alexrex20

well of course, if you're swapping axles then your options are infinite.

in that case, our only option for rear is ARB. for the front it's ARB or Lokka.

ARB makes front and rear air lockers for R50s

the brackets are pretty intricate. they use 3 large and 2 small bolts. there's a metal tab thingy that fits nicely into the ARB bracket, but can be a PITA if you're making a custom mount. you can see the metal tab in the first pic: '

thanks for the info Dave!

no harder than a "true" locker. if the diff is locked, the diff is locked.

it's a very bad idea. but if you have manual hubs and thus the ability to disengage your front drive axle for pavement driving, then it shouldn't be an issue. we have no snow/ice here so i never have to use 4WD on pavement. you snowbound geeks may not want this mod.

i slammed on mine pretty hard, and they never bent. i finally removed them when i got under the truck and saw that the bottoms were either completely missing, rusted and were about to be missing, or completely smashed in. they looked fine from the top, though!

that wasn't definitive at all. i don't see your logic that engine braking will keep the tires from locking up, but i'm not going to re-open this can of worms.

doubt it. no shop will accept the liability of welding a diff. i wouldn't do it if you didn't have manual locking hubs, anyway.

you have more clearance now, but you also have no protection. they're not sliders by any means, but they'll still protect your rockers from small scrapes and dents. with that said, i don't have mine on, either.

because you have to push the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads. i don't force the fluid back into the master cylinder, though many people do. some vehicles (maybe not ours) can be damaged by doing this.

you weld the spider gears to their shaft.

i never said it was an auto locker. it is though, for all intents and purposes, a selectable locker. the only difference is that instead of flipping a switch in the cabin, you have to get out and twist the dials on your hubs. it should put no more wear/tear on your driveline than a Lokka, Detroit, ARB, etc.

they still haven't replied. anyway, what about welding up the front diff? i don't see the problem as long as you have manual hubs. keeping them locked on the trails is no different than a Lokka, which stays engaged any time you're giving it gas. as long as you stay unlocked on the street, it shouldn't make a difference... so theoretically, i can just about have a rear locker (repacked LSD) for $20 and a front locker for free. $20 + a weekend's work ain't so bad.

buy a titan

+ on everything MY1PATH said. the voltage regulator cuts off AC output at ~14.4V. may i suggest not using the same shop for the 6th replacement?

if it's not a true overdrive, then 2nd and 4th gears will be shared, similar to 1st and 3rd gears. the symptoms still support my diagnosis, regardless of true overdrive or true 4th gear. a 90-95 AOD transmission will probably drive your truck, but you may have issues with the ECU and CELs.

dude, you're trying too hard.

or dirty fluid.

what kind of wheels do you have? i think they'd look great in a dark gray or black. if the shop is test-fitting wheels for you, it's their own fault if they f*ck them up.

your voltmeter reads 16-18V at the battery? time to replace the alternator...

you have transmission problems once, now all of the sudden you're the transmission expert. your transmission was overheated and the clutch packs were disintegrating. the metal particles were clogging the solenoids, causing it to shift at weird times. the reason it was hit-and-miss is because when the truck has been sitting for awhile, the particles settle at the bottom but when you've been driving it for awhile, they get stirred up and block the solenoids again. a fluid change would've remedied the symptom temporarily, but not fixed the problem. SC88 is having a similar issue. he lacks line pressure, causing his transmission to upshift late into 2nd, early into 3rd, and late into 4th, with a favor for 3rd. 1st and 3rd gear are on the same drum, 2nd gear is dedicated, and 4th (true overdrive) also has its own dedicated set of gears/clutch packs. line pressure works both ways, so a clog in the valve body can easily cause a delayed 2nd gear shift, a premature 3rd gear shift, and a reluctance to stay in OD. SC88, you can buy yourself some time as well by doing a fluid change, as well as replacing/cleaning the solenoids and valve body. that won't fix the problem of disintegrating clutches, though. if you prolong repair, it will eventually lead to the transmission not going into gear altogether - kinda like it's stuck in neutral. like unccpathfinder recommends, you should try finding a replacement trans. they should be easy to find, whether or not you want a direct pull from a junker, or a rebuilt trans. a friend and a few jacks (and the basic hand tools) is all it takes to swap them out.

TPS + MAF + CKP/CMP + WSS all help decide if/when the transmission shifts.

my bad. i just skimmed through the posts and wasn't paying attention.