alexrex20

larger tires will make ABS more sensitive. remember, ABS uses wheel speed to determine whether or not a tire has locked up. the larger the tire, the more exaggerated the speed differential will be among the 4 tires, during the same amount of slip compared to stock tires. effectively, it will take a smaller amount of lockup to trigger the ABS.

it should be common knowledge (especially to someone as learned as you) that the rear brakes receive less brake pressure than the front via a proportioning valve (or some other device of the same purpose). the front brakes do more work, so they receive more pressure. they receive more pressure, so they are the first to lockup. if you don't want to disable your ABS to see if i'm right, so be it. that doesn't change the fact that your front brakes will lockup first. and you're right: it is the same with all braking systems, whether they're disc/disc or disc/drum or drum/drum. there's a reason why the front brakes are (usually) larger than the rears in a disc/disc setup, or the fronts are disc and the rear are drums. the physics of dynamic weight transfer dictate such. not only do the fronts do more of the work and receive more pressure, but in our specific case (with a disc/drum setup), the drums themselves cannot even provide as much clamping force as discs. so even if your brakes were rear-biased, your front brakes will still be doing more work. and will lockup first. if you have no ABS, and lockup all 4 tires, there's a good chance that you will spin wildly and uncontrollably, because all 4 tires will have zero traction. if you at least have rear ABS, even if you lockup your front tires, you will still track reasonably straight because your rear tires will not lose traction. of course, you will have no steering ability, but at least the rear tires will still have traction and allow you to continue forward in a straight line. both instances would be considered a loss of control, albeit the latter notably less so.

the nitto terra grapplers are garbage in the mud and sand, but good in the rain and on the highway. i swapped them for non-revo duelers within 5k miles. the ltx a/t2 is the best tire I've ever tried, to be honest.

it's a bit naive and irresponsible to compare a truck to a mountain bike. the bike has individually controlled brakes, where the truck's brakes aren't infinitely variable. moreover, our trucks have rear drum brakes which by application receive only a small percentage of braking pressure. regardless of weight transfer, on a disc/drum setup the front will always be doing more work. forget your bike, slam on your truck brakes and see which lockup first.

the problem i have with rear-only (1-channel) ABS is that it really never turned on! front brakes do the vast majority of your braking, so if you ever had to slam on the brakes, it's the front brakes that will lock up first. in fact, unless you're in the snow/ice/mud/sand, you can almost be sure that you'll never lock up the rear tires. it is good to have rear ABS, if nothing at all, because rear ABS will at least make you lose control in only one direction. if you were to lock up all four tires, you would lose control and be spinning in circles. so, just because you never felt them work, does not mean they did not work. it just means that you were never so cocky screwed that your rear ABS engaged. and that noise that you're hearing is the noise that all ABS systems make. the point of an ABS system is to allow the tires to maintain traction by preventing them from locking up. (the coefficient of static friction is greater than that of sliding friction; you have more grip when you're not skidding, obviously.) to do this, the ABS pump will pulse the brakes hundreds of times per second, effectively never giving the tires the chance to really lock up. we as humans could pulse the brakes maybe 2 times per seconds - 3 times if we're lucky. so not only does an ABS system have the ability to infinitely pulse the brakes until traction has been regained, but it can also unerringly complete the task. not all of us have the know-how or self-control to pulse the brakes in an emergency situation. but back to the noise: the noise and vibration in the pedal is feedback from the ABS pump doing its thing - pulsing hundreds of times per second.

i think the changeover may have been in 99.5. my 00 has much more stopping power than my 98 ever did, and has the same front brakes as shown in the pic of laxman's 01. :02:

lol, i didnt know the center caps fit over the manual hubs. i wonder if it'd be more hassle to have them on, though? EDIT: well i'll be damned! they do fit, lol. oh well, i think i already threw away the front center caps. as for the wheels sticking out further... if i didn't have the factory fender flares, my tires would stick out like a mother. as it sits now, the tires line up flush with the outer edge of the fender flares. and i'm only running 265/70/16 michelin LTX A/T2. laxman, did your rig come with those Duelers, or you put them on? are they the Revos? if so, how do you like them? also, when the hell are you going to mount the X rims on your new truck?!

