alexrex20

i can see why your search returned no useful results...

UK fog lights on the rear are red, not clear. they look just like a brake light is turned on, and are designed to make you more visible in the fog to drivers behind you.

you're good to go! i can tell by the pic alone that those wheels will clear your hubs. generally speaking, all aftermarket off road wheels (like those streetlocks) is going to have a large center opening to clear manual hubs. what wheels are those, btw?

those wheels will definitely fit, if that is indeed a 6x5.5 bolt circle.

if you're looking for spare wheels from a junkyard, you're really limited. chevy used the same bolt pattern for awhile, but the center opening is not large enough and will need to be bored out. all 6-lug nissans (hardbody, pathfinder, frontier, xterra, etc) were the same bolt pattern until 2005, though among the different models are different backspacing. the R50 runs the least backspacing so you may have fitment issues when swapping to xterra/frontier wheels. for 2005+ nissans you can use titan/armada/qx56 wheels but they will need the center opening bored out as well. toyota 6-lug, isuzu rodeo, and honda passport wheels will fit; the center opening is large enough to clear the hub. of all the changes from the early R50s to the later models, i'm most pissed about the rear shock mounts. on early R50s they use the traditional double-shear lower mount with a 1/2in bolt. on newer models (like yours), it is a single-shear 5/8in stud, so you're very limited when it comes to off-the-shelf shock upgrades. a universal-fit shock will not work on your Pathy without custom fabrication. the VQ35 was introduced in 2001 and it shares no parts with the VG33. the exterior is noticeably different, but my interior (on a '00 SE) isn't much different than my '98 SE was. in fact, when i bought my '00 Pathy it came with no rear headrests, so i used the ones out of my mom's '93 Quest minivan. they fit and match perfectly. for more general parts, you may be able to cross-shop other nissans, not just pathfinders.

good thing you bought the wheels before measuring.

ya, like fueler has. we're not racing so we don't need slots or cross-drilling. regardless, on lower-end products (like stuff for SUVs), they're purely for aesthetic appeal. i just want something with great stopping power and resistance to fade/warping. my current rotors are embarrassingly warped; i think i'll be getting brembo rotors as replacements. OE rotors are expensive already, i may as well spend the extra bucks for some real quality stuff.

for our trucks, i'd prefer the brembo solid-face vented rotors.

it all depends on the wattage of the lamps. if they're less than 65W/ea, then you should be safe(ish).

colbywan

you'll need to bore the center opening, and will probably need wheel spacers.

you should be fine, but if they will warranty them then i don't see why you shouldn't. i'm not sure if Ranchos can be run without them, but i know tons of shocks are designed to not use shock boots.

idk if he already sold it, but he's had it on eBay a few times in the past few months.

yes, you should definitely run them through a relay, and use the switch only to open/close the relay. on my four roof lights, i was running them through one relay and 18ga wire. that gauge wire is only rated for 13A and i was running 220W/13V=17A through them. i was popping fuses and the wires were very hot to the touch. you can imagine the damage i'd do if i was running that kind of current through the factory switch... melted wires behind the dash FTL! (i actually wired my lights up with 12ga wire, but the supplied relay connector already had 18ga wire so effectively, the entire circuit would have to bottleneck into 18ga.)

am not

hopefully you meet your pre-order minimum, steve. i really want to see this happen... because the money i saved up for the upper/lower links is now going towards a rear locker! from the looks of it, though, this will happen and i'll be able to order these in the near future.

i do 30k miles a year on my pathy, not including road trips.

wtf?!

supply is your power and load is your fog lamp. earth is just a ground for the switch. can you be more specific about how you are wiring the fogs? it sounds like you're trying to splice into the original fog lamp wiring, so you can keep functionality of your stock switch, but also be able to override with your own switch...?

you obviously never been/seen stuck in the sand.

a hub takes 5-10min, and a CV axle would take 30-40min. both jobs need minimal tools. a hub is far easier to replace than a CV axle; i'm just saying that a CV axle swap is certainly doable on the trail. if he's wondering which would break first, then i'd rather it be the breakable splines or the CV axle - in that order. breakable splines can be replaced in a matter of minutes (in many cases without removing the wheel). if you don't have said splines, then a broken CV axle can be dealt with by unlocking the hub, until you get to a suitable location for repair.

air in the line would cause overall brake suckiness, not a pull to one side. like someone said above, a pull to the right would probably mean your left brakes are not functioning properly. check the slide pins to verify they're not seized; verify the caliper piston is not seized. you can even check your rear brakes if you want. if you blew an outer axle seal, your drum would be full of axle grease, causing them to not work well or at all. any offset in left/right brake balance will cause a pull during braking.

a CV axle isn't much harder to replace on the trail than a hub...

i just use the Rain-X wipers. they work great in the rain - we don't have salt/snow here - and last forever. i've also tried those expensive Michelins and they didn't withstand the Houston heat very well. they didn't even last a year.

do they also use diesel in their gasoline trucks?