alexrex20

you should be fine, but if they will warranty them then i don't see why you shouldn't. i'm not sure if Ranchos can be run without them, but i know tons of shocks are designed to not use shock boots.

idk if he already sold it, but he's had it on eBay a few times in the past few months.

yes, you should definitely run them through a relay, and use the switch only to open/close the relay. on my four roof lights, i was running them through one relay and 18ga wire. that gauge wire is only rated for 13A and i was running 220W/13V=17A through them. i was popping fuses and the wires were very hot to the touch. you can imagine the damage i'd do if i was running that kind of current through the factory switch... melted wires behind the dash FTL! (i actually wired my lights up with 12ga wire, but the supplied relay connector already had 18ga wire so effectively, the entire circuit would have to bottleneck into 18ga.)

i have a Charge TTi Leatherman, like the one pictured in the first post. i have too many other knives to list, and most aren't that special anyway. i keep a Leatherman Steens (S30V hunting knife with gut hook and bone saw) in my Pathy. on my person, i usually have my 'gentleman's knife,' a Kershaw Nakamura with a VG10-clad blade. i don't recommend the Steens as a hunting knife, btw. it's got a great blade and great features, but it is effectively a folder and that makes it really difficult to clean after a good blood bath.

am not

hopefully you meet your pre-order minimum, steve. i really want to see this happen... because the money i saved up for the upper/lower links is now going towards a rear locker! from the looks of it, though, this will happen and i'll be able to order these in the near future.

i do 30k miles a year on my pathy, not including road trips.

wtf?!

supply is your power and load is your fog lamp. earth is just a ground for the switch. can you be more specific about how you are wiring the fogs? it sounds like you're trying to splice into the original fog lamp wiring, so you can keep functionality of your stock switch, but also be able to override with your own switch...?

you obviously never been/seen stuck in the sand.

a hub takes 5-10min, and a CV axle would take 30-40min. both jobs need minimal tools. a hub is far easier to replace than a CV axle; i'm just saying that a CV axle swap is certainly doable on the trail. if he's wondering which would break first, then i'd rather it be the breakable splines or the CV axle - in that order. breakable splines can be replaced in a matter of minutes (in many cases without removing the wheel). if you don't have said splines, then a broken CV axle can be dealt with by unlocking the hub, until you get to a suitable location for repair.

air in the line would cause overall brake suckiness, not a pull to one side. like someone said above, a pull to the right would probably mean your left brakes are not functioning properly. check the slide pins to verify they're not seized; verify the caliper piston is not seized. you can even check your rear brakes if you want. if you blew an outer axle seal, your drum would be full of axle grease, causing them to not work well or at all. any offset in left/right brake balance will cause a pull during braking.

a CV axle isn't much harder to replace on the trail than a hub...

on another forum i frequent, they setup a monthly donation subscription of $5/mo. i think that's well within everyone's budget. the best part for me is that the subscription automatically deducts $5 from my PayPal account every month. such a feature would be great on this forum. in fact, if this is implemented, i'd gladly subscribe to a $10/mo donation.

i just use the Rain-X wipers. they work great in the rain - we don't have salt/snow here - and last forever. i've also tried those expensive Michelins and they didn't withstand the Houston heat very well. they didn't even last a year.

do they also use diesel in their gasoline trucks?

better get this done in time for barnwell

i'd kill for this one: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/alexf20c/i4.jpg but not for this one: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2370/159081..._498ea224c8.jpg

i'm gonna modify my front fenders like this Xterra: ...also, remove my rear fender flare and maybe trim the fender, to fit 33s with no lift.

well we don't all have WD21s, do we?

coins

you shouldn't need a spring compressor to remove install rear coils. just disconnect the shocks at the lower mounts, and disconnect the track bar on the axle side.

oh. a cold front just blew in and the high today is 67F, or about 19C.

switch that puppy to a manual-shift TX10 it's not practical or feasible to put in some 'crawler gears.' i don't even think a set is available.