to remove studs, you use the 'double nut' method. it's pretty simple. you just thread 2 nuts onto the stud, then snug them up against each other. then you use an open-end wrench on the first nut to remove the stud. by tightening the 2 nuts into each other, they also put pressure and grab onto the stud, so when you wrench on the first nut, it backs out the stud. installation is the opposite.

not to thread jack, but what's everyone's opinion on bedlining the interior floor? i want to do the floor and about 6in up the sides. yay or nay?

fwiw, i didn't change out the studs when i installed my warn hubs. the oem studs were plenty long enough for the supplied washers and nuts. and i was lazy.

go to your local auto parts store and see how much it is for a complete rebuilt caliper. on my truck the caliper rebuild kit was $18; for only $29 you could get a complete ready-to-install refurbished caliper. of course, you should first confirm that it is indeed your caliper that's leaking the fluid.

perhaps nissan made it too easy to unplug the rear ABS sensors. the stick on the beach made real short work of it on the last fishing trip. but to add to my first post: ABS will save your ass 9 times out of 10, unless you're pretty damn good at threshold braking, and can unhesitatingly counter-intuitively let off the brakes once you've locked them up, to allow the tires to regain traction. in theory it sounds pretty simple, but most people find it hard to let off the brakes when they're closing in on that ditch or pole or pickup truck at a speed decidedly higher than they'd like. everyone's reaction is to push harder on the brakes; a reaction catered and encouraged by ABS-equipped brakes. disable your ABS at your own risk.

yes, you can just pull the fuse to disable ABS. be sure you "feel the difference" on an empty road or parking lot, because trust me - there is a difference. arguably though, ABS is a hinderance in low-traction situations like mud, snow, wet grass, etc. but is generally a good thing on the street.

you give them too much credit. they broke 2 torque wrenches trying to break bolts loose, and needed a spring compressor for the stock rear coils.

i have the LTX A/T2 on mine and they are awesome. they're a great highway tire (though they do make a little bit of noise, but more of a hum, not a groan) and still work exceptionally well off-road. they look good, as well. the major downside is the price, but i got the hookup from my buddy at discount tire. they're priced comparable to BFG A/Ts but IMO, the BFGs suck on the highway and are even worse in the rain.

you should go for at least a 2in thick coat.

so you have big guys that can't break the bolts loose with a breaker bar, so yall decide to use a torque wrench? that's pretty stupid, if you ask me.

really? because your pathfinder has a distributor.

all you do is take some long vacuum tubing (or fuel line, or whatever), attach it to your diff, then run it up to a high point under the frame.

i just disconnected my lower airbox (in the fender) from the upper airbox (in the engine bay). i didn't actually remove it; i just removed the hard rubber gasket connecting the two pieces, effectively creating a large air gap. the engine can kinda still pull in cold air from the fender, but because of the air gap, water in the lower airbox will not be sucked into the engine. the only way is if the upper airbox is underwater. when i sunk the pathy on new year's eve, the water level was halfway up my headlights, and it still didn't suck water into the airbox. i don't plan on going much deeper than this: yes, that's water in the driving light. the airbox is shown removed in the pic. we pulled it off to confirm that no water had gotten into the airbox.

navaro snorkels work on R50s. we can't expect you to know this, considering you insisted that there were multiple lockers available for the 33-spline H233B.

this thread is called 'show off your R50 (pic)' so this IS the CORRECT forum.

99.5+

IIRC, the all-mode tcase has an oil pump driven by the front drive-shafts. if you disengage the front, you disable the oil pump and can potentially overheat the tcase. don't quote me on that, though.

lol, yours isnt lifted either. my power antenna snapped last month in the car wash (my fault). i replaced it for $13.60. 4.6 > 4.3. literally but if you really want to know where you said top of the line, i can post the AIM convo where you made a point that yours is SE and mine is LE. anyway, andrew, do you know if you can make it to barnwell this weekend? if i can get all the bugs worked out tomorrow, i'll for sure be there. the rest of the houston group is leaving friday morning (mostly).