alexrex20

i've learned to also check the info in their sig and under their screen name, because we all sometimes get a little lost.

ya, we tried different lines for quite awhile. my rear was completely flexed out and spin city. i couldn't just gas through it because of the left wall and the sheer drop on the right. the front had basically zero flex, so i'm going to wheel this weekend with it disconnected, to see how much less sucky my Pathy is.

the right way is to use a press, but as long as you're certain you're not damaging the shaft, then go for it. just make sure it comes off straight. the axle has an inner and outer grease seal. you're only replacing the outer grease seal - the one in the hub.

i have rear LSD, but it's shot and not worth a damn. here's me in my open diff glory trying to get up this flexy section. a stock locked Nismo Frontier made it up without a sweat, right before me. name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars="">

ok fine, don't stick your head under some hoods, but you should at least take your own advice and stick it in some books. a TB spacer adds air AFTER the throttle body, where the fuel is injected. if you have more air in the intake manifold but the same amount of fuel, you will have a higher air/fuel ratio - aka lean. this is the most basic concept of engine theory. for someone that's (supposedly) so learned on this subject, it shouldn't be that difficult to grasp. well you've already pissed your money away on a TB spacer if you don't have supporting fuel mods, so what's the big deal? the ECU only has a small capacity to accommodate a rich/lean AFR (read through the upstream O2S), by adjusting the fuel map. if you're leaning it out to the large extent that a TB spacer will do, then you had better have higher-capacity injectors if you want to see any worthwhile results. case in point: 88path's VG30i has a TB spacer with stock injectors, and he saw no change in performance or economy.

ya, mine is the same way. you can add more clutch discs to the stock LSD to give it as much bite as you want. you can even make it (nearly) a spool! check this link: http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tp...901#92710653901

an open diff has no mechanism to prevent a wheel from spinning faster than the other. effectively, an open diff has a breakaway torque of 0lb-ft.

because he wants to

they must've also had the "driver mod." i'm still working on mine.

check the check valve in the fitting which connects the vacuum line from the intake to the booster housing (of course, check the entire vacuum line as well). air should flow through it in only one direction. it's rare for the booster itself to fail, especially on a vehicle as new as yours.

after you shut the engine off, there is no vacuum. you can pump the brakes once or twice before losing all pressure in the booster. maybe you've already exhausted the stored vacuum in the booster (by hitting the brakes with the engine off), by the time you try to start it again.

it's not that someone designed it to operate that way; it's the LAWS OF PHYSICS that decided that. the LAWS OF PHYSICS make it choose the tire with least traction.

that's why the trucks lean out when you add a TB spacer. perhaps you should take your nose out of the books and stick them under a few hoods.

2wd is still 2wd...

it is illegal in ALL 50 STATES to remove an emissions control device that came factory-equipped on the vehicle. simply because your county does not test for these parts does not mean it's legal to remove it. anyway, like stated above, an EGR valve should be shut at idle. if you have a crappy idle, get a better tune and/or fix your EGR. removing the EGR won't hurt anything, so that's another option if it is the EGR that's causing your driveability issues. manually actuating the EGR valve won't prove/disprove if it's seating shut at idle. the smallest amount of bypass will still affect your idle.

did you fail your high school physics?

i'm not familiar with the VG30I but if it is indeed a TBI engine, then a TB spacer will work. for best effect, a TB spacer should be used in conjunction with higher capacity/overclocked injectors.

on a true TBI engine (fuel is injected at the actual throttle body), a throttle body spacer can improve performance when coupled with bigger injectors. it was a common/cheap mod on the TBI sbc350. on a VG nissan, it's pointless.

if you don't even know what the name is, perhaps you should leave it alone.

yes and yes.

our trucks are slow, and will always be slow. some people just won't accept that fact.

you would pollute more. EGR only opens when you're cruising (highway driving). so if you want that extra horsepower when you've got your cruise control set at 65mph, by all means - disconnect your EGR. have fun getting the truck inspected.

well said. but alas, a reworked VG will probably still be only as powerful as a stock VQ, but arguably at the same or higher cost.

there are no supporting mods for nonexistent horsepower. there is no need for an upgraded ignition system if you don't have an upgraded fuel system. even still, upgrade both systems without necessity, and you will still see no power gains. (what good is extra fuel/spark if you don't have extra air?) the only situation that warrants fuel/ignition upgrades are when you already have a significant power increase (forced induction, nitrous, etc.). simply installing bigger wires or high-performance plugs will do nothing for an engine that is not modified. it will give you the capacity for increased power, but they themselves will not increase your power. save your money and just get NGK platinum or iridium plugs, and OEM-spec plug wires.

hot exhaust is an inert gas and will not burn. the air/fuel mixture will and does burn at several 1000F hotter than exhaust gases. it effectively leans out the AFR, but not by fuel starvation or air over-supply. it dilutes the AFR with an inert gas. EGR doesn't operate under high-load situations so it doesn't affect peak performance. if you're getting on it, the EGR will be off.