alexrex20

that's why they suggest electric fan over clutch fan. but if you're driving through water so deep that the fan is submerged in water, then you have more important things to worry about - water in the engine, water in the cab, etc.

the VG is a tolerance engine so can you explain more when you say "the timing belt was broken"?

typically if you install an auxiliary electric fan, it is also manually selectable so you can turn it off/on when you want. at a water crossing, you'd want it off so it doesn't spray water all over your engine bay and possibly into/onto your distributor and other electronics. a clutch fan (engine-driven) will always be spinning. i'm sure there are other reasons, as well.

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ya, it's probably a p***y.

i only ordered the lowers for now. and if you consider the substantial cost of just the johnny joints themselves, it's worth it to me to pay the (reasonable) extra cost for materials and labor. at least i know i'm getting a quality part.

i think this is the one you're looking for. the pic in the link is inaccurate; it's a general file photo. http://www.courtesyparts.com/cargo-area-pr..._5846_5847&

bump, in case anyone missed this. (i really want this to happen!)

generally the water pump is replaced at the same time as the timing belt, because all that crap has to come off anyway, just for the water pump. if it were me, i guess i'd wait until it craps out because it's very labor-intensive. cap and rotor is very cheap ($18 + $9, or something like that) and also very easy (about 5min) so i'd do it if it hasn't been done recently. there's nothing wrong with running better than 'fine,' right?

made sense to me, but a few periods or commas would've helped.

not on an R50 they're not. especially not mine!

it's a friction LSD so it's probably just old and worn out. mine has LSD but it's not worth a damn.

didn't you have a bad oil leak from that accident? what other damage was there?

the only thing you should be worried about is if the shop will press charges when you go back and tell them they're f*cking idiots that are trying to rip you off. i wouldn't worry about that "leak" in the least bit.

well, if he's looking to buy a D44 front, then i'm assuming he's going to SAS. if that's the case, you'd have to swap out the H233B because the Dana and Hitachi don't offer the same gear ratios. (you can get them close enough to be safe, so long as you only ever engage 4x4 in the dirt/snow/mud/etc.) the H233B is indeed strong enough to handle 33s or even 35s, but the main limiting factor is the lack of aftermarket. dare i venture to say the H233B is stronger than a D44? yes, yes i do.

if this first pre-order set of 6 isn't met, this item may never be offered ever again. we only need 3 more orders (R50 or WD21). come on everyone!!!! what happened to everyone that was "very interested" in the feeler thread?

make that 3 more. i'm glad you decided to make some R50 links, Steve.

half the idiots on the road already drive with their brights on anyway, so who cares if you run HIDs in halogen housings? i just use it as an excuse to light them up with my airplane landing lights.

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cut it off and fab up a front clip, then you can put whatever you want - VK56, LS2/LQ9/etc,

very awesome indeed! much more modern

you can use those sliders as air storage. they're completely sealed so as long as you have fittings installed, they will hold air pressure.

those nerf bars don't weigh anymore than 30lb

he changed his mind about making R50 links so it doesn't matter anyway.

lmao @ $150 AUD for those. i can get them made for about $20.