alexrex20

tekaz, how much do you have invested in this oil relo kit, so far? that's a beautiful setup! and what's this 'blizzard' thing you speak of? i've never heard of it...

damn, i got ninja'd. twice.

it allows you to start the truck without pressing the clutch pedal. the brake light turns on to remind you to put your left foot on the brake. this feature was intended for tricky engine starts while on the trail, perhaps uphill. by not requiring you to press the clutch, it allows your left foot to control the brake as your right foot controls the gas. done right, you can prevent the truck from rolling backwards on a steep uphill climb (after you've stalled it), while at the same time giving it gas. i'm not sure if you can use it in 2WD or in 4HI. it may only be available in 4LO.

ya same here. i have to put the shock on the ground and put all 175lb of my weight into it, just to get them to slowly compress. if i were you, i'd get the bad shock replaced.

my bilstein gas shocks are almost impossible to compress by hand, but both fully extend (albeit very slowly) while at rest. do the rancho shocks have the option to be recharged?

if you cruise at 75-80mph with 4.6s, you will see a difference in mpg. i just drove 90mi; the first half was with the hubs locked, and the engine had a hard time maintaining 75-80mph, especially on the hills (lots of downshifting). unlocked, the speed was maintained effortlessly, with minimal downshifting.

i would just check all your weather stripping, door seals, and window seals. if it as leaking from the hole in your roof, i think the leaking/water damage would be more pronounced.

what do you mean by stripped? is the head of the bolt rounded off, or is the thread itself stripped inside the frame? if the head is rounded off, i would just take a socket and hammer it onto the bolt. make sure it's a very tight fit, but not so tight that it cracks your socket. impact sockets are a softer metal, so i would use them if possible. it's up to you to gain access to that bolt though, lol. if the thread is stripped, you can try sticking a straight-edge screwdriver (or pry bar, or anything that fits) under the bolt head and pry against it. by adding pressure, it can help any remaining threads grab onto something to start backing out the bolt.

temperature*

if it clicks when you try and start it, it means the pinion is not being thrown out to engage the flex plate/flywheel. it's either not receiving enough current or is being blocked by debris. if the circuit was dead, it would not click.

i use Hella 500 and 500FF. they're cheap and available at wal-mart, but work great for the money. i'm also not too worried about breaking one because they're cheap enough to replace and not cry about it.

pour some water on all the suspected spots and back trace the leak.

well there shouldn't be fluid in the booster. are you sure it's not just overfill? is it leaking or a residue?

check your starter cable and connections. if you have a multimeter, check for current draw at the starter (or check for resistance if your meter doesn't measure current). you may be getting the full voltage from the battery, but high resistance will drop your amperage and cause a no-start. of course, check voltage at the battery. also, hit the starter a little harder. rinse it out with a hose if you want. a little water isn't going to hurt it. the sediment is what will give you problems.

time for a new tcase, i'm afraid.

you have a front diff locker, or you have manually locking front hubs? regardless, at least 1 front tire should spin as long as you have at least 1 rear tire spinning. a locking front hub is not a diff locker. the locking hub simply gives you the option of unlocking/locking the wheel/tire to the CV axle. a diff locker locks the left and right CV axles so that they receive equal power, all the time.

if i remember correctly from my '98 pathy, it's the same as my '00 pathy: you can only adjust the vertical aim. to do this, you're supposed to use a specialty tool, but a narrow straight-edge screwdriver will work just as well; the longer the better. take a flashlight and look straight down from above your headlight. there will be a little slot with guide tabs and a metal cog thingy. just stick the screwdriver in between the tabs and turn it against the cog. i don't remember which direction makes the headlight assembly go up or down, but you'll figure it out.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7192 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4990

i was surprised to find that shipping for all three R50 skids (front/center/rear) was only $75.

gonna cry about it?

oh. i thought sarcasm was meant to be pleasant. as far as I know, my titan's size was more a hinderance, than the locker and clearance was an advantage. but to each his own. you obviously enjoy your truck, and in the end that's all that matters.

just picture any other lifted Titan you see on the highway. seriously though, my titan was an awesome truck, but I couldn't justify another truck. I'd rather beat on my pathfinder, and the Titan wasn't the most practical daily driver.

yep, that's why I see lots of full-size trucks at moab. gotta love the long overhangs and long wheelbase. the R50s have the underpinnings of a great trail rig, but almost no aftermarket support. but i'm glad you agree the Titan wasn't built for wheeling. unfortunately it took $40k and a Pro-4X for me to figure that out.

depends how quickly you get through the water. it takes a little bit longer to flood the interior, than it does the engine bay.

because it's a full-size truck. but to be more specific, it wasn't made for the type of off-roading we do down here: rocks.