alexrex20

just because it's cheaper than its competitors does not mean it's a good deal. for $60k i'd get an FJ40 and put $50k into it.

i'd drive a (four-cylinder) 4BT-swapped R50.

cut it off and fab up a front clip, then you can put whatever you want - VK56, LS2/LQ9/etc,

very awesome indeed! much more modern

you can use those sliders as air storage. they're completely sealed so as long as you have fittings installed, they will hold air pressure.

those nerf bars don't weigh anymore than 30lb

he changed his mind about making R50 links so it doesn't matter anyway.

eh. if i was going to spend that much money, it wouldn't be on a RWD minivan.

the 7-speed tranny helps with fuel economy by helping keep the engine in its powerband. less effort = less fuel consumed. also, 7 is bigger than 5 or 6. the 390hp, i would say is simply because they can. look at the 500hp AMG SUVs and 600hp family sedans. why? because you can! :D

lmao @ $150 AUD for those. i can get them made for about $20.

the only way to be sure is to email BFGoodrich. that tire place may just be trying to sell you 31s or 33s because they had no 32s in stock.

so measure your own truck and give them to him.

i'm going to at least try without front sways once i get the new struts/coils. i'll just run them with the end links disconnected. if i don't like it, i'll connect them. if it's not too bad, i'll remove the sway completely.

i was under the impression that you would market them for WD21s and R50s? that's what your first post said in that linked thread. i understand there's a bigger demand for WD21 pieces, but we need some lovin' as well!

in my experience, shops charge a premium for on-car brake service. at that cost, i'd rather just buy new rotors and install them myself. it is a huge PITA but really not that difficult or time-consuming. it should only take 30-45min each side, including bearing repack (not required, but recommended if you're already that far), caliper bleed, etc. that's a lot longer than the 3min it takes on other trucks, so it all depends on our laziness, cheapness, and the shop's costs for labor. back to engine braking, i think i was misinterpreting your post as you using engine braking for all braking situations. around houston, the steepest incline is usually the entrance to the wal-mart parking lot, so it was a bit over the top of my head when you said you "always use it." god forbid i'm in the mountains, i always use engine braking to help maintain speed while not overheating the brakes.

fwiw, i haven't see any increase in mpg since i installed my hubs. but like dean, fuel economy was not a driving force behind my decision to buy.

well, i'd have to pay shipping regardless, whether it's from you or a retailer, so i don't mind that. can you PM me your asking price?

well, with your hubs unlocked, it's bad to engage 4x4 at 60mph. and yes, 2LO was very handy when trying to back a heavy trailer up a steep incline at an angle.

probably worse, lol

not only is it an oxymoron, but your computer won't like you very much if you put it into Auto-4WD with the hubs unlocked.

by having two johnny joint with opposite threading (left-hand and right-hand), all you need to do is loosen the jam nut, and twist the center section. because of the opposite threads, it will either lengthen or shorten itself. with only one johnny joint, the link will have to be completely removed to be adjusted. two johnny joints allow adjustment without being removed.

we don't need snow to have stupid drivers. just rain, or californians.

eventually you get the hang of it and always mind your hands/elbows/etc. i'm still having a hard time about minding my head, though.

apparently i like your apples also!

well, my uncle's coworker told me that your grandpa is wrong. unless you can replicate a scenario without fault or deviation, many times for a control, then neither you nor your grandpa can determine whether or not the engine braking was the reason his ass was saved on that single specific incident. as for knowing if the truck is at its maximum... if it is a panic situation and you are trying to get all you can from your brakes (which you claim are in good working condition), then you are also at the limit of adhesion from your tires. but, it's obvious you don't believe me or anyone else. so in your stubbornness, go ahead and test your truck. hell, throw it in reverse to see if that works. just don't kill yourself.