alexrex20

were they designed for your truck?

i'm all for zip ties!

if you crawl under the back of your pathy and manually actuate the valve, it's pretty obvious how it works and how you would ghetto rig it. it's much easier than us trying to explain it and then the user try to comprehend and implement it.

a roof rack doesn't affect gas mileage as much as you think. cruising at 65-70mph and not romping on the throttle will save you far more gas than not having a roof basket (compared to having one). i have 4 big roof lights and a roof basket on the top of mine, and i still managed 18.9mpg throughout an entire tank of gas (all highway driving), in my '00 SE with 4.6s. if you shop around, you can find a used or custom roof basket for ~$100, but that's almost being too optimistic. expect to spend anywhere from $200-500 on a new one. there are quite a few members on this forum that use the Dueler A/T Revo and they can't say enough good things about them. the AC springs are almost your only option to replace your worn out coils, other than replacing with new OE coils. the other option is the OME coil. the AC coils generally lift the front end 2-3in and the OME coils about 1-2in. manual locking hubs are recommended to reduce wear/tear on your CV axles, but are not required. if your lower ball joints were bad, you'd experience more symptoms than just a pop under initial braking. it could be your strut mount (though you'd also hear a noise going over bumps), control arm bushings, sway bar bushing, sway bar end link, etc. or it could be that flashlight under your seat rolling forward and hitting the frame.

just ignore the third prong (ground) on your new switch. your circuit has its own ground so you don't need to ground the switch. to check which wire is which, you can use your voltmeter and check for voltage at each wire. your supply/power will have ~12V; your load side will have continuity to ground.

if you meant that custom one in the pic above, then i didn't have it made. he was asking too much for a bumper that wasn't winch-capable; it didn't have the best mounting setup either.

yes, those are the new recovery points. they hang down pretty low, and are always hitting the rocks. but they're pretty stout and have withstood a lot of abuse and a few hard yanks. is that your pathy in the pic? got any better pics?

no.

how about now?

this is texas.

still not yet?

706cid alky blown

i know him, but he's just an acquaintance. that's a TX King of the Hill car. they race 1/8mi and all have to be street-legal and streetable. of course, their definition of streetable is probably a bit different than ours. the bosses just want to make sure they all have cooling systems, doors, windows, etc. some of them even have AC! his biggest complaint is the blind spot in front of him lol

street legal and it runs 6s at 220mph

get one of these: at least it's functional

i wouldn't drive 3hrs for some 16.5 MTs, unless they were nearly-new TSLs or MTRs or KM2s. like 88path said, it's almost impossible to find a 16.5in rim on a 6x5.5 lug pattern. older chevy's ran 16.5s, but they were almost always an 8-lug. with that said, i was at the auto salvage today and saw a set of 16.5in 6-lug rims. if they didn't have so much backspacing, i would've bought them - they're that hard to find.

am i the only one that noticed the big mound of dirt stuck in 180sx's subframe?

actually............... you'll notice on lots of jaguars and mercedes and bmw that they have their rear fog light on. it will look like they have a brake lamp that's stuck on.

i run (2) 100W aircraft landing lights and (2) 55W Hella fog lamps through my stock fog light switch. (at 13V that's 24A of current!) i haven't melted anything yet lol. makes it hard to follow my advice when i don't follow it myself. if my lights have to stay on for a sustained period, i use my roof lights - (4) 55W Hellas on two circuits, each with their own relay. come to think of it, the only real purpose my bumper lights serve me is to flash/blind the oncoming drivers with their hi-beams on...

HE NEEDS THEM TO FIT IN A CHEVY MALIBU

...

^^^ that's what i'm thinking.

you should get shocks fitted to your pathfinder.

doubt it. i stuffed my 31s as deep into the fenders as possible, and the shock measured 16in eye-to-eye. stock shocks on my '00 Pathy are 14in collapsed, 24in extended. my bilsteins measure 16in collapsed, 26in extended. that means i have the same up travel, and 2in more down travel.

20in extended is too short for an R50. stock is 24in.