alexrex20

the nitto terra grapplers are garbage in the mud and sand, but good in the rain and on the highway. i swapped them for non-revo duelers within 5k miles. the ltx a/t2 is the best tire I've ever tried, to be honest.

it's a bit naive and irresponsible to compare a truck to a mountain bike. the bike has individually controlled brakes, where the truck's brakes aren't infinitely variable. moreover, our trucks have rear drum brakes which by application receive only a small percentage of braking pressure. regardless of weight transfer, on a disc/drum setup the front will always be doing more work. forget your bike, slam on your truck brakes and see which lockup first.

the problem i have with rear-only (1-channel) ABS is that it really never turned on! front brakes do the vast majority of your braking, so if you ever had to slam on the brakes, it's the front brakes that will lock up first. in fact, unless you're in the snow/ice/mud/sand, you can almost be sure that you'll never lock up the rear tires. it is good to have rear ABS, if nothing at all, because rear ABS will at least make you lose control in only one direction. if you were to lock up all four tires, you would lose control and be spinning in circles. so, just because you never felt them work, does not mean they did not work. it just means that you were never so cocky screwed that your rear ABS engaged. and that noise that you're hearing is the noise that all ABS systems make. the point of an ABS system is to allow the tires to maintain traction by preventing them from locking up. (the coefficient of static friction is greater than that of sliding friction; you have more grip when you're not skidding, obviously.) to do this, the ABS pump will pulse the brakes hundreds of times per second, effectively never giving the tires the chance to really lock up. we as humans could pulse the brakes maybe 2 times per seconds - 3 times if we're lucky. so not only does an ABS system have the ability to infinitely pulse the brakes until traction has been regained, but it can also unerringly complete the task. not all of us have the know-how or self-control to pulse the brakes in an emergency situation. but back to the noise: the noise and vibration in the pedal is feedback from the ABS pump doing its thing - pulsing hundreds of times per second.

i think the changeover may have been in 99.5. my 00 has much more stopping power than my 98 ever did, and has the same front brakes as shown in the pic of laxman's 01. :02:

lol, i didnt know the center caps fit over the manual hubs. i wonder if it'd be more hassle to have them on, though? EDIT: well i'll be damned! they do fit, lol. oh well, i think i already threw away the front center caps. as for the wheels sticking out further... if i didn't have the factory fender flares, my tires would stick out like a mother. as it sits now, the tires line up flush with the outer edge of the fender flares. and i'm only running 265/70/16 michelin LTX A/T2. laxman, did your rig come with those Duelers, or you put them on? are they the Revos? if so, how do you like them? also, when the hell are you going to mount the X rims on your new truck?!

who here doesn't like pathfinders? i haven't gotten that vibe from anyone in this thread. all they're looking for is a bit of respect from fellow SUV owners...

to remove studs, you use the 'double nut' method. it's pretty simple. you just thread 2 nuts onto the stud, then snug them up against each other. then you use an open-end wrench on the first nut to remove the stud. by tightening the 2 nuts into each other, they also put pressure and grab onto the stud, so when you wrench on the first nut, it backs out the stud. installation is the opposite.

not to thread jack, but what's everyone's opinion on bedlining the interior floor? i want to do the floor and about 6in up the sides. yay or nay?

fwiw, i didn't change out the studs when i installed my warn hubs. the oem studs were plenty long enough for the supplied washers and nuts. and i was lazy.

funny, that...

lol, do you have to ask?

go to your local auto parts store and see how much it is for a complete rebuilt caliper. on my truck the caliper rebuild kit was $18; for only $29 you could get a complete ready-to-install refurbished caliper. of course, you should first confirm that it is indeed your caliper that's leaking the fluid.

perhaps nissan made it too easy to unplug the rear ABS sensors. the stick on the beach made real short work of it on the last fishing trip. but to add to my first post: ABS will save your ass 9 times out of 10, unless you're pretty damn good at threshold braking, and can unhesitatingly counter-intuitively let off the brakes once you've locked them up, to allow the tires to regain traction. in theory it sounds pretty simple, but most people find it hard to let off the brakes when they're closing in on that ditch or pole or pickup truck at a speed decidedly higher than they'd like. everyone's reaction is to push harder on the brakes; a reaction catered and encouraged by ABS-equipped brakes. disable your ABS at your own risk.

yes, you can just pull the fuse to disable ABS. be sure you "feel the difference" on an empty road or parking lot, because trust me - there is a difference. arguably though, ABS is a hinderance in low-traction situations like mud, snow, wet grass, etc. but is generally a good thing on the street.

man you are such an idiot

they ARE good off road. we just have a lot of fanbois on this forum that refuse to believe there are better SUVs than pathfinders, within its respective market. i'm sure we can all agree that toyota knows how to go wheelin'

i agree with everything you said (fueler is an idiot), except for the part about 4Runners.

you give them too much credit. they broke 2 torque wrenches trying to break bolts loose, and needed a spring compressor for the stock rear coils.

i have the LTX A/T2 on mine and they are awesome. they're a great highway tire (though they do make a little bit of noise, but more of a hum, not a groan) and still work exceptionally well off-road. they look good, as well. the major downside is the price, but i got the hookup from my buddy at discount tire. they're priced comparable to BFG A/Ts but IMO, the BFGs suck on the highway and are even worse in the rain.

you should go for at least a 2in thick coat.

so you have big guys that can't break the bolts loose with a breaker bar, so yall decide to use a torque wrench? that's pretty stupid, if you ask me.

who spit in your cereal? jeeps may have toys r us buttons but those buttons still engage diff lockers. they're far more capable than a pathfinder so don't kid yourself. i would gladly take a rubicon or diesel overland over a new V8 4x4 R51. the nissan sells for 45k, the same as a grand cherokee CRD Overland. which is more capable? -the jeep. i dare venture to say that people who buy a cherokee are more interested in crawling at 0.9mph than they are in doing 90mph down the highway.

this is &^%*ing hilarious if it's true. actually, it's hilarious even if it's not true!!

hehe, admittedly, i've been looking for a 2dr WD21 for the longest time now. i just can't seem to find any in 4x4 and good condition. the frame and ease of modification definitely leaves me wanting when i price out aftermarket parts for my unibody Pathy. here she is at the car wash. i backed it onto the curb to get most of the water to go to the front, so i could vacuum it out. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/alexf20c/DSC06109.jpg