alexrex20

even a 31in tire will rub the track bar.

true. if it weren't for the need to convert to steering box, i probably would have SAS'd my R50 after the accident. the steering is just another major hurdle i wasn't prepared to deal with.

i couldn't agree more with Dean. it is a huge PITA to put a spare tire on the roof. my spare tire is 70lbs plus 25lbs for the 16x7 steelie, and i almost killed myself trying to get it up there by myself. i was trying to balance the awkward shape above my head, while not getting myself dirty, and not dropping it on the window. BUT... a lot of us are limited with our options. a 33in tire will surely not fit underneath (neither will a 32in), nor is it very practical to keep it in the cabin. not only does it eat up nearly all the cargo space, but i certainly don't want to load a flat tire back in the trunk, full of mud and dirt and sand. without a rear tire carrier, we're very limited on our tire muonting options. 100lbs on the roof does hurt the COG, but i don't plan on even approaching the Pathy's rollover point anytime soon.

i'm more scared of skunks. they're brave, stubborn, and if you get too aggressive in trying to shoo them away, they'll spray you!

i do a fair share of primitive camping and backpacking, and prefer the tent to the trunk any day. i have a pair of Marmot Titan tents and a MSR Hubba Hubba (all double-wall 2-person); this is what i use when it's just me and the dog. with company, i have a Bibler Bombshelter (4-person) that's a great 4-season tent, but a bit too hot for most of Texas camping. my Marmot is aging but still a lightweight at 5lbs, and am looking to upgrade to the new Mountain Hardwear Carbon Reflex 2 ultralight (2.5lbs). like someone already pointed out, camping out of a tent does not require you to rearrange/empty your truck's cargo just to have a good night's sleep. a decent tent should only take one person 5-10min to erect. that, and the tent has much better air circulation and bug/weather protection than a truck with open windows.

that's cheaper than a Yakima MegaWarrior, but a lot more than my Rola Vortex... it's up to you.

when you index your spark plugs, you point the side electrode (the little arm thingy) down towards the combustion chamber. you're trying to achieve optimum spark and burn, not necessarily aim it toward the exhaust valve. on a VG33, the spark plug is basically atop the combustion chamber, so indexing the plugs is even more ineffective.

i have a complete 2000 Nissan Pathfinder service manual (best type, wouldn't you say?) in PDF format on my computer at home. i will upload and host it when i get home, and send you a link tomorrow. bump this thread or PM me if i haven't gotten you the link by the evening. the PDF format is indeed on a computer, but is easily printed out. i actually prefer it this way. i navigate the manual with Adobe Reader, find what i need and print out just those pages. the PDF files are very intuitive because they all hotlink among themselves for easy browsing.

lol @ $100,000 in fines and 1yr in prison

because the WD21s cant stay in their own section.

camber doesn't affect CV wear. you probably won't have camber issues with a strut spacer.

no, shocks with too much travel (too long) will hyperextend the rear suspension, causing the rear coil to drop out. OME shocks will not do that.

shocks do not support weight. they only dampen the up/down movements.

don't lie, fueler. you have OME rear shocks and they're not long enough to allow the rear coils to fall out.

^^^ True. Boston, you should've posted this thread 2 weeks ago, before i installed my AC coils.

you don't need super-fancy LEDs for the high-mount rear brake light. superbrightleds.com sells them for $1.69/ea.

actually i have the AC lift with michelin all-terrain tires, and my 4WD works, so i'm one better than you.

2WDs don't have front CV axles.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867

i thought all these questions were answered in your first thread?

from my many junkyard runs, i've noticed that nissan used the same basic accessory switches for ALL their vehicles. my in-cab winch controls consist of a main arming switch which used to be a fog light switch in a maxima, and a line-in/out switch which used to be a seat heater switch in a QX4. it works great because it's triplue-pull/throw (for line-in, stationary, line-out). the backlight obviously only turns on when line is coming in or going out; the arming switch is backlit as well to easily indicate a live circuit. it all looks very OEM! (of course, the seat heater and fog light logos have all been taken off.)

you can only do a 2-wheel alignment - they align the front to the rear, because nothing can be adjusted on the rear. on the front, only toe is adjustable from the factory. the camber bolts allow camber adjustment; caster is not adjustable. don't let the salesman bull@!*% you about needing this or that. all your vehicle needs is a 2-wheel alignment, and you can tell them you bought camber bolts for them to use. how much did they charge to assemble the struts? also, post the full-size pic of your pathy.

i'd definitely buy it for $2k.

use a small vice grips on the vertical rail to hold the window snugly in place. you can even put the door panel back on and drive it all ghetto-rigged. can't do that with a 2x4. according to autozone.com, the front and rear window motors should be interchangeable; they are the same part number.

typically, the hi-beam is a halogen