alexrex20

it increases rear brake pressure when the rear is squatting (heavy load), and decreases pressure when the rear is lifting (heavy braking). the latter is somewhat important because you don't want the rear tires to lock up under heavy braking, when dynamic weight transfer puts most of the weight on the front axle (and the nose drops). less weight on the rear axle, with the same brake pressure, means you will lockup your rear tires more easily; and the front brakes will not be getting as much braking power as they're capable of exerting on the brakes/tires. the fronts do most of the work. it should be an easy fix. just remove the snapped off piece, drill the piece that's dangling and re-bolt it to the diff. or you can go to a junkyard/pick-a-part and get the piece for a few bucks.

my point was that if you want something that handles and performs like a car, then why buy an SUV, then try and make it less SUV-like and more car-like? you should've started off with a car in the first place - or a minivan. i own a corolla so it was nothing against corollas.

that would be a correct assumption.

no! order the full set now.

try a 4x4 shop. i don't think it'd be hard to adapt a set off a different truck to fit our R50s. it would certainly be worth a try, considering the lack of other (affordable) options.

here's to hoping!

lol, are you in the wrong thread?

well how hard are you hitting it?! fine threading is much more susceptible to damage from impact, than a big steel nut. with that said, a set of tie rod/ball joint removal tools should be in every DIYer's tool box.

if this is your last resort, you can prevent the mushrooming by leaving a nut on the threading and tapping on it. you still shouldn't take a 20lb sledge to it, but it will protect the bolt from a few good whacks from a basic hammer.

for us R50 guys/gals, the biggest tire we can fit underneath is a 30in. i had a 31in under there and found out my track bar was rubbing on it! OEM rear tire carriers are few and far between on an R50, and they can't be retrofitted. so, if we want bigger tires, and a full-size spare, it's either a custom rear tire carrier, putting it in the trunk, or putting it on the roof.

sucks that you replaced the master cylinder and it wasn't the problem, but good that you did finally find the leak! you need to first figure out what part at the "T" junction has failed, whether it's the main line, one of the split lines (left/right), or the junction itself. you don't want to replace more than you need to. the fittings will also require a flare nut wrench. if you didn't already buy one, you can get them as singles at your local auto parts store (autozone, napa, advance, o'reilly, etc.) but i would recommend making sure what size you need first. you can use a normal open end wrench. the best advice i can give you, when you're dealing with pressure fittings, is that you always hand-thread the connections before wrenching on them. make double- and triple-sure that you are all the way on, before you start tightening with the wrench. the last thing you want to do is strip out the fitting. other than that, it's pretty straightforward. make sure to bleed the brakes extra well. and before you drive off for a test drive, pump the brakes to make sure you have brake pressure. you don't want to put it in gear, only to find that the only thing to stop your truck is your garage door, or your neighbors car across the street! good luck, keep us updated.

the power windows operate on the same principle as the power antenna. whether going up or down, once it stops, it stops. yes, the ECU will relearn everything it 'forgot' but it may take a few days. you don't need to take it to the dealer. if it were me, i'd wait it out and see what happens. it really doesn't matter which terminal you reconnected first, as long as you didn't switch them between each other. an open circuit is an open circuit.

no it didn't. there's no way a leaf blower can keep up the cubic capacity that the engine alone will suck in at high rpm. period.

the white one (OBXbeachpathy) only has the AC lift and strut spacers.

the dust cap isn't being reused, so mangle it all you want as you remove it.

um, why don't you just run 32s?

wait, what?!

i secretly knew the answer, but was hoping somebody would post a testimonial of how they used washers and haven't had any catastrophic failure. i should've known you'd reply with the unfortunate truth.

couldn't you just use longer bolts and a couple washers? if you only needed 1/2-3/4in, i don't see why that wouldn't work just as well. the strut is load-bearing, but...

exactly. my "corolla" comment was actually my 3rd draft. i toned it down twice before i felt safe in posting it.

i'd ram your mini-truck if i saw it on the road.

sell the pathfinder and buy a corolla.

the file should've output in a wmv format, if you used windows movie maker.

yep, our R50s come factory with awesome 5-link rear suspension, and these upgraded rear links (or trailing arms) will make them even more so.

anybody else? this very well could be the beginning of a trend of new offerings for the R50s (and WD21s). let's at least give it the opportunity. i think we only need 2 more orders now.