alexrex20

yes, it should. the only way it wouldn't is if you're parked on a 50% grade when you drain your fluid. ...in which case, you might only drain out 97%.

^^^ x 1000 i stay away from brands like TripleFire and Bosch Platinum, and anything aftermarket really. Just use OEM and you'll get the best performance. Don't try to save a few bucks by getting the $2 plugs. Spend the extra $20-40 for OEM and you won't regret it. They offer better performance, better fuel economy, and longer life.

the FSM recommends AT/MT fluid change every 15k miles.

AT and MT fluids capacities are a bit different overall, and are different again when you do a flush. when you drain an AT, you aren't emptying the torque converter so you won't be emptying the full capacity. regardless, the MT calls for 10-3/4 pints, not quarts. MTs typically have less fluid than an AT.

you can buy just the fronts, or just the rears. they do it that way so you can mix/match their many different coils to the needs of your vehicle. it's all on their website.

back to the original topic... Dean is right about shifting it FIRMLY and QUICKLY into and out of 4LO. you don't necessarily have to be fully stopped to do it, but the transmission should definitely be in neutral, with your foot off the gas. if you shift it slowly, it will grind. just push hard and quick and the shifter, and it will go into gear. when i shift into and out of 4LO, i just put the transmission in neutral, slow to at least ~5mph and then shift.

like i said, i think it's just the very low angle in that pic that makes it look awkward to me. that doesn't mean i'm not jealous of it. looking forward to seeing the finished product with your tire carrier!

the bottom edge of the side wing goes up, then it comes back down. should be a great anchor to get hung up on the rocks!

i think an NPORA sticker would be even more effective advertisement for our forum. here's to hoping we can get some stickers made with our new, nifty logo! to the powers that be, do post up if funds are needed to get the stickers jump started.

Heh, i've explored the idea of leaving notes on certain nissans. like you mentioned, it may be a bad thing if we leave it on non-enthusiast vehicles, but i only planned on leaving the notes on trucks which were obviously off-road enthusiasts. i've left notes on xterras and a frontier, for our local Nissan club, but never for NPORA. it's rare to see a done-up pathy.

i don't think it would be a bad idea. if they're a nissan enthusiast they may not mind it so much. i know i would not mind if people approached me to ask to join their club. the only problem i see is that many people - myself included - usually don't read whatever note was left on their windshield/mirror; although sometimes i do take a quick glance to make sure it's not a parking ticket. anyway, i like this idea but it is more hassle than i want to deal with. i don't want to print and cut out business cards from normal paper. that would just seem tacky and cheap, and i think it would give the forum a bad image if we started handing out cheesy business cards. let me know what everyone decides.

your truck doesn't go past 4000rpm and you're worried about your subs?

or 0.000000000110912651 light years

700mi from San Fran to Seattle would make it a 1400mi round trip, not 14,000. you had a typo of "14000" in your post.

1400*

we did 6200mi in 2wks.

unless you've got some big huge tires on there, there shouldn't be a problem.

i like the way you think. this is the best way to learn! good luck and keep us updated.

the 99.5+ R50s required the same 100mm center opening to clear the hubs, so these wheels should fit a '95.

i forgot that you had a VQ, so my prices were off. did you check rockauto.com? also, i don't know anything about the PS pump on a VQ so it may not be the exact same; the pulley may be pressed on. the same basic principle still applies though - replace the drive shaft's front oil seal.

before you start blindly replacing more parts, and wasting more money, you need to first properly diagnose it. but if your mechanic doesn't hear it, when you can hear it, then i'd say you're being a bit anal.

on my '00 the antenna goes down when you switch to CD.

the squeaky pulley could be your water pump. check your radiator to be sure you're not empty. if you are, the water pump will squeal from turning when it's dry. if you really want to pinpoint the squeal, hit each pulley with some spray lubricant. when the sound goes away, you found the culprit.

after i sunk my pathfinder, i had to replace my power steering pump (among many other things). i got my pump from a pick-a-part for $29 + $3 for 30-day warranty. if you want to try to rebuild it yourself, you can get a seal kit for about $15. if it really is coming from the shaft behind the pulley, it may be an easy fix. you need to remove the pulley, remove the snap ring holding the drive shaft, then remove the shaft. there will be an oil seal there, and this would be the one leaking. if that's not the problem, the seal kit will come with all the o-rings, copper washers, and gaskets to do a full rebuild. a remanufactured P/S pump should only cost $150, not including the reservoir. most places will charge you a hefty core charge, though, so be prepared to pay a little extra up front.

backtrace it with your multimeter