alexrex20

a caliper rebuild is pretty straightforward. it should be pretty much the same as the single-piston ford you found the how-to on. it only gets tricky when you have fixed calipers (ours are floating), or on rear calipers with integral manual parking brakes. but why do you want to rebuild your calipers? if it ain't broke, don't fix it! heck, don't even replace them. if it were me, i'd get the remanufactured calipers instead of a rebuild kit. they're only $24/ea more than the rebuild kit. that's not a lot of money considering the time and effort required to rebuild a 2-piston brake caliper. don't be discouraged when it comes to rear drums. just remember how everything came apart, and it will go right back together. it's very straightforward, and obvious when you didn't do it right. a good way to help yourself is to take pictures of the setup before you start, or to label the components as you disassemble. unless you know for sure the CV axle is still in good shape, i wouldn't bother with the boot replacement. you're doing the same amount of work to install the boot, as with an entire axle replacement. i say spend the extra $45, get the lifetime warranty, and replace the entire axle. it's just as easy, if not easier, because you don't have to deal with all the axle grease.

3-4 clicks should be ok. there are no hurricanes or tornadoes in new jersey.

maybe you should take it to the dealership. sounds serious.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867

can you build a custom set for me?

all this trouble for rear discs?

more power!!!

on an R50 there's a ring on the backside that you need to twist off the assembly, like 02silverpathy suggested. it's a similar mechanism to the twist-lock fitting for brake/signal bulbs.

http://www.tiregate.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1068 it eats up just as much departure angle as the one in australia, is much cheaper, and easier to install/uninstall.

it's not wrecked, but it was just in an accident and has lots of body damage. insurance might total it, though... :dunno: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...st&p=414849

any updates? i'm looking to start my own SAS on my wrecked Pathy...

SERIOUSLY? FIVE YEARS OLD...

if you've verified you have power at the fuse block, power at the motor, and proper resistance at the motor, it could still be wiring. did you check your ground at the motor, or did you use the battery/frame for the ground during testing? also, check for voltage drop at the motor when you actuate the switch. no voltage drop would indicate a dead relay, failure to ground, or an open switch. i don't know if your circuit uses a relay, but i imagine it does; check that also. it seems more likely to be the wiring and not the switch, imo.

all of the gained hp would be a result of cooler intake air temperature. the extra volume is still after the MAF and before the injectors, so the computer couldn't care less if there was X more volume, or Y more volume. this sounds like a great easy-to-install mod for you VQ guys. the concept is proven and has been around for a long time in marine applications, where the intake (and exhaust) manifolds are water-cooled. in this application, you obviously won't have the same percentage gain, but the part should be reasonably affordable so even 5hp gained makes it worthwhile.

do i still make you cry, GPG?

what he means is the cam that's on the throttle body, that the throttle cable (and cruise control cable) is attached to. you would only find the part on a cruise control-equipped vehicle, but you could mount directly to the throttle cable cam. if you have The Battery to run pure battery while winching, then that's the best idea. the downside is that you could run your battery down to the point where you can't start your car. if you keep the vehicle running, you may burn up your alternator (not that probable), but at least you know you can drive away if you manage to unstuck yourself or whomever you're helping.

you can always just work the throttle to increase rpm, if you're in a idle situation. or, you could get an idle-up controller which electronically raises and holds your idle. max amperage is a better selling point than idle amperage, in the same way that max horsepower is better than idle horsepower.

i'm sure dealership to dealership will have lots of differences, but at my dealership, they specifically told me about the lifetime warranty, and that if it doesn't lock, they'll replace it for free. i told them how it was damaged (so it would be my fault, technically), but i remember him saying, "if it doesn't lock, it doesn't lock, and we'll warranty it." he did ask lots of questions like, "are you sure you're using the right buckle?" and "have you tried flipping the latch around and trying both directions?" but in the end, he still never looked at the part and gave me a brand new buckle from behind the counter. i was very surprised at their willingness to help; it's very unlike a dealership to not try to steal your money.

the cut-in rpm is the speed at which the alternator starts taking from the battery. that means it can also start charging. so basically, the cut-in speed is that when the alternator begins to charge the battery(s).

to verify, you tested the alternator on your '98 VG33 Pathfinder? do you foresee any issues on a 99.5+ R50? what is your time frame for accepting orders, and how do you want to go about it? PayPal?

yes, nissan has a lifetime warranty on all safety restraints. i went to get a new rear buckle, and told the dealership that my friend's dog chewed up the buckle so it's hit-and-miss when the buckle actually locks. even still, they just sent me to the parts department and they gave me a new seat belt. the guy said they replace seat belts "no questions asked." they didn't even ask for the old one.

i'm interested, but would love to see final/installed pics before i commit to anything.

that's what you thought about manual seats.

that kinda defeats your whole weight-saving thing...

he meant oil change, because that's obviously what this thread is discussing.