder, so he has to tell you that to avoid liability. also, so they're not entitled to refunding money to idiots like me when we buy shocks that end up not fitting.

shock discussion is scattered among many different threads, i'm afraid. with the bilsteins, though, keep in mind that the 7100s are not a bolt-on shock. they use 1/2in heim ends and the 5/8in lower bolt they're supposed to mount onto is welded on the axle. the 5100 and 5150 shocks would be plug-and-play because they use fitted bushed ends. if i had known the 5/8in stud is welded onto my axle, i would not have bought the bilsteins. i would've bought fox shocks which are available with 3/4in heim ends, which can be paired with 5/8in misalignment spacers for a perfect fit. oh well. i'll tackle that problem when my shocks get here.

congrats on the purchase! 1. you can reuse the factory struts, but for a better ride, people upgrade to KYB or Rancho. from what i've seen, the majority of people use KYB GR2, and then Rancho and then OME. it's up to you. i just ordered some KYB GR2s used from a fellow member, FWIW. 2. if you want adjustability, you can get ProComp ES3000 (from 4WheelParts.com) or Ranch RS9000XL (most popular). they're both very affordable. i'm using Bilstein 7100s with 12in travel. 3. you shouldn't need any additional hardware to do this install. with the AC lift, people need one or two pairs of camber bolts, but some people don't need them at all with the OME lift. if you're going to do this yourself, you'll need the basic tools, and a coil spring compressor. 4. a 265/70/16 tire is technically a 30.6in tire, so those BFG ATs should be just fine.

most junkyards keep their parts inventoried these days, so all it takes is a simple phone call to see if they have what you need. it's a 'load-sensing brake proportioning valve.' i can't imagine the whole assembly costing more than $50, so that little bracket should be $5-10, if not free. if you have a pick-a-part near you (a self-serve type of junkyard), it would be even cheaper. as far as welding, any exhaust shop (or a friend who can weld) should be able to do it for you for $5-10 as well.

is canada really THAT strict about stuff like this? down in texas, anything goes.

they'll probably only sell you the entire kit, not just the broken piece, so it will be expensive. your best bet is to get a used piece from a junkyard, if you insist on OEM.